docc

ooooh, I am so busted reaching for too many wrenches. And throttles. And levers. And not enough strings. It occurred to me that I play some "eight to the bar" blues, but thought that ended up being Base 12. No wonder the drummer scowls at me sometimes . . .

The mystery is revealed! The V11 fuel tank is in Base 8!

Yes, black is ground. Isn't yellow the power to the 4 watt "city light"? With the bulb in place, a continuity test can show continuity to ground through the bulb filament, if I am not mistaken. Have you serviced the battery's main grounding point on the right rear of the gearbox? This is a critical point to avoid harness damage . . .

I do love mixing the fractional with the metric along with the ephemeral . . . > about 1/4 of a ml < Temperature is another wildcard. My chemist son specifies that coffee must be extracted from the beans in Celsius degrees (196ºC), yet is to be consumed in degrees Fahrenheit (165ºF). And volumetric measure? A "fifth" is not 1/5 of anything! And while "1 cup" = ~ 200 ml, I still can't think of anything in Base 8 . . . Even "8-Ball" (the pool table game) is in Base 7 + 1 (seven stripes, seven solids + the Eight Ball).

Perhaps it is the color "the V11 was drawn from" by Luciano Marabese .

Also, be aware that your early Sport's front Relay #1 has excessive amperage through the weak NC contact. Use a High Current relay (OMRON G8HE Form C) in that position. Otherwise you are pushing close to 15 amps through a weak 10 amp NC contact. Take the "Livin' Easy Test" for your Relay #1:

Yep. That ground travels back through the entire loom to a ring terminal on the battery. Make certain your battery terminals are clean, tight and treated with some kind of magic like Caig DeOxit Gold®.

Yep. Until now. Be aware you are running a 20 amp (and questionably rated) in a 22.5 amp circuit. 20 amp relays run really hot there (which will affect the connections adversely). Source some OMRON G8HE (35 amp, and honestly rated). Form A/ "1A7T" (4-pin) will work in all V11 positions except the Start Relay, front/#1. Seems onlinecomponents still has the Form A G8HE (High Current 4-pin). Otherwise, members are currently sourcing the 5-pin (Form C) through ebay. ---> OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12

And be certain you are using the "Best Relay" . . .

The fuse block can be pried up out of its rubber isolation blocks (the fasteners do not need to be loosened or removed) to reveal these flinky spade connectors to the front two fuses (Fuel/Igntion and ECU) . . .

Oh, hey, there is another thing to check between the fuse and Relay#5 . . .

+1 on overseas shipping. My recent parts from the UK, The Netherlands, and Israel arrived very efficiently. DSL is amazing. The difference in efficiency clearing US Customs in Cincinnati versus New York is notable, as well.

The very back relay, #5. It is the most stressed relay in the stack, flowing 22.5 amps through the NO contact. Never good for the typical 20 amp micro-ISO relays commonly available.

I tried searching the Brembo USA site for the Brembo part number for the rebuild kit (PHGV11RPSK), but no luck.

Those faces and bezels look really nice with the Veglia!

Ah. Sorry, I missed that is in the UK . . .

@Mikko just posted this in another thread less than a week ago! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-1999-2005-rear-brake-caliper-piston-seal-repair-kit-/162694437725?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

That guzzler-mobile . . .

It is still shifting quite nicely today (relief!) with the wheel properly captured. The wee roller bearing made a very significant difference for me as my original was quite knackered. Thanks, again, @Lucky Phil for the Shift Improvement procedure. Absolutely worthwhile!

Getting back to mySport after an uncharacteristically extensive wrenching session on my little Honda, I had to stop reaching for the 12s and 14s and fall back to the 11, 13, 17, 19 for the Guzzi. "Odd", I know . . .

Preparing to "sport-tour" rather than local riding, the time has come for mySport to slip on a long-sleeve-shirt and a tight-fitting cap . . .

The Waddington Effect, though, is a very specific circumstance. Some "thing" has been worked on (your motorcycle, your car, your truck, your boat, your plane, (your Bomber!) . . . and the result is compromised reliability for a time until the "glitches" and mishaps have been seen to. How many of us have gotten our (fill in the blank) back from the (fill in the blank: mechanic / dealer / factor / motor pool/ our-own-selves) and it fails from some nefarious effect of having been "messed with." > cludged < . . . > farked < . . . > porked < I would go so far as to suggest The Waddington Effect is the documented source study for the adage: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Frankly, those automotive, computerized feedback systems (RCMP) that say when to change the oil do not share my long term ownership goals.