docc

That will require removing and replacing the bezel. Perhaps when Joel Levine does this, he would address those mounting studs? Otherwise, why not straighten them up, loosen them slightly and apply the JBWeld from the outside? Mine was addressed like this and never failed.

Agreed. I would be inclined to steer these mounts into alignment, and JBweld them to the cup. Not sure why the PO would tape off the bulb connector. Looks like you'll need a bulb socket to restore that illumination, @Gmc28 . . .

Presently, my CO is set + 11. It got there while I was chasing another problem (minor air leaks around the vacuum taps) and is entirely arbitrary. I thought about putting back to zero, but it just seems rather right. Feels good. And spells "nevele " backward. I can tell you the factory setting of minus 27 totally sucked and I chased that mess for years until @andy york made it right. Also, I have observed very high, double-digit positive CO Fuel Trim settings from attempts to try and correct something else. Which it won't.

I just looked at the feeds at the cylinder head, itself. Looks like I could get on those with a thin "open-end" 14mm spanner if the tank and airbox were removed . . .

You are speaking of the fastener that holds the double banjo fitting into the front of cylinder valley between the cylinders? The one on myV11 uses a 13mm spanner to turn it. I just put a common 10º offset ring spanner ("box end wrench") on mine from the left side ahead of the cylinder. And found it just barely tight! Gave it a snug and finished tightening with another ring spanner that has a 30mm offset. Both spanners gave me enough swing and leverage to turn the fastener. Perhaps the earlier 1100 Sport-i differs? Maybe @Pressureangle will come along to chime in . . . In the meantime, thanks @John Neeson for bringing this loose fastener to my attention!!

So, @Chuck, the question has already come up . . . Are there any unspoken-for pieces available from the Quartermaster?

The thread diameter of the part that the knob's shaft threads onto looks like 2.5mm to me.

NGK BPR6-ES

Have you checked the TPS for a smooth progression of changing resistance as it is slowly opened and closed ( no "jumps" or "dips") as Tinus89 did above? A faulty TPS can be maddening . . .

Whatever. Cheer up y'all. I'm sure these ladies ain't singin' our song . . .

Know that "resistive" current ratings will over-rate the relay for "continuous" use. The "Picker Components" relay looks like a contender, although the NC continuous current rating is not revealed in the data sheet. The Panasonic, we have evaluated before. It is a quality 10/20 amp continuous relay. I just would not trust them in 15/25 (NC/NO) V11 circuits. YMMV

That is a very astute observation that this latest ebay listing has the "OMRON" labeling obscured and the declaration, "unbranded." Unlike the relays @Speedfrog posted in December 2021:

Yeah, ink is cheap. Yet, these "may be" the real-deal High Current OMRON. No way to know without prying the case off for a look inside, which likely destroys the part. Respectable, available, alternative High Current relay made by CIT: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cit-relay-and-switch/a11csq12vdc1-5r/12502892

Having experienced this on mySport, it is item #7 on the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist:

The only time I've seen a cap blow off (or once, tore the cap's tip open) was from throttle body imbalance . . .

How does the spark look across the gap? Strong, tight and blue? Or weak. yellow, and weedy?

Pretty sure your US spec V11 didn't come with catalytic converters, this would be a non issue.

Those would look (and sound!) sweeeet on a Rosso Mandello!

This could be a sticking Neutral Switch (located on the left of the gearbox beneath the starter. Often a gearoil change solves this, most often reported with a switch to RedLine ShockProof (I prefer the "LightWeight"/blue). Otherwise, the single female spade connector to the switch, under its rubber boot, is susceptible to connections issues. Clean, crimp, and seal the area with Vaseline® or equivalent. The middle relay could also be suspect (as could be all of the relays, but that is another matter, perhaps). Scud suggested this maintenance procedure.( I concur! ) :

In all fairness, this looks like a nice LongFrame Sport, really pretty clean and original. Yeah, the tail fairing has probably been repainted, but the red and the stripes and "stickers" are pretty tasteful. No, I don't like header wrap, but that is removable and the stainless headers would likely polish up. The VIN does say 2003, but let's accept it as a 2002 "carry-over" (chin-pad tank with external pump/filter and white face Veglia instruments with the challenging "angle drives" and fuzzy-bubbly wrinkle black driveline paint). "Pretty", but less-than-ideal-for-tuning intake filters/"pods" in place of the factory airbox makes one wonder how the "side covers" have been remounted. (Someone saw to it that they are!) All of the Eagle plaques are intact along with the original exhaust, turn signals, full rear fender/lights, and factory shift/brake levers and footpegs. Really the only flaw to the offering is calling it a "Coppa Italia."

So, confirmed that the late V11 with the separate left and right signal indicator lights in the "dash" panel will function with LED turn signal units both front and rear? Special flasher to adjust the rate of the flashing?

Wow, did you swap this hose without pulling the tank?

Can you see the "peg" engaged on your input hub? (Mine appears to have more of the shaft threads showing):

I've lost track of how many times I've seen that for sale. Not rare, and certainly not a Coppa Italia

It never occurred to me the gear whine might be most noticeable on the overrun, engine braking . . .