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Well found! Where does this install on the LeMans fairing?

This also makes you (us?) "perfectly select humanoids" of which there are, evidently, "few ." [Your Moderator does, of course, paraphrase and otherwise jack around with syntax ] > . . . If @po18guy doesn't forgive this transgression, I owe him (another) beer. . . . <

I suspect (but do not know) that the frame mounted kit, as on @Randown's nice Ballabio, offers more stability at speed (The fairing not jostling the forks as on the standard Sports) and a bigger "air capsule" for the rider behind the flyscreen.

Ah, so, a 2001 V11 Sport "TT" . . . with titanio cans!

Goofman's GB has particular provenance and legacy status. They really are delightful little things, both to ride and behold. Twenty-seven years ago, I had to consider selling mine because of an impending relocation. I decided against it, but an inquiry about it brought me another lifelong friend. Motorcycling is awesome. The riding is good, too . . .

Pretty sure that spring is not available by itself, but the rebuild kit is not expensive. I do recall having to Dremel cut the retention ring that holds it all together. You might see if simply bleeding the clutch with fresh fluid restores your lever travel before we condemn the spring . . .

Here, you see the bleeder just on the other side of the back of the starter. (The image illustrates the correct right angle alignment of the shift mechanism, but that is another topic). The clutch can be bled without removing anything but the rubber cap, but it is fiddly and really helps to have the bike lifted and chocked upright.

Another view of the slave (with no swingarm) showing the location inboard of the (1st Gen Chuck-Made LuckyPhil Extended) shift arm . . .

Here is an image of the Grimeca slave cylinder from a rear view with no swingarm in the way. The bleeder is capped at the top left beside the clutch fluid line. (The red circle indicates the important main ground to the back of the gearbox which is not part of this topic).

Okay, here is a link to a the thread about the broken M/C spring with images of the failure and rebuild kit parts:

When my lever did that I found a broken spring inside the M/C. I recall another report of same. M/C rebuild Guzzi part # 110436292 (12mm) The bleeder is on the slave cylinder on the very back of the gearbox. Fiddly to get to, but possible. Let me scare up some links & pics . . .

Sheesh! I cannot believe that car didn't spin or go sliding off the track! Incredible driver control.

I would add to Scud's reply that not only is the flyscreen frame mounted on the Ballabio (as on the Café Sport, Coppa Italia, and Scura R), but also the headlamp and instruments. From the side views, you can see how this entire assembly stands further off the front than the standard Sports (and 2002 Scura).

Thanks for the offer, @Randown! Just a note that Randown has been a member here since 2009. Nice Ballabio! Rare to see them in grey . . .

^^ I spy the V11-Hammer-Badge-of-Honor . . .

Unless you have those earliest 01493xxx clamps to assess, there will be no difference between the 5014xx clamps (if I am understanding this correctly).

Agreed. After all this time, Option 2 is looking best supported by all we can discern. "Cuirouser and curiouser" these V11 . . .

That is not my interpretation. My understanding is the 01493xxx are "different" from all of the later 5014xx clamps. Different how? That is what we are seeking to derive . . .

Like the translated-from-Italian wiring diagrams are more legible? (not)

Hmmm, I wonder if there is a "legend" in the beginning of that document that might shed some light . . .

"Allettante?" I can't really make any sense of the T5/T6. Where did you find this? In a published factory Parts Catalog? I ask because the Harper's breakdown is propriety to them and not factory literature.

You would have to compare to the earlier-yet, 01493xxx clamps to see if those are different (beyond the offset).

At first review, a slight discrepancy between the rating printed on the case (NO:30A/NC:25A) and the data sheet (NO:30A/NC:20A). Now, twenty amps across the NC contacts is really fine even for an early V11 where the #1/Starter relay is running the current to the #2/Headlight Relay (that is fed from a 15 amp fuse). Just not okay to expect a NC:10amp relay to survive that duty indefinitely. Now, just a discrepancy, not a deal breaker. The contact material is a silver alloy, which puts it ahead of the common GEI (copper alloy). Otherwise, the "data sheet" is a bit short on specification. The coil wattage (which "may be" a measure of coil strength) is not given. Nor is the amperage rating specified between inrush current and continuous current (desirable for our application). This is awfully common to these spec sheets, but it seems the higher the relay quality, the more detailed is the data sheet. I'm on my 7th set of different relays from making preemptive changes, but I am no electrical expert by any means! Over the course, I have endeavored to learn the terminology and functional nature of relays. I wish the data sheets were standardized! I have seen and assisted in many V11 relay failures over these many years (and SpineRaids!). My only relay failures involved my last full set of OMRON G8HE (I ran the lower rated G8HN for nine years with no failures). I traced the G8HE failures to a faulty regulator along with a failing stator (failed yellow wire at the strain point) and theorized I must have been getting some horrendous voltage spikes.

I rather doubt "T5/T6" refers to Tenni as those were not produced alongside the "NC/RC." Perhaps @footgoose can shed light on the Tenni axle question as he has now equipped his lovely Tenni with Öhlins forks from a Rosso Corsa. This 5mm change in offset discovery may be one of the unsolved mysteries of the very, very early (pre-February 2000 build date) Sport that had us chasing the elusive and dubious "1/2º" . . . FWIW, both my March 2000 Sport and Lucky Phil's February 2000 fall within the frame number cutoff Greg Field originally posted, but both have the later 5014xx series triple clamps. I'm also not sure that the clamp change is consistent with the change from a screwed axle to a nutted axle. (Mine is nutted. @Lucky Phil? @footgoose?)