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Everything posted by docc
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IDK regarding the QR connectors, but the "abnormally large" (12mm) hose on the early system is from the petcock to the pump (or filter, as you say) and these are self contained on the later tank. All of the new tank fuel lines are for the injectors and return.
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Not bad thinking, at all. @fubar guzzi's TPS thread: And his "Help Starting" thread: Maybe there are some clues in this discourse . . .
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What does it do when trying to ride it?
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This bike does not start or run?
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So, there is a particular O-ring under one of the head bolts at the inboard-center (top) of the head that is known to drizzle an oil leak around the fins at the head/cylinder junction to below and behind the spark plug. I tried to break that bolt loose to replace the O-ring, but pretty sure my hi-miler will need heat-and-beat to get that bolt out. A "tank-off" procedure . . .
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The wolf in sheep's clothing!
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The more volatile chemicals always worry me that they will lift the paint off with the stain. Especially if left to "soak."
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I learned about SuperClean® from @Chuck. Carefully hose it off after it sits a few minutes and use a blower to dry the engine and everywhere the hose splashed. For baked on oil, I will sometimes use mineral spirits and a soft Nylon brush (toothbrush or parts cleaning brush).
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Quite disturbing to imagine the shaved ape who is given the job to "Bust it to the smallest bits and tie toe tags to the results." Reminds me of a guy we hired to "deconstruct" our kitchen. That he did. Yet, we never intended to offer up the debris for sale.
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Electric(al) on cars makes sense to me. Like this insane yellow (Accel?) coil that @Tomchri shared with us last year. Pretty sure "dual quad Holleys on a tunnel ram" offer up emotion enough! Maybe some "Hooker Headers" to stir the mix . . .
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Even worse, the "breakers" that take assemblies down to their smallest bits to re-sell each little part individually.
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Not everyone would watch (and listen!) to 27 minutes of car noises. Admittedly, I have a decent sound system to play these sonorous tracks through. I got hooked in the first six minutes thinking, "Nothing here wants to idle or run at less than 5,000 rpm!" (Just like mySport . . .) Then, they turned them all loose!
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This Sport officially made 200.000 km today. In fine form. I pulled over to record the moment. The most poignant feature in the image? The road ahead!
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782A2033-8C60-444F-AE32-D9158E245CC3.jpeg
docc commented on Guzzimax's gallery image in Members Gallery
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The "wide sump" (regardless of which gearbox) was designed for the round access plate to access the filter without removing the entire sump as in all prior Guzzi Big Blocks. It's value and use is the matter of some differing opinions. It is removed with a 27mm hex drive. While I don't recall Moto Guzzi actually built a special tool for this, there have been several aftermarket. One of the 27mm axle nuts can be put to task, as necessary. Be diligent and mindful re-installing it so as not to cross thread into the sump! Eh, well, my speedo is in miles. I had been trying to figure out how to get my Speedhut to display kilometers, but have not gotten there. So, while "124,274.2 miles" doesn't really look very interesting, I did get this on the lead up:
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Good find, Paul! Although, the 2002 wiring harness differs from the 2000. That said, there are two separate wiring harnesses on our V11. 1999-2001 Injection wiring - - - - - 01725830 1999-2001 Electrical system - - - - - 01747130 (what @Dulci is asking for.) 2002 Injection/Ignition "Set of Wiring" - - - - 01725890 2002 Electrical System/Main Cable Kit - - - - 01725890
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Consider it done! Glorious 133 mile day on hilly backroads, almost no traffic (I did pass that one Porsche. Because I could.) Perfectly clear, dry 60ºF/ 16ºC. Not the greatest view, but gives an idea of the roads here. This is the point that mySport posted an honest 200,000 kilometers. And ran sooooo great all day!
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Seems that a V10 RedFrame should have a 9" rear. Oh, wait, that is something entirely different . . .
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Pretty sure we all feel for ya, buddy. Personally, I surely don't have the patience or restraint to do what you have done and sit it out until spring to be riding a sweet RedFrame V11 Sport. Cold front passing tonight here. Tomorrow will be the most joyous, Mandello-like weather mySport will have breathed since the spring. She absolutely loves it! I can hardly wait for even just tomorrow! Cannot imagine waiting 'til spring . . .
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But why? All of the early (1999-2001) Sport had 4.5" rear rims. V11 "Sport" (with fork mounted headlamp and instruments were produced throughout the range, even in the LongFrame and long tank versions. All of the LongFrame have 5.5" rims.
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Green with . . . green with . . . ? What is that phrase again . . . .
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@leafman60 last visited May, 2018. If he has forum notifications set to receive, then that "@ + username" may send him something. Otherwise, let me reach out to him another way. Not VooDoo, I promise. Well, maybe just a little . . .
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I have another method I'm trying . . . How about this member in Colorado with a 2003 Rosso Corsa: @PDBoulder https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/profile/10443-pdboulder/
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ANSWERED OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 DC12V or Equivalent (CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R?)
docc replied to p6x's topic in Technical Topics
After riding my Sport today about 36 miles/58 km, I found the 4 year old OMRON G8HE in the #5 Ignition/injector position 155ºF/68ºC. Installed the CI,T then another 36 miles and the CTI was 159ºF/71ºC. The IR reader is only accurate to +/- 4ºF/6.5ºC, so the two relays are essentially the same with regard to heat. Both are hotter than I expected based upon previous reports in the Hot Relay thread. Not sure if any of that is helpful, really. I think it is encouraging the new CIT was not significantly different than the OMRON. I'll leave it in the FI/Ignition position and keep an eye on it.