docc

Our own @Paradiso !

The V11 factory stand only lifts the rear. Awkwardly. Once on the factory stand, the front can be lifted with a platform jack under the sump. PLEASE be certain the platform is fully seated under the sump, not lifting from an edge or a corner. And PLEASE either tie your V11 down to the lift or to joists above ("chain fall"). With both wheels off the V11 on the factory stand and sump on the edge of a platform scissor jack, you are halfway to a bad day. Don't ask me how I know.

How does the Ducati 939 compare to a traditional V11 Sport, @LowRyter?

You could still pull this off, @p6x . . . you've done it before . . .

1001 . . . a numerical palindrome! What a great way to get to love your V11 Le Mans!

It feels like as long as the chain is in tension from the motor accelerating, she pulls awesomely. Stellar. Try to just roll along at some singular rpm and she hiccups like the St. Vitus Dance the Veglia speedometer used to do. While I would prefer to be accelerating all the time, it is not always possible. Or permissible. (Always planning my 200.000 kilometer service interval. I even noticed a little wet spot on the timing chest to get me more worked up . . . . . . OOOH! A LITTLE WET SPOT! BETTER GET SOME CARUSO GEARS! )

More accurate and stable timing signal and valve timing, maybe? Dunno, but y'all-boys had me feeling my sloppy chain the whole time riding today . . . Guzzichondria strikes again.

How great to see this V11 out&about! Welldone, Sir! @jetboy, would you post a summary of what stopped your bike the first time? And, perhaps, an addendum of what confused the issue on reassembly? TIA!

The GB is equipped with an oil "Separator" attached to the front of the airbox to split the liquid and vapor portions of the crankcase venting (much like the frame spine does on the V11). From new, the GBs were known to wet the front of the air filter with oil, especially with Grade 2 ("dino") base oils when run hard at high rpm (me!). This was much improved after using a Grade 5, full ester, true synthetic base oil (RedLine). Once I discovered an Aussie racer-type using an open hose to vent the crankcase to the tail cowl above the head, "Triumph-style", I installed the vent on my GB and blocked the separator from the airbox. (Yeah, the GB just got a refresh at 51,000 miles. Plus, I returned to a "dino" oil.) This all makes me think a couple things about the V11 crankcase venting. Next tank-off, I'd like to inspect the lower banjo bolt and flow through the return line as @Tinus89 noted. Also, I wonder if this wetness @Grim showed us is lessened on V11 running Grade 4 or Grade 5 full synthetics (not the more common faux-synth using Grade 2 base or using Grade 2 "dino" oils. Heat evaporation is significant with these oils and absent with the Grade4/5 ).

My GB's closed venting would oil contaminate the air filter ridiculously. It went "atmospheric" long ago . . . > Watch yer eyes! <

No matter what, those true High Current G8HE Form-C relays will serve well. If there is any "micro-ISO relay" with equal or better capacity: bring it on! It is always good to know which of the relays in our stack are the most stressed, and the least. With this, we know which to switch around (if needed).

Relays might be sold by the gram, but not springs! Sold by the each! Just beware if the "first one's free!"

More like "by the gram." Notice how the vintage triple beam balances come out . . .

MG Cycle ain't got none? Harper's?

Sorry, that was kinda "ranty," I suppose. The set point from amber to green on the SparkBright is 13.2 volts, so a little above battery voltage (assuming a fully charged AGM is 12.84v), but still a full volt below the V11 regulator set-point (14.2v) or the minimum float charge voltage range (13.5-13.8)v. It will remain amber between 12.45 and 13.2.

That's a good question. The V11 alternator/regulator combo is "set" to 14.2V. An optimally functioning V11 charging system should throw this voltage at least from 2000-2500 rpm, but probably not at idle. Unfortunately, there are far too many V11 being expected to idle too low (IMO), complicated by tachometers that "may" read optimistically. A tach reading 300 rpm off with an owner expecting a 1000 rpm idle (too low!) is actually idling at 700 rpm. Way too low for charging. Probably too low for idle stability and even too low for decent oiling/cooling. I think (just my opinion/observations) that too many V11 owners also let their AGM battery fall below the Odyssey 12.65v charge threshold, then expect our flinky charging system to bring it back up. Probably asking too much. The melty 30 amp "charging"/regulator fuse, regulator diodes, regulator ground path, and stator wires would likely agree . . . If I were to install one of these very clever, well designed LED voltage monitors, I would customize the voltage breaks for the Odyssey PC545 AGM.

Oh, my! My buddy with the 1200 Sport is gonna love this!!

Well, since the hammer is big enough, must be an electrical problem . . . I suspect the difference from the V11 is the middle relay (where that turn signal flasher is) is not present on the 1100 Sport-i (Neutral/"sidestand" relay that is triggered by the Neutral Switch on the V11 6speeder). Otherwise, I wonder about the functions on those four, front to back: Start; Lights/etc; ECU; Fuel/Ignition ? And, if so, Have you administered the "Livin' Easy Test?"

+1 on the 20.0 grams with my analog method. For comparison, my original Seimans are 15.1 grams. [ Note that "sealed" relays and those with wider coil contact blades add weight without adding capacity.] I have edited the "Answer" post to direct buyers to ebay. Please continue to post reliable, available sources of these desirable components. Also, it occurred to me that @Pressureangle is using these in an 1997 1100 Sport-i. I am not sure the sequence or number of relays on that model. Are there still five relays in a row?

The difference in infrared temperature readings between other relays and these High Current OMRON (especially in Position #5) by different members was really telling. The components that add up to that weight difference certainly matter.

There are >many< variations on this same topic. To the point of this particular thread, do be sure your CO Fuel Trim is (at least) set to zero.

Oh, but this is what we live for, yes? No question that a dedicated enthusiast, "with a little help from his friends", can make these V11 run very much better. Even "really nicely" . . .

Also, good to realize the V11 has a fairly aggressive camshaft profile and only two valves for the rather large bore (rather inefficient at lower revs) combined with a light (for a Guzzi!) flywheel that does not damp the power pulses well at the lower (below 4000 rpm) revs. Also, the tachometers can be optimistic and an indicated 4,000 rpm might actually be as low as 3,500 (so that an indicated 3,000 might be 2,500-2800). Very unhappy territory for the V11. As in Texas, this time of year in the US "deep south" is very hot and humid. I always revel in the coming of autumn and when I feel the combined atmospheric conditions must match those in Mandello del Lario - the Sport knows this in its core and runs like a Labrador Retriever between the truck and the lake!

If any one, or a combination, of the tuning parameters are off it could contribute to this behavior. It is very common that the factory CO Fuel Trim setting is in the very negative range. That is, of course, a specific and important step in the Decent Tune-up (zero the CO Fuel Trim). This behavior is also common to a bad TPS. I have never been able to diagnose the TPS looking at millivoltage, but have found bad ones by watching the resistance across the TPS while slowly opening and closing the throttle looking for skips, jumps, or open readings. That said, the V11 is really not happy in these very high temperatures or at those low RPM. The combination can be particularly aggravating. So, simply riding in a lower gear to let the motor rev more freely may be all that is needed . . .

Are we trying to "get an order up" for Joe to do a run?