docc

Unfortunately, those are still under-rated Chinese relays. If you can't find High Current OMRON G8HE on ebay, then the CIT are available and the ratings check out. Otherwise, any Nasty Hiccup should start with a "Decent-tune UP" . . .

Best Moto Guzzi V-twin I ever heard was Andy York's LeMans when it had the Gianelli on it. Maybe because it was always in front of me. And pulling away . . .

Yep, here it is in that excellent thread. This good advice came from @Lucky Phil' expert posting: "The return spring can be installed the wrong way. Make sure when fitted the spring isn't contacting the cover, if it is remove it and install the other way."

Maybe that detailed explanation is in @Lucky Phil's Shift Improvement thread . . .

I recall that spring should only face one way. Flipping it over causes it to twist and make trouble?

I absolutely adore ferries and, most especially, while on a motorcycle!

For purposes of clarity, "Return" spring (left) / "Detent Roller" spring (right): [Above: the difference in spring shape after about 90,000 miles/145.000 km]

Of the two other springs, are we speaking of the asymmetrical "indexer" spring or the symmetrical "centering" spring? Otherwise, I would certainly address this alignment first:

I love the juxtaposition of the jet fighter with the biplane and how the V11 fits somewhere in between . . .

Agreed.

@dbarb3 is in for a HUGE improvement to his V11 !

You can see the return fuel line routing in this image, courtesy of @Tom in Virginia: Here's another:

Yes, once fuel is pumped to the left injector, there is a fuel line connecting to the right injector, and another fuel line from that injector to the inlet of the regulator. As mentioned, the vent and overflow from the tank nipples hang free.

So, the under-tank "nipples" (Chin-pad/external pump tank) that exit the bottom of the tank above the spine frame: right is tank vent and left is "overflow"/drain. These should have no connection to the fuel supply/return/ "injectors" . . .

I ask about the fuel line routing because I cannot make sense of this "tube that goes down to the injectors" . . . Maybe an image of that nipple/ tube would help . . .

( A gallon is barely enough to be picked up by the fuel tap on a "Chin-pad", external pump tank. ) As far as your fuel hose routing: Fuel Tap/petcock (left side of the lower tank pannier) --> Fuel pump --> fuel filter --> left injector --> right injector --> regulator (on the right lower pannier) ? The two "nipples" deep up in the saddle of the tank for venting and overflow should not be connected to any of the fuel supply/return.

Have the throttle bodies been balanced at "some rpm?" No mention of TPS baseline. Or CO Fuel Trim. What fuel are you running?

So much of motorcycling impresses me as ethereal. "In the head?" Unquestionably, motorcycling is a heady experience. And an emotional one. These aspects certainly can cloud our methods and technical impressions. We are not the first to allow the heart and feel and head to cloud the technical matters . . . "A skittish motor-bike with a touch of blood in it is better than all the riding animals on earth, because of its logical extension of our faculties, and the hint, the provocation, to excess conferred by its honeyed untiring smoothness. Because Boa loves me, he gives me five more miles of speed than a stranger would get from him." – T. E. Lawrence

First few things to try: > Loosen the battery terminals and clean the terminal stack and bolt, apply some Vaseline or (better Caig DeOxit) and make sure they are good'n tight. > Inspect the 30 amp charging fuse for tightness, damage, or signs of excessive heat. > Make sure there is a ground wire from the regulator case to the timing chest of the engine.

Uh, so, I mean just turn the lights on for a minute or so before you get on, start up, and take off. Not a couple hours before.

Lots of PC545 and regulator lore logged here. The PC545 does have some rather specific charging requirements, per the manufacturer. Link to a lengthy thread, below. Otherwise, turn the ignition/lights on while you finish putting your helmet and gloves on, before starting. The draw will chemically warm the battery and enhance the start discharge current. I found this totally non-intuitive and hard to accept. Reality can be like that sometimes.

All good thinking. I struggled with LED being very unidirectional, becoming alarmingly less visible from even slightly reduced visual angles (read: inattentive driver from the rear, off-center to the lane of travel). I updated the link in this thread. This simple LED tail/brake unit has been awesome. It was like ten bucks US . . . I remember learning that LED color must be matched to lens color for maximum effect.

I rather like how the 2x2 carbon fiber matches my Z-Leathers and AGV helmet . . . But also, the Fender tweed on my Bassman amp . . .

Is it the holes in each spoke we're talking about? (Or the big holes in the front wheel's "hub" area?)

AH. I've never noticed that. Mine are all open.