docc

"Y'all come, now! Ya hear?"

We're here to cheer ya up, buddy . . .

Thank you both for the correct contribution. Measuring the actual bolt cross references to @audiomick's link as 8mm x 1,25 thread pitch. The Workshop Manual lists this torque as 25-30 Nm. Original post corrected. My apologies and thank you, all, again for checking the posts here for correctness and accuracy!

Hmmm, I measured the holes in the yoke instead of the bolts, themselves. I will check my work when home in a few hours.... Thanks, @Tomchri!

Ah, yes the cardan shaft yokes should be clamped tightly (at both ends). The 6mm bolts are torqued 8-12 Nm. Correction: 8mm x 1,25 pitch/ torque spec is 25-30Nm. Because of the pinching action, go back and forth between the two until they are torqued the same since tightening one will loosen the other until they are finally the same.

It is hard to see, but is that input shaft movement in and out of the bevel drive or the driveshaft yoke moving on the input shaft?

In the same vein . . . somehow "breeding" could be involved!

The voice of experience! I turned the fan on high and dusted the interior of the cabinet through the top grill. Big cloud of dust! Taking the air hose to my tube amp, next . . . Thanks, @audiomick !

Good point that there is more than one problem at hand. +1 on testing/conditioning/or replacing the battery. While voltage could be "fine", yet the battery will not carry a load, 12.4 volts from an AGM battery is essentially "dead."

Admirable, those that can build their own amps! Speaking of which, I'm sad to see that PhotoBlockit has obstructed @Trevini's contributions to this thread . . .

Okay, okay, I know this is not a tube amp. But last week my trusted thirty-year-old Onkyo stereo amplifier overheated and shut down. The heat sink on the amps was 200ºF! I couldn't touch the top of the amp; figured "She's ded, Jim " . . . After a cool down, she came back on! So, I got a US$22 "computer" fan and set it on top of the stack with some isolation "feet", custom screen attachments, and a dose of wishful thinking . . .

"Crabbing" the SpineFrame may well be an early P.Roper-ism . . . Chocking the front of the bike whilst loosening the front engine mounts and releasing the rear mounts to hoist the rear of the SpinFrame up off the chassis:

Having removed the throttle body "assembly" from mySport, it is best performed with the frame "crabbed." Otherwise, one has to get one of the throttle bodies off the rack in situ. It can be done, but likely to double your vocabulary . . .

Certainly still relevant to the topic, then. Have you seen to the main ground of the negative battery cable to the back of the gearbox?

14.2, but not more than 15.0. This is the Odyssey PC545 range. If you have opted for a non-OEM battery for your V11 SpineFrame, YMMV . . .

FWIW and BTW, since this ongoing charging failure "troubleshooting sequence" does not actually appear to be a "30 amp fuse failure ", the whole sh'bang looks to deserve its own topic . . .

Yep: not charging. Time to check the individual wires and connectors that @gstallons referenced. What is the voltage at the red/black reference wire?

Okay, I forgot your 2003 is a 2002 "carryover." Looking forward to seeing those voltage readings.....

Pretty sure there is no "Charge" or "battery" indicator light on the later V11 SpineFrames. If your V11 has a single turn indicator, there will be a "battery" light in the cluster. Later V11 have left/right turn indicators and the battery/charge light is absent , IIRC. The red/black wire from the regulator connecting into the "brake light" etc is the voltage reference from Relay #2, yes? Watching for @LaGrasta to post that series of voltage readings . . .

Edited my post. Thanks for the input @Tomchri and @guzzigary !

Your 2003 V11 has no "battery" indicator light, correct?

Hmm, could be presumptuous of me to conclude Öhlins suspension equipped V11 SpineFrames also/all had Öhlins steering dampers - perhaps not the Rosso/Nero Corsa? @Tomchri (and others) could take a look at their V11 Corsa and report back?

@Lucky Phil, Thanks for the edit and image of the Öhlins steering damper as supplied on the specific V11 SpineFrame models. If I understand correctly, the factory V11 Guzzi mounting brackets, both bitubo and Öhlins, have solid mounts to the damper body and the "bolt tilt"/dead spot is a non-issue. It is the aftermarket dampers and possibly dampers fitted from other applications that may have the problematic, duplicate bearing on the damper body mount.

Series of voltage readings under various "states" . . . KOEO = Key On/ Engine Off KOER = Key On/ Engine Running (at idle, at 1500 rpm, at 2500 rpm. I would also take one more voltage reading before turning the key on, after the battery has sat quiet for some hours (perhaps six hours or more). . . .

Lulu looks suitably pissed off about the whole thing . . .