docc

This is less so on the earlier "ShortFrame" V11. I found that once I had selected fork and shock springs for my weight and "sag", and biased the sag more toward the front, I get the best handling moving forward "behind the tank" and weighting the front. One of the simplest adjustments is to be certain the steering damper is backed completely off (set to the least damping).

I can speak from substantial experience and close personal knowledge that any silver V11 Sport which has sat for ten years due to electrical issues is wanting for one key solution: V11LeMans.com

Makes me feel rather scolded. "What is a small and puny ant, like you, doing hanging around Muscles Mahoney's Gym, anyway?" Seriously, we are the largest collective V11 community in the world and no one here has used this lift?

Interesting. I tried that, also "back in the day", only discovering later that my Sport responded markedly better to the exact opposite (low mass Engine Temperature Sensor Holder modification). Differ'nt animules, we all is.

Or on the grounding side. So many ring terminals, so little space. So easy to drop one on a battery change. Very happy the "revisit" yielded the desired outcome, @Taxguy

So, is it lifting from the foot peg anchor? Or actually from below the bike ? (I could not tell from the video). Such that the "footpeg" attachments are only to prevent tip-over?

That would be curious as we have never heard of them here, AFIIK.

That our V11 footpegs are folding would not be compatible with lifting through them?

So, that will only work from the front of the frame side plate once the driveshaft retaining shield has been relieved/ cut for access?

Here are the two images Joe Caruso sent me relative to this comments about the Camshaft Thrust Flange and its potential wear: "The other important items to check before fitting the Timing Gears is the Camshaft Thrust Flange as in the photos attached. As it wears the Camshaft Gear moves closer to the pick up sensor. Depending on the mileage of your bike then If your Flange has worn a ridge as in the second photo attached then you might possibly have too much Camshaft end float . They should be flat and measure 7.0 mm thick when new. If yours is within measurement and Flat you could add the 3 x oil cutouts in yourself to your existing flange and i could send a sketch with measurements. The new CNC replacements have 3 x oil cut outs and give better lubrication to reduce wear in this area and so these wear a lot better and If required these cost £90 each. These were fitted by the Factory as standard on some later models like the V11 and Daytona."

What with it being an early ShortFrame, I would be surprised. Do tell if you can find some way to make that happen short of pulling the swingarm or . . .

The Camshaft Thrust Flange and the desirable relief cuts are discussed in Lucky Phil's "Joe caruso timing gear install" thread. I am unclear if any of the relief cut Camshaft Thrust Flanges were fitted to any V11 motors?

I am seeing there are likely some other costs to include: a cam bush with the additional oil reliefs, fresh seals, and perhaps oil pump bearings depending on the accumulated miles/kays. Here is a reply from Joe Caruso regarding the current availability and advice regarding his timing gears for the V11 Moto Guzzi. (Posted here with his permission.): Hi Docc Thank you for the email and comments regarding Timing Gears for your V11 it is appreciated. It has been a very interesting learning curve getting the gears made for the various models and there is more to it than meets the eye so i really can understand why no one else bothers as it is very easy to get it wrong especially regarding the tooth clearances. I looked into first getting them made as i wanted steel straight cut for all my own bikes which are all 70s Guzzis v7 sport lm1 and t3 and because i previously had personal very bad experiences with the aftermarket Aluminium gears that were available at the time. The Timing Gears are all made to order in batches and do take a long time to get them made. The Gear Manufacturer has only just started working again after a long closure due to the Covid situation and so is very busy and also has a back log of work from previous orders. I have 4 valve Daytona models to make next and then V7 so it will be later in the year before anything might be ready. The Total current price for 1 x set of V 11 Steel straight cut Timing Gears, including Tracked Postage to USA, is £675.00 UK pounds . Out of interest The combined weight of the new 3 x Steel Gears is about the same if not a bit lighter than the combined weight of the 3 x Chain Sprockets and Timing chain that you are removing. _____________________________________________________________________________________ The other important items to check before fitting the Timing Gears is the Camshaft Thrust Flange as in the photos attached. As it wears the Camshaft Gear moves closer to the pick up sensor. Depending on the mileage of your bike then If your Flange has worn a ridge as in the second photo attached then you might possibly have too much Camshaft end float. They should be flat and measure 7.0 mm thick when new. If yours is within measurement and Flat you could add the 3 x oil cutouts in yourself to your existing flange and i could send a sketch with measurements. The new CNC replacements have 3 x oil cut outs and give better lubrication to reduce wear in this area and so these wear a lot better and If required these cost £90 each. These were fitted by the Factory as standard on some later models like the V11 and Daytona. The Oil Pump Bearings also need to be checked to be in good condition so the pump Timing gear runs true There is no deposit required or any payment until the gears are all ready and with me and i will update you nearer the time but you are on the next V11 order for sure. Payment by Bank Transfer is probably the best and cheapest when the time comes because if Payment is made by Paypal i would have to pass the Paypal charges on which are quite high. Thanks for the order Best Regards Joe

I didn't check more than one currency converter when I posted the values above. As it changes continually, it is only an estimate until the actual exchange occurs. An email to Joe will tell you if shipping to Australia differs from the US. Joe described other issues that may need attention on the installation. He gave me permission to post his comments, and I will likely do so this evening. Again, I am pretty sure these are the same matters so carefully detailed by Luck Phil having to do with the cam bush and the oil pump bearings:

CORRECTION! I've edited my post to show that Joe is hoping to have the V11 gears done "by the end of the year." (What I posted previously was my misread.)

Joe replied to my email immediately and offered considerable additional information that I will try and post later. I believe much of this has been included in Lucky Phil's installation thread. Joe did say there are Daytona and V7 gear runs ahead of the V11, so ours will probably be by the end of the year. The cost of £675 UK Pounds is, today, $924USD ($1258AUD) including shipping (to the USA).

Valid point to see the cost relative to the factory parts. I could not find the cost of the Valtek tensioner to include. This makes the extra few hundred dollars seem absolutely sane. I knew I could count on my fellow inmates on the ward. GU01054500 Timing System Gear $298.77 GU14072001 Pinion 139.96 GU28058060 Chain 70.35 GU30057810 Chain Tensioner 68.76 GU30147700 Oil Pump Gear 138.18 $686.02 USD

Yah, the wisdom of spending $1000US on my eight-hundred-dollar Sport begs the sanity question. I'll ask the other inmates on the ward if I'm really crazy. Cleaning up the map looks like good method, and actually not that difficult, it seems. Those points in the table where the advance suddenly jumps 20º look ungood, if not absurd or alarming.

I have to "block" the factory stand with a section of "4x4" post to get the rear tire clear of the lift deck. The polyethylene kitchen cutting board makes the lift so much easier. Yet the whole affair is very slippery . . . Strapping the front into the Baxley SportChock (clamped to the lift) is very secure. (Until the front has to also come off!)

email sent to Joe.

Yes, indeed. Tom! (The fuse block simply pries up out of the rubber isolation mounts without having to remove the fasteners.) These: By far the most common no-start after a battery change is one of the several ring terminals getting left off.

I don't recall anyone fitting these to a later V11 above the triple. From below, they are about the same height as the later "top mounts," but further forward. Assuming you have enough extension in the cables, lines, and wring they would make an interesting riser, albeit with a longer reach. The rise would put the center of the grip 3 1/2"/ 90mm above the top triple tree.

Fuses One and Two (from the front), Relay #5 (in the back), and that a ring terminal did not get left off the battery on either side (+/-)…….

The "riser" is from the early Sport. Those forks do not protrude above the top triple clamp like the later V11, and so mounted below. The three holes provide selection of position while still connecting the clip on to the triple clamp from below. Perhaps it was changed to accommodate the fork change? Perhaps to address complaints and reports of vibration. I'm not sure "why" translates into Italian, at least not at Moto Guzzi . . .