docc

That's a good question! At one South'n SpineRaid we declared the TechSession would be to measure the offset of every SpineFrame we could sneak up on. Thinking they would all be "offset" to the right - they were all over the place! Then, the observation that the best set-up SpineFrames did not have their swingarms "offset." I saw that my painstaking laser method had my offset something like 0.030". I put that down to method error! So, now I wind the pivots in until they capture the swingarm bearing inner races with equal tension and equal depth ("Standoff" of the exposed threaded portion), then relieve the lateral tension on the bearing (proper freeplay). That last bit from our trusted member @gstallons who deals with these sorts of things on a daily basis.

(Left to right: Romanian Koyo C3 / Xhinese "National" bought as Federal Mogul / Argentinian SKF ):

I searched the Workshop Manual for a torque spec on those lock nuts, but no. It does illustrate measuring the standoff of the pivot pins before removal with a caliper to return them to that position. I have painstakingly done this in the past, even using a laser to align the front and rear. Yet found that the swingarm is basically centered in the frame side plates with a slight relief of any lateral load on the center of the bearing race. Good luck with your SKF. I also knew them to be "decent quality" before the last SKF (I'll ever buy) failed on me almost immediately. They lasted long enough to give me a 310 mile tow truck ride. I now know that my rear wheel bearing spacer was 112mm and not the correct 113mm, but my bearings had been going 15-20,000 miles. Not a couple hundred! Upon comparing to the KOYO, the inner race of the SKF looks very "underbuilt."

The shock mount bolt is 12.9 hardness. The swingarm lock nuts are 30mm (I see that I had to add a 30mm socket to my toolset).

Early Workshop Manual shows the drive side wheel bearing as 20X47X14. AFAIK, the later wheels used the exact same bearings. Source QUALITY bearings. I have settled on KOYO C3 after all of my rear axle bearing nightmares (internal spacer 1 mm too short!). I don't see the dimensions of the bolt fasteneing the lower shock eye to the swingarm, but the PN is GU98610616. (Perhaps we can find its specification with that PN.) With that bolt bent, do VERY CAREFULLY inspect the shock eye! They are prone to cracking/breaking!

Last question first: Nope, the swingarm lock nuts should lock the pivots in the correct positions that center the swingarm and provide proper freeplay for the swingarm bearings. With the swingarm out, check the condition of the swingarm bearings. The rotational play is normal. And additive. The V11 tire will roll some 2 1/2 inches/ 6 cm back and forth with the gearbox in gear. Pumping the cavity of the driveshaft housing with too much grease can create a sort of hydrolock (greasolock?) for the two shaft parts to slide together as the suspension compresses. Might even make it impossible to slide the two parts back together to assemble. Pretty sure I have the spec on that bearing, but will have to dig around a bit . . .

Heads-up, SpineRaiders: @Blueboarhound stayed at The Lodge at Tellico a few days ago. Walt told him there is another group at The Lodge during SSR XVII and there are three rooms left. Not sure about garage space, but we can generally get two or three Guzzis in one space. Pretty sure HondaScott is still riding down from upstate NY and would like to split a room. He offered to send the money up front. If anyone has a spot for him, PM me for contact info.

It is hard for me to fathom e-commerce as a valid avenue to purchase something as personal, and expensive, as a motorcycle. Maybe because I am such a sliver, and unimportant, market segment that "marries" my selections. I remember a time that, "An enthusiast is worth ten sales." I had thought that was a Ford Motor Company phrase, but IDK for sure. That Moto Guzzi still exists at all, and has plans to move forward, yet amazes me.

So, "Beetle map" for 1200s and "Meinolf map" for V11? (What do I know, the Poster Child for the factory set-up . . . .)

Interesting take on "improving" the Moto Guzzi dealership network. One thing for certain, there will never be a substitute for the ingenuity and generosity of fellow enthusiasts . . .

The lens certainly looks symmetrical (universal).

Nicely done, Sir! Taking time to address the rear axle is good method. Be especially mindful of the right, outboard needle cage, sleeve, and washer between the reardrive and swingarm. These should be liberally greased with a waterproof grease regularly lest the sealing surface of the crown wheel be destroyed. Isn’t it a great feeling to make your V11 better?

Oh, boy! We get hear some JoeGears!

Every time I look at the way the light falls across that image, I think it distills the basic elements of the V11 Sport: A lot of motor, a shapely way to give it fuel, a clear sense of direction, and a place to hang on . . .

More Black Arts!

So, if a bike ends up inscribed, or otherwise tattooed, does that give it its name?

South'n SpineRaid, ten years ago, the Sport looks poised and ready to pounce. Would that she yet will . . .

@Bbennett, what is the status of the relays on your Sport? I ask because the V11 Relay #5 has to carry 22.5 amps, continuous, to the fuel pump, injectors, and coils. Under-rated relays (20 amp NO) get hot and fail. This shows up, then, as a "heat related" fuel and ignition failure. (I would still make sure there is more than 3/4 gallon of fuel in that tank. A couple gallons and try again . . .)

It is always good to know what makes one crazy. Sometimes, people are crazy and no one knows why . . .

So, that is the regulator. It should remain stationary (no adjustment). The "rod" (circled in green) is open to atmosphere and is typically oriented facing forward. These things don't sound like the issue. Interesting comments about fuel line failures. Maybe even fuel filter? Or fuel pump failure? No way it could be an under-rated relay failing in Position #5?

" c. 3 days ago fuel tank drained*, new fuel (from working Honda bike) added. I was careful to get fuel into both lobes of tank - me not being sure which side sucks the fuel. Still, the fuel tank is not full. I would estimate there is only 3/4 of a gallon in the bike. d. *When tank was drained it was removed. Upon installation of the tank I turned the rod on right side all the way counterclockwise (see pic). The knob on the left is fully turned clockwise. ***Is this correct?*** Elec connectors were mated under tank as per usual. " Regarding your "c", above, my testing indicates the right lobe will trap 3/4 US gallon of fuel in the right "lobe." Perhaps you will benefit from adding another full gallon of fuel. Regarding "d": 1) Fuel is tapped from the left lobe through the petcock. Your manual petcock is visible in your first picture and the knurled knob on its bottom should be turned fully on (counterclockwise looking up at it from below). Make sure your left side petcock fully open (counterclockwise). These directions are as if you are looking up at the petcock, so the arrow direction in your image looks correct, but worth verifying. 2) I am having trouble understanding what you mean by "the rod on the right side." What is pictured in your second image is the regulator with the fuel line that returns unused fuel to the right (trap) lobe and should not be turned. Can you clarify what you turned on the right side?

Simply to plug the vacuum tap. After removing mine repeatedly too many times, the threads became damaged. I went back to the brass nipples and a cap (silicone caps hold up better than rubber).

It occurs to me to ask @Bbennett: original, early electric petcock? Not yet converted to a manual petcock?

For myself, I don't think I've ever had a moot pint.

So, I go to get an O-ring for the brake pedal stop on the Sport and the conversation turns from "What's this for? Something weird?" to "Are you a player?" to: check out this steel player and how these things are tuned . . .