docc

I really need to get-me some o' them. And a plan to replace my originals. Probably gonna have to have them milled off . . .

Making a gasket on the road isn't impossible, but it helps to be pulling into a SpineRaid where folks are, er, "handy" . . .

In the United States "insurance" is a sector of commerce relegated to the individual States (not the Federal Government). Many States constrain insurance premiums by justified, actual loss experience. Liability losses (your actions hurt others or damaged property) are, by far, the most costly insurance losses. It is, in fact, rather rare for a motorcyclist to inflict serious harm and damage upon other motorists. In U.S. States where this fact is recognized, motorcycle insurance premiums are very reasonable. "Sport" bikes with vulnerable body panels often have higher premiums since even minor incidents create a significant damage claim to the insured motorcycle.

Last year, I promised myself to play Brubeck's (acoustic) Take Five in my head to insure a flowing, but upbeat, gentlemanly pace. It was, mostly, effective. And enjoyable. Except for that one exuberant pass played to Rammstein's (electric) Benzin that brought out the blue lights and respectful, courteous conversation . . .

This woke me out of sound sleep. This happened after a battery change? Perhaps one of the battery ring terminals (either positive or negative) got dropped off the stack? Worth a look! It would not be the first time . . .

These are Goozies, so more about: Do we get to play Rock&Roll, or is it The Blues (again)?

Last year, mySport got lucky to sit back and play bass with some awesome Guzzi quartet . . . Cannot wait to get back there!!

Oh. Okay. You moved relays between two entirely separate wiring harnesses. [Just for clarity: the front is #1 and the back is #5.] Nothing near the headlight bucket wiring would defeat your brake light. All of your failures are Fuse#5, Relay#2. I suspect your tachometer is affected and your charging is compromised. If Relay #2 and Fuse #5, and all their connections, check out, perhaps next to inspect the connections within the Ignition Switch . . . What are the relays you are relying on? Lo mein?

Not sure what you meant by “pulled 4 and plugged that in.”

I'm not sure I made this entirely clear. If you have a faulty Relay#2 that takes out each of those functions (" . . . no brake lights, or hi/low beam headlights, hi beam indicator, alt, or oil pressure dash lights.") and you swap it with Relay#3, all those lights and horn should come on but the bike won't start with the stand down if you moved a faulty relay into the #3 position. It would still start with the stand up. A faulty Neutral Relay (#3) can be deceptive because the Neutral Light still comes on from the Neutral Switch. I realize none of these starting and Neutral Circuit issues are happening on your LeMans now, but they would if you swap a faulty #2 relay into the #3 position. Easy relay check even with the tank off

You can touch up those black fasteners with this instant gun blue formula: https://www.amazon.com/Brownell-Formula-Instant-Gun-Blue/dp/B00IYZBWC8 [I learned this nifty technique from @Lucky Phil ]

Get y'all them 'lectric bikes . . . "It'll be . . . An Ol' machine, One day . . ."

Yah, gee whiz, let's see, what makes me want to get up in the morning and put my shoulder into the day . . .

With regard to accuracy, it occurred to me that the cheap meter I carry on the Sport is fine to check battery voltage or continuity (+/- 0.2 volts), but not nearly accurate enough to set the TPS baseline (+/- 0.003 volts?) @red lion, I wonder if your reading is more a limit of your voltmeter and not an actual TPS fault . . .

I don't know nuthin', but feels like a nutrient-enhanced cold protein drink instead of charcoal grilling a trout I caught fly-fishing . . .

IIRC, O'Reilly's lists that correct WIX 51215 for the 2000 V11 Sport. Been using those for many, many miles. Tighten 1 and 1/8 turn past oiled gasket contact. "B" filter cup to remove through the filter access plate. FWIW, I have taken to removing the label sticker, although I have run a few 5,000 miles between oil changes and they did not detach.

https://www.amazon.com/Bessel-Vessel-Difference-Screwdrivers-No-220w-3/dp/B00E55DL4I/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/132-8363138-0164331?pd_rd_w=LfWfK&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=J3K2GWM9QDGY4VCKQZYA&pd_rd_r=adaac56d-fc90-49df-8436-f9a471dbe617&pd_rd_wg=mWzfd&pd_rd_i=B00E55DL4I&psc=1

That will never work. Everyone knows we're suspender people . . . *snap* *snap*

[Quick check @JRD, swap Relay #3 (Neutral Relay, the least stressed in the stack) into Position#2 (from the front) and see if all the functions return. (The Neutral Light will still light, but the V11 might not start with the sidestand down with a faulty middle relay.]

Not strange. All of the missing functions are through Relay #2. The "city light", tail light, tag light and instrument illumination are their own circuit and use no relay.

Simply drain the oil through the lowest point on the back of the sump as if you were changing the oil. Lay down a sheet of cardboard for the few drips that remain. To remove the filter access plate, you can fashion a tool using one of your 27 mm axle nuts.

There you go. Then we gets-us some Moto Goozies and try to play in 9/11 time . . .

Oh, wait, music is way worse than thread pitch and shoe sizes. Sure: base 8 for octaves. Then there is "time" - 4:4. 3:4? 5:7? Change-ups? I remember another musician saying, "It's just A-B-C-D-E-F-G" Yeah, yeah. But NEVER in that order. And there is the the >time signature< and the change-ups and the keys, and chord progressions. No wonder the drummer sometimes scowls at me.