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Alright, here is my best shot. The image below is of #7 that I will refer to as the "Fender" (what the tail light and turn signals are bolted to). @p6x's modified #7 has been cut off below the tail light, the #11 "Number Plate Holder" and the Tag Light (not pictured) are both removed from the modified "fender." I am not yet convinced there is enough left of the modified #7 "Fender" to properly re-use. edit: [-> So, upon close consideration, not likely collision or impact related. The broken Support Bracket is not the source of the failure, IMO - it stems from the inexpert modification to the #7 "Fender" which is the mounting structure for the tail/brake light, license tag/number plate, tag light, and turn signals.<-] The image is looking rearward from the front (tire side) of the "Fender" hanging down a few inches from the mounting points. Three pair of fasteners hold this assembly to the #1 Rear Subframe and the #11 Support Bracket. 1) The vertical red lines represent where horizontal #7 "Fender" holes fit over vertical threaded studs extended down from the #1 Rear Subframe and nutted from below (later V11 may have hex-drive bolts installed upward, from below). If these holes are cut off the modified #7 Fender, this is a problem and whole assembly will "cantilever" and fail as described. 2) The blue lines represent the pair of hex drive fasteners that that are engaged from behind , beside the Tag Light (which is likely missing on the modified fender), and are nutted from in front of the support bracket lower tabs through the lower two holes of the #28 "Rear Splash Guard". [This image shows the braces of the 1st Generation Tekno pannier mounts slightly obscuring the lower support bracket tabs.) 3)The yellow arrows indicate the "Nut-Certs" on the upper tabs of the support bracket that are engaged with two screws from the front of the top two holes of the #28 "Rear Splash Guard" (not shown in this image, but shown five posts back as the "The mud guard is broken too.")

Both #7 and #18 are called "number plate holder" in the diagram. I believe you are missing #11 and your #7 has been shortened/ cut off below the number plate. The original fastener system might still be usable. Let me mark up an image, host it, and post it for you . . .

Looking back at your first image, @p6x, we’re there any actual bolts or screws (there should be six fasteners) holding this assembly or just the plastic “zip-tie?”

There are two studs that extend downward at the rear aspect of the long mudguard that carries the lights and license tag. These are capped with two nuts. This adds two more fasteners at the rear and eliminates the cantilever effect. These are obscured by the inner cover. Do you see this part of the retention system?

That, and 1000 more words . . .

All good fun until another wee red corner of a fender butts in at the bottom left . . . Even this guy's Green Egg is red!

@Speedfrog made this current inquiry May 19, 2022, (less than a month ago) after @Onibaka revived this thread. Since then, several members have expressed an interest in the (4th?) run of the Chuck-made LuckyPhil Shift Extender. Thirteen pieces in this count . . . @Speedfrog (x2) @Tomchri (x2) @BramF (x1) @motortouring (x2) @Bingbong (x2) @Kane (x1) @Cold Desert Rat (x1) @Skip (x1) @FuelCooler (x1) Hopefully, these "notifications" will help interested members PM @Chuck to finalize. Thanks, again, Chuck!

Pretty sure I only just asked more questions. On the verge of buying 1000S, I did learn that there were valve size (head) changes. Apparently, the earlier 'large valve' head was "fussy?" And the "medium valve" was considered an improvement? I know, just more questions. There is also the matter of heads used on Sports vs LeMans vs Quota vs "California/EV" . . . Seems there might be quite a variety of 1000 cc Guzzi heads . . . (Waiting for an aficionado to chime in. Like @pete roper . . . .

Yep, that is factory. Good move on the extender!

Ah, okay, just posting on the thread is only "intent." I thought the count had exceeded ten. Get on the stick, y'all! PM @Chuck your delivery address . . .

Da'gum unreliable Italian crap . . .

I am just on the sidelines here, reading and learning some. Just an observation that the spec tire and unpredictable changes without any knowledge or input from the teams looks like shuffling the deck before a hand of high stake cards . . .

The red "thing" in the garage is so blurry, but looks Italian. Alfetta?

IIRC, the 1000 cc square fins had different versions: "large valve", "Medium valve", . . . was there a "small valve?" Pretty sure your Quota heads (valves) are different from the Sport (?)

Let us know if there is room for a longer bolt there.

The tip appears to show the typical taper of starter threads and the bolt looks to be maybe 12mm long. There also look to be unused threads in the bottom of the hole in the casting. I really can't see how that bolt could have even threaded in at all. Measuring the sidestand contraption and bracket, the bolt has to go 20mm before reaching the casting leaving only 10 mm to thread in. I wonder if there is room to install a 40mm bolt there . . .

The "skims" notwithstanding, this is one of the V11's chief Achilles' Heels. As these fasteners loosen over time with use and vibration, the entire Rube Goldberg Sidestand mechanism becomes compromised and vulnerable to failure. This concern is referenced in the "Tank Off Maintenance Checklist." I added this concern, also, to the "Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist." These fasteners of our sidestand bracket do not suffer neglect . . .

FWIW, the bolt shown in this documented sump spacer casting failure looks too short. Certainly not 30mm, and too short to engage all of the threads into the depth of the casting (only about 12mm). Thank you to @EnduroGuzzi for this original (2008) posting and images!

What with these two fasteners having a reputation for loosening and failing, isn't this a proper place for something like LocTite Blue thread locker?

I'm getting M6 x 30 (mm long)/ GU98620330. Still looking for thread pitch . . . [edit: likely thread pitch is 1.0] At this point, you will have to assess if the cast bracket has been deformed. If so, press it (perhaps with heat off the bike) to bring the two fastener bosses back into parallel alignment. Don't expect the bolts to reshape a bent bracket. The sump spacer is at risk of breaking out, here. Also, the large upper bolt has a stunning torque value and is often found loose: 70-75 Nm!

This bad dog/ Achilles' Heel, yes?

PM sent (dibs on the headguards)

Awesome, @MartyNZ ! If you care to share the details of the tools:

Wow! I see a coupl-o' Lucky Phil EZY Glide Fuel Taps coming across the bench . . .

Is the V11 starter a "permanent magnet motor?"