docc

I mean, the image in the original post is about as bad of a representation as there is. A closer look through the several quality promotional and walk-around videos reveal some intriguing contours and transitions in the design. The green/grey with the Öhlins looks particularly nice (over the monochromatic red). I have been relieved that it did not follow the worn-out floating panel design trying to look like a GS or KTM wannabe. Looking forward to getting eyes (and ears, and boots) on one!

Wait! What? No more south'n fried chicken or sausage biscuits ?!?

The early V11 (1999-2001) stress the first relay instead of using the Ignition Switch to start. Beginning 2002, Startus Interuptus is possible in a V11. Often, simply servicing the Ignition Switch can make a difference, otherwise it's back to adding a relay to the start circuit.

Take a multi meter to the battery after it has been sitting for a few hours. If it's an AGM (especially the Odyssey PC545), voltage below 12.65 (~85%) should be cause to "condition" the battery (charge to 14.7v [15.0 volts max] with at least 6 amps). Don't expect a weak "trickle charger to bring it up, especially if the static voltage is below 12.5. Also, are you using a reliable High Current relay?

Granted, it drops the front, mostly. But rather dramatically. The V11 seat pan tends to sit down hard (especially on the early Sport), so dropping the battery mounting can help save the battery, as well. The simple solution @footgoose posted for improving the excessive number of terminal rings on the battery posts does not look like it really needs more space under the seat . . .

Very tasteful! I would still love to find a source for lithographs of the Ettore Gambioli work featured in Moto Guzzi 1921-2021, produced by FBA MotoItaliane . . . Example: If anyone can find of source of these Gambioli works lithographed or finely printed . . . @p6x ??

With the limited clearance under the seat, mounting the battery basket below the seat frame might be worth looking at to clear those angled connectors. This drops the battery about 14mm, IIRC.

No worries, Chris! The plate is isolated by the gaskets with no fasteners in contact. This Galvanic Corrosion is more about the thread contact. There are other issues with stainless steel fasteners, as noted.

Right? Cadmium plating improves the Galvanic effect between steel and aluminum, but not dramatically. Also, interesting, that there is no Galvanic reactivity between aluminum/steel and brass/bronze. I once bought a twenty year old motorcycle from a long-time owner who was a career mechanic in oil refineries. The bike had various, odd, gold-colored fasteners all over it. One of my buddies called it "Navy Bronze." Sure enough that (aka Navy Brass) is a solution to the corrosive effects common to marine applications. Now that the motorcycle I bought new is over twenty years old, I'm probably behind converting all its fasteners to Navy Bronze . . .

I've been schooled in the Periodic Table of the Elements, but for other reasons. I might venture that Galvanic Effect cannot be predicted by the difference in the Atomic Number, but something more to do with differences in the electrons in the outer shell(s) of the atom's electron cloud. I waded pretty heavily out of my pay grade, there, so take that as some sort of cocktail party talk. There are charts of Galvanic Compatibility. Stainless steel and aluminum are considered a poor compatibility choice in this regard, even in high humidity away from salt. Notice the extremely low reactivity between aluminum and cadmium: https://elnamagnetics.com/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/Leadertech/Galvanic-Potential-Differneces.pdf

While I’ve been careful to apply a good coat of grease to the SS threads to prevent the galvanic corrosion, the apparent fact that it will be the aluminum that is lost, not the cheaper and easier to replace SS fastener, steered me away from SS in aluminum. Does titanium not have this same corrosive characteristic in aluminum?

Moved @MartyNZ's post to its own topic owing to its importance.

"The Changeover Start Relay" . . . . [Makes one curious what specific relays came out, as well as what relays were selected to install as replacements. . .]

Thanks, @4corsa ! The matter of disconnecting during charging has always been debatable, yet I figured it was worth following those instructions if it helped the regulator last any longer. Here again, though, I can just pull out the service switch on my added 30 amp circuit breaker. I would risk fatiguing the female terminals by pulling and replacing the fuse every time. Certainly with regard to how we know the regulator is so very poorly grounded on the V11, we should all be able to agree that a dedicated ground is very well indicated, in our case.

@Admin Jaap shared this cleverly insightful tutorial about The Netherlands before. Worth reposting!

On the early V11, Relay 2 provides those functions through its Normally Open contact, but the current is routed through the weaker Normally Closed contact of Relay One. An important position for a High Current relay.

The V11 designer, Luciano Marabese, commented on this in his Anima Guzzista interview, 2002. "This one (and again points to the [Legnano green] V11 beyond the glass) was made with passion and is beautiful with this color and with the red frame. Ah, don't ask me for an opinion on the colors they did after it, okay? Or turn off the recorder ... You see, the Guzzi is also made of colors, traditions, spirit 'whoever doesn't understand this hasn't understood anything ... the motorcycle must be beautiful in its entirety, that codon there' (of new points the finger) when it is broken in two by a different color it loses its beauty." ( Others have found combined colors to their taste. )

FWIW, my latest (#4) OEM type regulator invoice, January 2018, from Euro MotoElectrics, Denver, CO/USA, does not have this advice added. My #2 regulator (first replacement in 2005) came from a Moto Guzzi dealer. It was Regulator #3 (also from Euro MotoElectrics), July 2010, that had those advice labels added.

I was going to recommend my treasured Valve Adjustment tool, but do not see a current source.

I couldn't see where any of the badging says "TT." Was it a US distributor special? Or are they in other parts of the world?

Yep, he said if the magnets fail, the starter locks. Thinking you should next look at the Ignition Switch.

I'll ask the talented tech that actually discovered the cob starter.

Pretty characteristic of the Ignition Switch for the later V11 like yours. It really is quite straight-forward to get to and take apart for inspection, cleaning, and a good dose of some "treatment" (Caig DeOxit or even a petroleum Jelly like Vaseline®).

Did you remove the rear cover to the starter motor and verify all of the magnets are still adhered and spaced correctly?

Good luck with the hunt, @NM-1 ! Looking for the earliest Sport 1100 with carburetors (1995-96)? Or the 1100 Sport-i, fuel injected, version of that model (1996-97)? Or even on the later V11 Sport (1999-2004) with the 1100 motor?