docc

There are a ton of micro-ISO relays that are considered adequate for the V11 until one learns which applications exceed the capacity, or quality, of the individual relay. Hence, the intelligence of knowing where true high capacity relays are desirable.

Make no mistake, the "RedFrame" V11 Sport was/is a real "sporting" Guzzi. So-much-so, that Moto Guzzi very quickly lengthened and braced the frame, offered a fairing, with a wider rear rim/bigger tire, changed the forks, and offered "handlebars" (over the clip-ons). We > RedFrameTrash < are just lucky to land here and soak up the love.

And/Or faulty main ground to the back of the gearbox. Don't ask your starter to find am alternate ground path . . .

FWIW, my "R" OMRON have the same center blade.

I've got 7.5mm HT wire on the way from O'Reillys, but if I could have a do-over (other than the OEM, if they are actually available), these 7mm wires from (Bob) MarxParts (Wisconsin, USA) look enticing! (This is the guy that is willing to sell me just the coil terminals I need) . . .

Look for this topic to move out of "Wanted/Classifieds" to Technical Topics . . .

+1 that the resistor caps are 5kΩ. When y'all buy plug caps (and plugs), I'd suggest getting a couple extra of each and stow them in the monkey paw trap. Even a light tip over can damage the cap and plug. If they are onboard, you (or one of your unfortunate buds) will not be stranded by such simple (and vulnerable) parts that can be easily on hand.

Even with knowing about the extra 274 miles to make a true and proper 200.000 km, it was cool to see this on the odometer today.

Those are legit. That is probably not a MOPAR number, though. The consensus has been that the number printed below the circuit diagram is probably a production run designation.

So, just for due diligence, I went by my Jeep/Dodge dealer and asked for that fan relay. He said they would have to order it (next day delivery). Almost $18US (each). I would only trust this source if the relay comes with the complete set of OMRON markings. I corresponded directly with OMRON about a Ford relay that was reported as equivalent and they told me that they could not guarantee the specications as those would have been built to the auto manufacturer's specs, not specifically OMRON specs.

Ah, the fiberglass Stucchi (Stucchi Luigi) . . .

More hard-won, derived knowledge about our V11 relays: The Livin' Easy Test" (for Relay #1) . . .

Oh, yes. Another nuance to be aware of that can make the relay look rated "higher." The 40 amp is the "Inrush Current", NC only. Look at that Inrush Current rating on the NO side: 120 amps! Run your hair dryer on that, baby! (nope) Be very careful to go by the "Continuous Carry Current" or "Rated Load" ratings. Endeavor to understand where your application is using "NC" (Normally Closed/ weaker side/ lower number) vs "NO" (Normally Open/ stronger side/"pulled in"/ higher number). https://omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/products/pdf/en-g8he.pdf

I know I should have tried to find those OEM NOS HT wires with the coil terminals included (GU01718330 ), but I got all excited and ordered the 7.5mm red wire to cut to length from O'Reilly's. Needing the terminal ends for the coils, I bought these to install. A buck a piece plus the usual shipping, so another $7.50US: https://marxparts.com/spark_plug_wire_and_fittings.htm So, $30US for both with the coil terminals (and extra wire) instead of $30 each side (assuming they are available).

For the sake of clarity, let me suggest that what @p6x calls "two prong" and "three prong" we have commonly referred to as "4-pin" and "5-pin", respectively. Technically, these are specified "Form A" (4-pin) and "Form C" (5-pin), seen in the part of the number "1C7T." Yes, only V11 position #1/ Start (front) requires the 5-pin (Form C), but these will "rest" in all the other positions as spares. Thank you, p6x, for clarifying the R vs R1. Agreed that this change is about the suppressor (resistor), and not the connection form or configuration. With regard to the part of the thread title, "...or Equivalent anyone? " Indeed, if anyone finds a true, honestly rated High Current equivalent of this "best" OMRON G8HE, please share! Must be rated 20/35 amps (NC/NO) and not rated by cheaters using lesser materials, weaker springs, smaller contact surfaces and all of the other short cuts commonly foisted upon us. 10/20 relays need NOT apply!

@p6x, I see a Tyco in your images. Are all of your relays the same Tycos? FWIW, those have been the very worst performers in the many options we have tried for the V11 (in my observations). You will be very happy with your High Current OMRONs!

I saw you noted the wider and narrower blade sizes. The narrower blades concerned me initially, but I have found that either the narrow or wide blades work equally well in the V11. There are only the two sizes (of blades), and either will fit.

Good thing about the V11 relay blocks, 5-terminal (Form C) relays fit in every position and either the wide blade or narrow blade relays work equally well. The High Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 Relays have the amperage rating (on both the normally open and normally closed contacts) to handle the V11's requirements.

There is this: https://www.harpermoto.com/spark-plug-wire-01718330.html Whether this is actually available? Call Curtis on the phone and ask.

From the Parts Catalog, here is the Moto Guzzi part number for the early Sport, red, "HT wire": GU01718330

What is wrong with this 7.5 mm solution at $1.99US/foot? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/performance/ignition/spark-plug-wire---bulk/283f648a25cc/standard-ignition-7-5mm-100-foot-primary-ignition-wire/std0/cc75c?pos=4 [edit: okay, shipped to me (in the USA) with taxes, five feet of this wire is $22.68US. Four feet is probably enough, but I hate to come up short. Coil end connectors must be added, but these should "screw" into the spark plug 90º angle connectors.]

Yes, what are the OEM early RedFrame red spark plug wires? I don't think these are Champion. I am also looking to replace mine. They are quite long, actually . . . They appear to measure 7mm (7.5mm?) outside diameter.

Epic thread drift. I promise to report myself to myself. No, really, the front UNI is >approachable< on an early RedFrame. It is. It is.