docc

Sweeeeet, buddy! It actually had occurred to me how distraught I would be with so much enthusiasm for a bike, then dropping it at a shop not to be experienced until after a looooooong winter. I was feeling for you, there. So, glad you got a good ride in! A really insightful report. The actual weight bias is 45/55, so not as extreme as you would think. Most of the weight transfer is down to getting your springs and sags set for your weight and preferences. That can be dialed in. and I paraphrase: " . . . smooth . . . eager . . . carmel-like . . . . wingless bi-plane . . ."

1929-30 Sport 14 (the second series of Moto Guzzi Sport)

To me, it still seems like the worst possible approach is to attach a couple restricted, down-turned rubber snorkels to pick up the hottest air coming off the exhaust manifolds when sitting at a stop. I still have mine. In a bag somewhere . . .

Oh, yeah! And that belled inlet in the original post look mighty familiar . . .

Two of them did. Seems like some pretty serious attrition….

Somewhere between the Cherokee NF, the Nantahala, and the "Cherohala" (Qualla Indian Boundary), the F'karewe tribe gathers to ponder their position; "Where the F'k-are-we?"

Rare images from South'n SpineRaid Three/ 2007 . . . How gorgeous is this?

A recurring theme: The Last Chance Texaco . . .

Yah, so, I don't often force my Sport to ride at those low RPM / low throttle angles. It really does piss her off, especially if the ambient temps and humidity are high. But it happens on rare occasion. And she hates it!

Or Buell . . . [edit: dang! sorry about that @buellish1, but you know what I mean. ]

If the V11 introduction is any indication, Moto Guzzi revealed that at EICMA 1997 and I was finally able to buy mine in August 2000. In all fairness, Piaggio "could" advance this lead time significantly relative to the owners at that transitional time (Finprogetti/TRG->Ivan Beggio/Aprilia).

Yep, pretty sure the 1100 Sport relay bases are more exposed to rear tire spray than the V11, but I can't be certain about that. Possibly, you just have a matter of drying those relay connections out and taking electronics cleaner to the relay bases, from above with the relay removed and below up into the wiring and connectors, then treat with something to keep the moisture out and maintain good connectivity. I have become a huge fan of Caig DeOxit Gold. It would be difficult to get Vaseline® (or an equivalent) up into those spaces, IMO. Not sure which relay is the "Headlight Relay" on your '97 Sport-i. On the V11, it is #2 (from the front). Perhaps you could dry out the area with a hair dryer until your headlight comes back on, then see which relay defeats the headlight when pulled out. Otherwise, we'll have to wait for a member with 1100 Sport-i experience to post. . . .

Did jumpering the Run/Kill switch make any difference?

This is classic Relay#2 failure ("headlight" relay) on a V11. You have four relays on your 1997 1100 Sport-i (the V11 has one more to accommodate the sidestand safety /Neutral Switch function). One of your relays is equivalent to the V11 Relay#2: headlight, brake light, tachometer, dash warning lights for battery and oil pressure, and likely also the "charging reference" (which is why your battery went dead). Score some of those High Current G8HE OMRON micro-ISO relays and inspect the bases the relays plug into (inspect, clean, treat with Caig DeOxit®).

+1 [As well as Relay#5 that @footgoose noted. That position totally requires a true High Current relay (OMRON G8HE).] Remember, the fuse block can be pried up out of its isolation blocks withut fussing with the impossible fasteners:

Those are all valid observations. No doubt, the V11 loves cool, dense, dry air to combust. Water vapor displaces oxygen and is not flammable. Also, this tendency to cough, or hiccup, in this range is decidedly multicausal. Again, I could list a dozen contributors. That the cam profiles and valve/port sizes are not conducive to this business of dragging around below 4000 rpm is by design as no one has ever complained that their V11 coughs while ripping from 5000 rpm to redline. Here again, "You can ask your tango chick to waltz. She'll do it, but it pisses her off."

At this point, I can probably list at least nine different hiccup sources afflicting our V11. If I were the soundman, and this were the audio feed, I would be smoothing these corners out. Jus' sayin' . . .

Makes me wonder if they are so close as to put the flanges in the oven at a couple hundred degrees Fahrenheit and spray the header weld with some "Freeze Spray", a little smear of grease inside the flange, wiggle&smack = and "Bob's yer Uncle" . . . .

Hi, Dennis! If your images are on a hosting site (there are several), open the individual image and "right click" to reveal a menu. Select "Copy Image Link" and paste into the reply box here to display the image. Good luck with the sale!

And I see these flanges from MGCycle with "48mm hole." As you measure around the header weld, @orangem2, how much interference is there? Can the weld be "smoothed down" a bit?

Just for reference, I found this image of the Mistral header pipe:

We do have one member here with a Husky 701. Sorry, the rest of us will also be lost trying to be of help, so don't follow the lost! Let's see if @Scud has some input, then I'll move this thread to . . . well, we don't have a Husky subforum, so maybe to "Banter" . . . Stand by @Nuttyp! Maybe we do have a guy . . .

Interesting. Today, another 70 mile checkride after moving the CO Fuel Trim from zero to +11 (an arbitrary figure I was using previously). I am reminded that the Fuel Trim only makes a significant difference at idle (throttle plate against the idle stop), but I figure it also influences this barely cracked (4.2º) traffic-slog hiccup. So, at +11 today I had to work much harder at making the Sport hiccup. The brap-pop-crackle on deceleration with closed throttle is better (not gone) and the transition out of a corner from closed throttle is smoother. Whether a greater increase of the CO Fuel Trim might further mitigate this 2700-3500 hiccup with barely cracked throttle is an opportunity for another day. Again, as long as there is the slightest load (uphill, or wind resistance above 50mph/80kph), the stumble in those rpm at light throttle opening disappears. It also is not significant below 2500 or above 4000 rpm. I am left agreeing with Lucky Phil that my Sport does not need 41-43.5º of ignition advance between 2700 and 4000 rpm at a steady 4.2º throttle opening. It seems reasonable that those steps should look more like the progression under the 5.2º sequence in those rpm ranges.