docc

So, good question: Can this be repaired?

Seems that would have been bolted to the airbox at one time (right front)? No matter where the air is picked up, the sensor would measure the temperature of the air inside the airbox?

So, it looks like your loose connector would plug right into this sensor?

One can hope! https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1226

Dead sexy V11. ✔️ Classic red telephone booth. ✔️ “English “ boozer . . .

Exactly! I recall members with airbox removed fitting the ATS in a 35mm "film canister" (remember those? ) and mounting it in the air stream along the frame spine away from engine heat. Without the ATS, the ECU goes into some default mode. What do you see for Air Temperature in GuzziDiag?

Has the battery been disconnected lately? With the extensive stack of ring terminals, it is very easy to let one slip (either the positive or the ground) and no power to the harness. With two relays, it is quite unlikely that both failed leaving neither a Hi- or Lo- beam. (Notably, the driving light is on an entirely different circuit from the headlights.) Some voltage, or continuity, testing at the switch would rule out a switch or connection failure there . . . [FWIW, the snarky "Why don't you just use the search function, noob ?" that appears de rigueur on every other forum I have ever attempted to interact with is precisely why we will not go there on V11LeMans.com. ]

Those two prototypical V100 EICMA dolls are going to be worth a fortune!

Factory Air Temperature Sensor location (with modified airbox intakes):

Looking like your PO removed the airbox and may have neglected to replace the Air Temperature Sensor.

@dark_bike, a few issues come to mind: 1) Is the replacement harness fused (it should be!)? What is the status of the fuse? 2) Is there one relay or two in the replacement harness? Installing known good relay(s) restores the headlight? 3) There have been reports of a burned out headlamp bulb taking out both filaments (and sometimes the fuse, as well). Verify the bulb is good. 4) Are there any other functions affected (brake light, horn, dash panel oil pressure "warning light" ) ? 5) Your Scura is "Euro spec" with a left hand lamp switch that can turn the headlamp off?

Any way to post a pic of that? (Gallery album works best unless you use a hosting site) . . . [edit: the plugs on the right side that come to mind are the Engine Temperature Sensor on the inboard side of the right head, the TPS on top of the right throttle body, and the (missing?) Air Temperature Sensor that would have been on the right front of the factory airbox . . . ] [edit 2: Is the loose connector 3 pins or 2? Blue or black? Square or oval?]

This may be an opportunity. Where has the air temperature sensor relocated to?

Alright, so, "better" with the Tune-up, CO zeroed. This V11 has the original airbox? New (paper) air filter?

We are here for the discussion, so that kind of response is not going to be a thing here. There is a US alternative for this harness, but let's investigate further . . .

I reckon an aluminum alloy. Damage from the sidestand attachment?

Agreed. NGK BPR6ES are inexpensive. Give her some fresh ones to reflect all of the progress you have made.

Oh! Be it known our engine didn't come from a "tractor" or the "Military Mule!" It started as Ing. Guilio Carcano's hot-rod motor in his (front engine) Topolino . . .

Some thorough discussion from @Lucky Phil:

Outside of the Casper's breakout harness, the VERY BEST thing I ever did to index the TPS baseline was to press the plate firmly closed as in LuckyPhil's "Zip-tie the right throttle body closed." Pressing the plate firmly closed while setting the TPS made a significant difference to my "mapping" and running conditions.

I suppose I always roll my V11 in neutral. Rolled in gear with the clutch disengaged (lever in), the gearbox input hub will be jangling the two friction discs plus the intermediate. As @po18guy suggested, why not roll it in neutral without pulling the clutch lever, @Walterg ? "No noise? No problem."

It is notable that when the clutch is disengaged on the common V11, there are two friction plates and a steel intermediate plate free to rattle around.

From the top surface of the shift lever to the top hole is about 45mm on the original, and 50mm on the Extender replacement

And here is the Scud thread I was thinking of: