docc

The fuse block can be pried up out of its rubber isolation blocks (the fasteners do not need to be loosened or removed) to reveal these flinky spade connectors to the front two fuses (Fuel/Igntion and ECU) . . .

Oh, hey, there is another thing to check between the fuse and Relay#5 . . .

+1 on overseas shipping. My recent parts from the UK, The Netherlands, and Israel arrived very efficiently. DSL is amazing. The difference in efficiency clearing US Customs in Cincinnati versus New York is notable, as well.

The very back relay, #5. It is the most stressed relay in the stack, flowing 22.5 amps through the NO contact. Never good for the typical 20 amp micro-ISO relays commonly available.

I tried searching the Brembo USA site for the Brembo part number for the rebuild kit (PHGV11RPSK), but no luck.

Those faces and bezels look really nice with the Veglia!

Ah. Sorry, I missed that is in the UK . . .

@Mikko just posted this in another thread less than a week ago! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-1999-2005-rear-brake-caliper-piston-seal-repair-kit-/162694437725?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

That guzzler-mobile . . .

It is still shifting quite nicely today (relief!) with the wheel properly captured. The wee roller bearing made a very significant difference for me as my original was quite knackered. Thanks, again, @Lucky Phil for the Shift Improvement procedure. Absolutely worthwhile!

Getting back to mySport after an uncharacteristically extensive wrenching session on my little Honda, I had to stop reaching for the 12s and 14s and fall back to the 11, 13, 17, 19 for the Guzzi. "Odd", I know . . .

Preparing to "sport-tour" rather than local riding, the time has come for mySport to slip on a long-sleeve-shirt and a tight-fitting cap . . .

The Waddington Effect, though, is a very specific circumstance. Some "thing" has been worked on (your motorcycle, your car, your truck, your boat, your plane, (your Bomber!) . . . and the result is compromised reliability for a time until the "glitches" and mishaps have been seen to. How many of us have gotten our (fill in the blank) back from the (fill in the blank: mechanic / dealer / factor / motor pool/ our-own-selves) and it fails from some nefarious effect of having been "messed with." > cludged < . . . > farked < . . . > porked < I would go so far as to suggest The Waddington Effect is the documented source study for the adage: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Frankly, those automotive, computerized feedback systems (RCMP) that say when to change the oil do not share my long term ownership goals.

Interesting. My gearbox shifted so much better after the (mis)assembly. I was surprised at the amount of axial play of the cam wheels on the shafts when I assembled it correctly. Tomorrow I'll find out if the shift improvement remains, or if it is better that the cam wheel(s) sit more inboard . . .

Yeah, it's all dos-y-dos until the single point of failure. I don't want to be That Guy. Again.

Once again: I am six weeks to the (Seventeenth) South'n SpineRaid and I am flirting with the Waddington Effect. Determined to seal leaks from my gearbox preselector plate, I removed it last week (and installed a roller bearing on the "indexer" arm). A circlip failed to capture and the Neutral Switch failed (Waddington!!) on a 207 mile shakedown ride. (Otherwise, shifted fabulously!) That is corrected today, but required the preselector to be removed and reinstalled/ resealed. My question: Since there was an additional service procedure, does the "Waddington Clock" get reset? Another ten hours of operation to re-establish reliability/ "roadworthiness"?

Agreed. It is a fiddly enough operation without fiddly connections (pinning and back-probing connections). The Break-out Harness reduces the fiddlinessness. @po18guy's direct meter connections are brilliant and take out even more of the fiddly connections.

So, yep, the lower cam wheel circlip had jumped it's groove allowing the wheel to move inboard against the "banana plate" where it would not actuate the Neutral Switch. Since it was against the plate retained by its own circlip, it felt solid pushing it or striking it with a punch through the switch hole. The circlip was retained on the shaft, so it wasn't going to drop off and get onto the gearbox. I was leery of rotating the cam wheels on the bench as I knew they were in neutral (and marked them as @Lucky Phil did) and didn't want to risk getting them out of synch with the gearbox. Yet, as @Scud said: Glad to have it sorted (checkride tomorrow). Thank you all for your replies and encouragement. Thank you @MartyNZ (once again, I might add! )

Nothing wrong with, "Run it. Ride it. Rev it. Rip it!" I suppose it is possible the TPS is faulty. Does it show any jumps, drops, or opens as you slowly open and close it? (FWIW, I cannot detect these glitches in mV, but do see them reading resistance in kΩ across the potentiometer with no voltage applied.)

> The pandemic crushes the dream of the Guzzisti: no gathering in the year of the Centenary Due to the covid restrictions, the event scheduled from 6 to 12 September is skipped. Appointment postponed to 2022. The mayor of Mandello: "There are no conditions to offer an event that lives up to expectations"

It appears the individual July/August 2018 issue that contains this article can be backordered individually without a subscription. For those not familiar, Motorcycle Classics is very well produced, expertly authored, and features spectacular photography.

The question reminds me of this thread . . .

While you are cleaning the throttle plate edges and the throttle bore, and throttle shaft - see if you can locate the air bypass hole on the inside of the throttle bore and apply some kind of release agent. A fifty-fifty mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is a known contender ("Ed's Red"). Dab a bit up into the air bypass recess from the outside, as well. Let it sit a overnight and maybe apply some heat from a hot air gun. Insert a screwdriver blade into the slot and give it a sharp * RAP * with a little hammer, perhaps even while turning the screwdriver in then out, in then out. Those screws and their channels benefit from a periodic cleaning...