docc

Friday afternoon off and friends to meet at our country-store/Best Reuben in the World hangout. On the way home, got this shot of a couple old, greasy smokers parked next to one another . . .

I will venture this is the turn indicator "flasher" unit. "85 c/m" (cycles per minute?)

If you want the front two fuses separate from the fuse block, why not clip the spade connectors off and attach separate ATC fuse holders? But why?

That does look nice! Quite unusual to see the later year's (2003-2004) Sport with the fork mounted headlamp/instruments. Also looks like a genuine JW Speaker LED headlamp.

Yep, it lifts out of the rubber mounts without turning the screws . . . Front two fuses are for the separate fuel injection/ECU harness and suffers from those hidden spade connectors potentially coming loose.

If your missing fuse is #3 from the front (the sketchy 30 amp "charging/regulator" fuse), the PO probably found it melted, charred, burned, or otherwise compromised (but not "blown") and connected the red/green charging wire from the regulator directly to the red wire connected directly to the positive battery terminal. If the connection is of good quality, that may not be a totally bad thing.

I recall the recommendation that stainless steel fastener threads be coated with a grease or sealant to inhibit corrosive bimetal electrolysis when screwed into aluminum (the aluminum becomes sacrificial). I wonder if similar applies to stainless steel screwed into steel?

TechSession fodder for the Eighteenth South'n SpineRaid ! The difference in offset is actually enough to see visually without calipers. Now that we know what to look for!

That we found the hold-over 45mm offset triples on an actual, early V11 Sport at a South'n SpineRaid with a Sport 1100-i present for comparison was revealing. That @Lucky Phil has verified this differential offset (from top to bottom) in the later triples is epic. Welldone, Sir!

And so, the plot thickens . . . Now we can say there was more than one change to the V11 fork geometry. 1) Very early V11 Sport, 1999 to very early production 2000 (before March 2000) may have been fitted with 45mm offset triples from the Sport 1100/ 1100 Sport-i. The resulting short trail, along with the short "RedFrame" and tire selection (soft, triangular profile Pirelli Dragon Corsa) were a formula for instability. 2) 40 mm offest triples were introduced (as early as March 2000 production) that corrected this issue. 3) The LongFrame (with braced subframes and wider rear wheel tire) was introduced 2002. "Perhaps" along with this, the lower triple tree has 2mm decreased offset that further increases trail/stability, but required machining "the fork leg bores at a fractional angle." (the "canted" triples!) Can we determine these mixed offset upper/lower triples and the canted bores began with the LongFrame?

As bad as electro-f'ck-icity can be, electro-f'ck-onics are otherworldly . . . We might need a T-bird thread . . .

No secret that the Beemer guys call it "Can't Buzz."

I think you are in luck with the V11 - there is only the Central Processing Unit ("ECU").

Are you looking for trouble or an opportunity? (I grew up thinking that was the same thing . . .

AFAIK, and if I understand CANBUS at all, there is none on the V11. Only the ECU/ "CPU" and various sensors. Smarter people than I will be along that can speak that language more fluently . . .

Metal fatigue failure from years of overloading the Tekno pannier. At first I thought the welds failed, but it was the three metal tabs that broke. My fabricator decided to connect the entire frame tab to the tubing instead of the three separate points. He also addressed the other side preemptively.

Yes, indeed the early "chin pad" tank will "hold" 5.8 US gallons. It just will not deliver it all through the left side fuel tap having trapped about 3/4 US gallon in the right side tank "saddle." More than once to my chagrin.

Your idea of using the two-nut method is good. Simply precede the attempt with a penetrating oil and heat application. Looks like the other fastener should also be addressed . . .

Good plan! Better than the drill + screw extractor. Those fasteners look very rusty, typical for a (Gulf) coastal bike. PBBlaster has worked for me, but maybe not as well as "Ed's Red." (50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid). And heat. Did I mention *heat* . . .

"The Price Is Right " relays are why I carry spare OMRON G8HE or high current rated CIT onboard. Not for mySport, but for my V11 buddies that didn't get the memo . . .

Agreed. Avert the eyes of the squeamish and hide the women and children . . . [ @czakky knew I was waiting for this moment to pounce . . . ]

A more reassuring image. Can you get locking pliers on the inboard protrusion of the broken fastener?

Is there enough threaded portion of the remaining fastener protruding inboard to get a clamping pliers ("ViceGrip®") on the turn the fastener inboard to remove (after a liberal soaking of penetrating oil-of-choice plus, maybe, a bit of heat gun)? Sorry for this scary view of my broken frame tab, but it shows how the fasteners can protrude inboard . . .