docc

Nice! That level of accessibility makes me think . . .

Maybe source a complete mirror from one the parts bikes on ebay?

Ordered one or actually received one?

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/de/piaggio-ersatzteile/gu01762090 in Europe. Maybe CadreCycle, Cincinnati? https://cadrecycle.com/product/panel-cover/

So interesting to see the details on this rather iconic V11! I had always thought Pete had it "done-up." Obviously "more to the story" . . . Any ideas who had the initial work done by Mike Rich and FBF? ("Now there's a pride of lions to draw to.")

Back in the day, lots of us would use that emoji to represent the elusive "gremlin" in our V11 . . .

I've come to regard the V11 "Stilettos" as elegant devices of magnificence . . .

Stand by. Remember, you asked . . .

"He say you Brade Lunnah, Mista Deckard. You tune my Guzzi good?

In addition to sliding the reservoir fore-to-aft in the mounting collar, realize that the bracket is only mounted to the Frame Side Plate fastener at the nine o'clock position. The reservoir assembly can be rotated downward (counterclockwise) away from the throttle rod "white knob" from that fulcrum? The "white knob" can also be rotated for better clearance by using the lock nut/ ball fixture on the right side of the throttle rod. (Fiddling with this can make better clearance over the reservoir adjuster, but will affect throttle body synchronization.)

+1 on "Don't let your shock reservoir lock your throttle open!" My Öhlins (an Öhlins part, not a Guzzi part) reservoir is 145mm from the base to the top of the adjusting knob. The Sachs is 140mm. Yet, there is a cap on what looks like a Schrader valve on the butt of the Sachs (I never noticed this before! ) that adds 5mm for the same overall length.

But, but . . it seemed to work for all those other guys. That weren't me . . .

There is an alternative that grounds back to the battery and eliminates the "battery" warning light (if your V11 has one; later harness eliminated the light). I still use the OEM type I get from EuroMotoElectric (pretty sure they have the other type, as well). Certainly, the regulator case absolutely must be grounded to the engine case (or clear back to the battery). Someone smart will be along to detail the regulator alternative to the OEM . . .

Welldone, @MartyNZ! Agreed on the regulator isolation being unnecessary. It isn't worth loosening the fuse holder. No "arc welding" spark should occur with the method you have illustrated.

Exactly. @MartyNZ knows best : "Then I always follow the golden rule: " disconnect negative first, reconnect negative last" Remember: positive to the batteries, negative (last connection to make, first to remove) to a remote grounding point on the jump vehicle (away from the compromised battery that may have out-gassed sensitive and explosive gasses.) Disconnect the negative from the jump vehicle first. (No spark near the compromised battery.)

Pull the 30 amp fuse? Is it worth it? I dunno. Mixed reports, but maybe worth doing for the (hopefully) rare "jumpstart." I can just pull the "service switch" on my "Alternative Circuit Breaker."

I carry a dedicated set of "motorcycle jumper cables" in my pannier. The clips are sized appropriately for a motorcycle battery. Here is a set from AF1Racing/Yuasa. Be smart about your connection points and connection/disconnect sequence. I "isolate" my regulator when a jumpstart must be performed. YMMV. https://www.af1racing.com/Yuasa-8-Foot-MotorcycleScooter-Jumper-Cables

New Valeo starter (#2), new Odyssey PC545 (#5)*. First time out on mySport in eight weeks. 60ºF/ 16ºC, she ran like a Labrador Retriever between the truck and the lake . . . *[My Sport's batteries are "stepped down" into my garden tractor when the tractor's battery expires. Otherwise, mySport would still be on PC545 #3, which is twelve years old and still in service.]

@Admin Jaap for the win !

That hot positive is notably close to the grounded ECU case. One must be mindful swinging a spanner there . . .

On the 2002 Le Mans, yes!

And also that the Workshop Manual states that 111111 is the first V11 built, meaning that this special V11 is #223 built. Fascinating!!

Very curious about this V11 as it appears to be very early production. The metal "Build Tag" is riveted to the left side of the headstock. While the serial number is most easily seen, the actual build date (month-year) is dot peen engraved on the front/bottom of this plate. I did not know my Sport's actual build date was there for many, many years.