docc

What with the surprising results I got from simply cleaning my leaking fork seals, I added this to The Checklist . . . [edit June 2022: This lasted 5,000 miles/ 8.000 km before having to repeat. Surprisingly good outcome!]

The RM (Rosso Mandello) of [corrected]: 2001 had a different, smoother, finish than the 2002 V11s and did not fail like the “wrinkle” paint.

That is delicious! More, please!!

I've really been enjoying the new format of the American Motorcyclist Association magazine with Mitch Boehm as editor. This month, they feature the 50th anniversary of the Bruce Brown documentary film "On Any Sunday." Evidently, it has been remastered and prepared to re-release onto "big screens" on a limited basis. Somehow, I missed this in 1971 and came to the Magic of Motorcycling rather late. I'm guessing many of you know about this epic film already. The closing musical score is moving, of itself . . .

I have never heard of a Tenni, or a Scura, without the paint (and flywheel) issues. If anyone has one with the later satin (not "wrinkle-flake") driveline paint, this would be a great place to post! I have been immensely impressed with folks' efforts to correct these issues. Neither are easy tasks (especially the paint thing).

Yeah, that ain't right. I'll defer to the experts here. Maybe the LocTite will be adequate (pretty sure the Green is correct for that application). Any signs that the outer bearing race was rotating in the housing? Did you measure the length of the internal wheel bearing spacer?

I learned (from the learned) that beating a bearing out unevenly, especially repeatedly, can oval or expand the housing area. Ideally, a puller should be used. And the freeze/heat method to extract and install along with a clean, greased surface for the bearing to capture within. Just how easily did the new bearing slide in? Like "finger tight?" As in you can stick a finger in it and pull it back out?

Those fasteners don't come out willingly, typically requiring replacement. I suppose someone has been in there before you . . . Isn't there a "LocTite" type product specifically for anchoring that sort of bearing to race surface? It's the "Green," yes?

Have you checked directly with Stucchi Luigi? (Although I am not finding the V11 fairing on their website . . .O https://officinestucchi.it/en/

I saw @Kostarika gave a like to this image in @Baldini's "Show us your Tontis!" thread, and thought: Yeah! This what a Spine Raid is like . . . Can't wait!!

Is the sticker on the swingarm? When my Sport was crashed in 2003, the replacement swingarm came from Germany (A big thanks, again, to @Paul Minnaert for making that happen!), but it is devoid of all of the US Federal labels. I never thought to transfer them from my original swingarm. . . . thinking maybe a brief swingarm transplant . . .

Does it become an "antique" at some point in your state and the EPA thing becomes moot? (In Tennessee, that would be next year for your '97.)

Cheer up, y'all . . . https://www.motorkari.cz/clanky/clanky-divka-mesice/monika-moto-guzzi-stelvio-tt-13264.html?kid=9791

@doslemans just made a reservation and Walt told him two rooms left . . . There are other places around, of course.

The early Sport flyscreen is a fiberglass Stucchi. Four years ago, they were still available, with the mounts, from Stucchi in Italy (unpainted). https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/gallery/album/240-stucchi-fairing-hardware/

Message @Rolf Halvorsen from his profile: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/profile/10410-rolf-halvorsen/

Yeah, well, they got quite >JEM< quiet after the noise stopped . . . (Here, again, I had a short wheel bearing spacer, 112mm - not the correct 113mm, but those JEM SKF ate up in no time and left me stranded on failed new bearings.)

The SKF that failed me were not the SKF 6204-2RSH/C3 as @Grim sourced. (These had rather thin inner races as shown in the image posted): SKF 6204 2RSJEM (Made in Argentina) I understand the increased radial tolerance of the C3, and 2RS (two rubber seals), but do not know what the difference in the suffixes "H" and "JEM" might specify . . . Looks like "H" could mean case-hardened inner ring (good!) and the "J" : "stamped steel cage" (bad?) . . .

With the nut done up, I have 5mm exposed thread. I can't measure the bolt length in place, but I wouldn't want >zero< exposed threads if the bolt should be 165mm (rather than 160). My fastener source (McMaster-Carr) does not offer a "partially threaded" bolt in this specification with enough "pivot area" for this application . . .

Can't you measure your banana-bolt for length? It is the length of the shaft without the head, yes?

I was only saying 165mm from the Gutsibits description. From this image (assuming 165mm overall length, looks like about 150mm of smooth pivot shaft (no threads) . . . I would not want my swingarm and shock eye pivoting on exposed threads . . .

165 mm length, yes? Also, best if not fully threaded the entire length, but whatever it is called when there is a length of smooth "shaft" before the threads for the pivoting area of the shock and the two swingarm "bosses" . . .

Now you have me wondering if you have a banana-shaped mount bolt, do you have a banana-shaped swingarm . . . Will a straight 12mm bolt slide through the mounting bosses of the swingarm?

@Grim, I see Gutsibits in the UK has a used shock bolt: https://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheShop/index.php?q=98610616&f=d&Model=1&search=SEARCH They also show the spec: M12 x 165mm (12.9)

That's a good question! At one South'n SpineRaid we declared the TechSession would be to measure the offset of every SpineFrame we could sneak up on. Thinking they would all be "offset" to the right - they were all over the place! Then, the observation that the best set-up SpineFrames did not have their swingarms "offset." I saw that my painstaking laser method had my offset something like 0.030". I put that down to method error! So, now I wind the pivots in until they capture the swingarm bearing inner races with equal tension and equal depth ("Standoff" of the exposed threaded portion), then relieve the lateral tension on the bearing (proper freeplay). That last bit from our trusted member @gstallons who deals with these sorts of things on a daily basis.