docc

I am encouraged! Original 2000 Chin Pad on left, after ShinEtsu. 2002 used part on right.

After cleaning the original Chin Pad with mild, warm, soapy water and drying . . . tested with a bit of ShinEtsu grease. I've tried "other" products on the ChinPad and only made it worse. I would not have tried this without the replacement on hand . . . (original on left): Scary, I know.

The Chin Pad was really difficult to pull off (better than it flying off at speed!). I treated the rubber capture grommets (as well as the rubber fuel filler surround) to the delight of ShinEtsu grease. I never noticed that rubber surround on the fuel neck before . . .

My "Chin Pad" has become weathered, and greyed, mottled, and showing the years and usage of my Sport's miles (along with a lot of tank bag that I no longer use). @KINDOY2 helped me source a replacement that gave me the opportunity to try and rescue my original (right):

Oh, hey, and: certain cleaning solutions are notorious for dissolving these adhesive "tapes" and send the little badges to the highway. Both "SuperClean" and "S100" come to mind . . . Not "adhesive tape" compatible!

Nice one, @deadpen69 ! Our V11 have four of these: alternator cover, top triple clamp, and both Frame Side Plates. Be aware that only the alternator cover has a slight curve to it. When applying to the other locations, consider pressing the badge flat before application. And, also, that the adhesive tape may not be the best way to keep them from going missing, again.

What is the torque value on those nuts? And there are two? both 32mm, but only the deeper crank nut requires the extra deep access? Mine has been on there some "mileage". Should I expect to apply some heat to break it loose?

That particular Scura is an AMAZING complete refurb having addressed every known issue to both V11 and the Scura. So well done! Even more so when the "starting point" is considered . . .

Is this the correct 32mm extra deep socket for the job? https://www.grainger.com/product/SK-PROFESSIONAL-TOOLS-Socket-1-2-in-Drive-Size-20K046

Would it be a horrible bodge, or a waste of time, or a risk of worsening, to drag a pick along that leaking juncture / clean it well with a solvent, and apply an RTV silicone from the outside, working it into the seam? Field expedient?

Even more elusive, and equally (or more) important is getting declarations of the actual Base Oil.

I had to to look that up. I thought it was a still . . .

Worthy project! You can count on us for background noise!

This would make me look for a hydraulic fluid leak, either clutch of front brake systems. This just looks beyond just "water" to me . . . Seems @Scud found a good silver to match the early Sport silver. Perhaps it is a VHT engine paint? Member @sp838 had the eagle badges 3D printed, but not sure if only in the Gambalunga logo or also in the traditional. The (expensive) originals are aluminum. The chrome headtube cover may clean up with 00 steel wool. Surprisingly, 00 steelwool is awesome for chromed steel and shines without scratching.

I did not know they are different. Thanks for the clarification! @p6x asked, "Can this timing chest/case can be removed without taking the engine down completely? " The answer is, "yes." Other things have to get out of the way. Someone did this recently and posted. Maybe @andy york or @Pressureangle in one of the Timing Gears threads . . .

Looks like you found it.

Getting closer. I presume the entire top of the motor is completely dry (?) There are other culprits, otherwise. The O-rings of the oil cooler lines and the timing chest gasket. Also, I see a "P.Roper Plate" installed. The three gaskets of the plate/sump spacer/sump are also suspect. Once you have it all cleaned, again, spray the surfaces with a commonly available dry foot powder. Start up, idle/rev, and look for discoloration. If none, then ride around the block at low speed (low wind to blow the oil away from the source). Look for discoloration of the powder. It will be the leak source.

I would like to hear back from the OP @dbarb3 if the routing of the fuel lines and vent were found mixed up, and that addressing this return line through the regulator solved the "Fuel Problem " . . .

Yeah, I would not wind on the white knob anymore until the balance tool is set up. There is a mechanical method to pre-set the balance at idle. I think @gstallons posted this procedure. Might be a way to get your throttle rod back close to balance before the Balance Tool can be used . . .

Some balance tools also have a "storage" setting that blocks the vacuum pathway in the tool. My Motion Pro mercury sticks have this. There is a hose that has to be physically moved from a blocked port to an open port on the back of the tool.

This makes sesnse regarding more than optimal ZDDP, then: " . . . could present issues related to ‘over-plating’ of components with specific tolerances. "

Hi, Marco! So, first, screw in the left side idle stop screw until it bumps the linkage slightly open (you'll come back to that in the last step to set the final idle). Start the motor an use the twist grip to bring the rpm up to 2000-3000, then use the white knob to equalize the vacuum on the balancing tool. Some of these balancing tools have a "sensitivity" setting and some use restrictors to connect to the vacuum ports on the intakes. (It is connected to the intakes just ahead of the throttle bodies?)

Progress!

Thanks. Could this affect our big end bearings? Or what, specifically, in the V11 motor?