docc

Yep, pretty sure the 1100 Sport relay bases are more exposed to rear tire spray than the V11, but I can't be certain about that. Possibly, you just have a matter of drying those relay connections out and taking electronics cleaner to the relay bases, from above with the relay removed and below up into the wiring and connectors, then treat with something to keep the moisture out and maintain good connectivity. I have become a huge fan of Caig DeOxit Gold. It would be difficult to get Vaseline® (or an equivalent) up into those spaces, IMO. Not sure which relay is the "Headlight Relay" on your '97 Sport-i. On the V11, it is #2 (from the front). Perhaps you could dry out the area with a hair dryer until your headlight comes back on, then see which relay defeats the headlight when pulled out. Otherwise, we'll have to wait for a member with 1100 Sport-i experience to post. . . .

Did jumpering the Run/Kill switch make any difference?

This is classic Relay#2 failure ("headlight" relay) on a V11. You have four relays on your 1997 1100 Sport-i (the V11 has one more to accommodate the sidestand safety /Neutral Switch function). One of your relays is equivalent to the V11 Relay#2: headlight, brake light, tachometer, dash warning lights for battery and oil pressure, and likely also the "charging reference" (which is why your battery went dead). Score some of those High Current G8HE OMRON micro-ISO relays and inspect the bases the relays plug into (inspect, clean, treat with Caig DeOxit®).

+1 [As well as Relay#5 that @footgoose noted. That position totally requires a true High Current relay (OMRON G8HE).] Remember, the fuse block can be pried up out of its isolation blocks withut fussing with the impossible fasteners:

Those are all valid observations. No doubt, the V11 loves cool, dense, dry air to combust. Water vapor displaces oxygen and is not flammable. Also, this tendency to cough, or hiccup, in this range is decidedly multicausal. Again, I could list a dozen contributors. That the cam profiles and valve/port sizes are not conducive to this business of dragging around below 4000 rpm is by design as no one has ever complained that their V11 coughs while ripping from 5000 rpm to redline. Here again, "You can ask your tango chick to waltz. She'll do it, but it pisses her off."

At this point, I can probably list at least nine different hiccup sources afflicting our V11. If I were the soundman, and this were the audio feed, I would be smoothing these corners out. Jus' sayin' . . .

Makes me wonder if they are so close as to put the flanges in the oven at a couple hundred degrees Fahrenheit and spray the header weld with some "Freeze Spray", a little smear of grease inside the flange, wiggle&smack = and "Bob's yer Uncle" . . . .

Hi, Dennis! If your images are on a hosting site (there are several), open the individual image and "right click" to reveal a menu. Select "Copy Image Link" and paste into the reply box here to display the image. Good luck with the sale!

And I see these flanges from MGCycle with "48mm hole." As you measure around the header weld, @orangem2, how much interference is there? Can the weld be "smoothed down" a bit?

Just for reference, I found this image of the Mistral header pipe:

We do have one member here with a Husky 701. Sorry, the rest of us will also be lost trying to be of help, so don't follow the lost! Let's see if @Scud has some input, then I'll move this thread to . . . well, we don't have a Husky subforum, so maybe to "Banter" . . . Stand by @Nuttyp! Maybe we do have a guy . . .

Interesting. Today, another 70 mile checkride after moving the CO Fuel Trim from zero to +11 (an arbitrary figure I was using previously). I am reminded that the Fuel Trim only makes a significant difference at idle (throttle plate against the idle stop), but I figure it also influences this barely cracked (4.2º) traffic-slog hiccup. So, at +11 today I had to work much harder at making the Sport hiccup. The brap-pop-crackle on deceleration with closed throttle is better (not gone) and the transition out of a corner from closed throttle is smoother. Whether a greater increase of the CO Fuel Trim might further mitigate this 2700-3500 hiccup with barely cracked throttle is an opportunity for another day. Again, as long as there is the slightest load (uphill, or wind resistance above 50mph/80kph), the stumble in those rpm at light throttle opening disappears. It also is not significant below 2500 or above 4000 rpm. I am left agreeing with Lucky Phil that my Sport does not need 41-43.5º of ignition advance between 2700 and 4000 rpm at a steady 4.2º throttle opening. It seems reasonable that those steps should look more like the progression under the 5.2º sequence in those rpm ranges.

Sloan's in Murphreesboro, TN, has a good reputation. My son has bought two new Moto Guzzi from them in the last seven years. They handled the sales well and have taken care of any warranty issues professionally. Moto Guzzi, Piaggio even, is a minor line for them, but they have come through and have continued to market the Piaggio products. Hopefully, we will get to see this new V100 Mandello in the flesh soon. Are demo rides too much to ask for?

What a session! That must be a who's-who of musicians all around. I spy Mark Knopfler, for one . . .

And, of course, "Bring Tools." Two different SpineRaiders allowed as how they were ready to deploy guzzidiag, if desired or necessary. The Lodge guest with the needy Yamaha (not a SpineRaider) was suitably impressed when @HRC_V4 produced an air pig for his low tire. "Bring Tools."

This South'n SpineRaid exhibited the classic elements that are the formula for success and delight. Nothing can happen, in the least, unless you "Get There." Ride a Griso? Bring a LoopFrame? A Honda? Come late? Bring a friend? Okay to trailer? As long as you get there! Lots of ways to "get there." Three Sports to the wind? Check! And "Get There" was not lost on these cool cats (what a sight!!) : "Get There."

That timing advance at 2700-3500 rpm seems excessive, IMO. This is exactly where my Sport stumbles unless it is under the slightest load (slight uphill). I would be interested in looking at the rest of that table, @Lucky Phil. Where could a fellow see the whole thing up to full throttle opening?

Are those accent pieces “champagne?”

Tony/ @VtwinStorm agreed to carry on his Sport thread here. Looking forward to seeing how this excellent Sport evolves . . .

Just back from a 70 mile checkride. Short version: no change separating those leads . . .

The plug wires are replaceable. I've heard of Nology, but what are "Packard-style USA made plug leads?"

Sounding worthwhile to re-perform a Decent Tune-up with particular attention to the TPS. While I've never heard of, or seen, the CO Fuel Trim "drift", the TPS certainly can. Not unlikely, the issue is a matter of "stacked tolerances" as several parameters have developed slight contributions that add together.

Aren't they rather hellish to remove from the fuel rail? Unless there is some indication they are actually at fault, why not simply tune it, and run several tanks of quality fuel (like Shell V-Power Nitro+) and maybe even some Techron through it? You know, maybe even a little of "Tony's Italian Tune-up" . . .