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@Purloined, here's an image from the rear with the swingarm removed, and also the lower subframe (gearbox and swingarm intact). Gives you a view of how the frame sideplates are assembled

Yeah, that probably wasn't a great image to post, but it shows the frame side plates in all their dangling glory. No, the gearbox doesn't have to come out to get to the frame sideplates. Mine was out to get to that input hub failure. Scud posted an excellent sequence, above. We'll all pop by for Step #7, after the paint . . .

Heh, Emmy Lou was consoling my dismay. What looks like the rear drive is actually the front of the gearbox turned sideways, sitting on a box. I mentioned the actual fault above being that the input hub safety washer had failed. Took the time to seal all of the oil weeps and replace the clutch friction discs/springs. Yeah, pretty sure you can remove a sideplate without too much drama. Some of those nuts on the back side are hard to get a tool on.

As gstallons said, above, " . . . maybe one at a time?" (I would still do all the supporting to make reassembly more reliable. Also, taking off one at a time, you might be able to leave the swingarm in place.) I just now noticed, in that dramatic view of the frame side plates dangling like stilettos, the culprit of that necessity is clearly visible. The special hold-down nut in the gearbox input hub seen at the far left is clearly flush with the surface of the hub. It's retention/safety washer had failed and it walked off, fouling the clutch release.

These pretty things? If the engine/gearbox are supported and the rear subframe/tail section are hung from above, the frame side plates can be removed after removing the swingarm. Are you looking to refinish them? Or something else is afoot? . . . and, yes, image above is on a hosting site (imgzeit) . . .

Good thing that line was on the floor to keep him back. . . .

Seems these sump and valve over gaskets aren't just plain paper. Not sure what their exact composition is? I suppose I should replace my original valve cover gaskets at some point. They still don't leak, but are starting to look a little sketchy. I replaced my sump gasket a while back chasing internal "bell housing" leaks. It really wasn't leaking, though. So, "Hylomar" (or an equivalent) on one side of the gasket to make things easier to take apart later? [edit: FWIW, the plate is not above the sump, but above the sump spacer, yes?]

Looks to be the Timing Sensor. So, important, indeed!

I can't find a three wire connector in the wiring diagrams, so not sure what that one does. But none of them are "extra." After one of my tank-off events, I failed to re-seat a connector well enough and had to take it all down again to draw up this connector with a bar clamp and anchor it with a stout Zip-tie. Problem solved. Good to clean and treat (DeOxit) our connectors, but be certain to re-seat them well!

Which connector are we looking for here? Right or left side of the spine frame? This'n on the right side?

Pray tell? Which connector are we looking for?

Shocking! Not lire?

Not necessarily a bad thing that it has a Speedhut GPS speedometer, but not good for collector value. Mecum is a pretty classy venue for a V11. Perhaps it will outsell the BaT Coppa Italia!

I thought this might be the same V11 that just sold for $9,946US on bringatrailer, but no! Is there a way to see what it sells for?

I'm fascinated by the man who has four variations of the V11. Two ShortFrames, two LongFrames/ Three Sports and a LeMans . . . Care to elaborate, @Guzzimax?

Outstanding! Another source for the British-made Champion resistor caps for the early Sports. I like the look of these better than the later (NGK?) on V11. Everyone should have spares in the Monkey Paw Trap under the seat (as well as a couple replacement spark plugs). For your buddy's Guzzi that got tipped over and predictably breaks these parts. "The Green Spark Plug Company LTD" also looks to have the proper red plug wires . . .

This was the final drive oil in a Moto Guzzi bottle that had the moly premixed. When I couldn't get it from Guzzi anymore, I found the Motul product and the specification looked identical. It was my presumption that Motul had provided the product to Moto Guzzi.

IIRC, that Motul (with moly) is the original formulation for the Moto Guzzi V11 "Final Drive Oil." Seems it went "no longer available" long ago? Hence, the common substitution of RedLine ShockProof with its "synthetic moly" . . . .

TPS is conspicuously absent from @Gerry_L's extensive listing . . .

Hey, the GEI may have been better than the Bosch. Which were better relays than the Tyco, that were better than both versions of the Seimans. Then we learn that the G8HE OMRON is heads-and-shoulders better than the G8HN. "Best Relay" is a concept that was derived, partly, through this long thread. Again, thanks to so many dedicated contributors. Yet, we cannot neglect the other significant "hiccup"/misfire/stumble sources. (esp: TPS, CO Fuel Trim, 30 amp fuse failure) . . . Gotta cover all the bases!

And there is no way to clean or maintain them?

Just reviewed this ten+ year-long thread. Restored some links and images and refreshed my memory of all the contributors. "Thank you, gentlemen! " is yet appropriate. Like so many conditions involving complex systems, a V11 "Nasty Hiccup" is likely "multi-causal." In this case: Weak/under-rated relays + bad TPS + negative CO Fuel Trim setting + faulty coil wire connection + failed 30 amp charge fuse = *Nasty Hiccup*! (At one point in those ten+years, even loose intake clamps made a contribution to the elusive badness . . .)

This outlook reminds me of chasing MySport's "Nasty Hiccup" for over ten years. I learned a lot, addressed many issues, and even found a few contributors. Two that come to mind, without reviewing that entire thread, were a mildly faulty TPS and a badly corroded/broken contact inside one of the coil boots (both easy to check). I have never been able to detect a glitch in the TPS output watching changes in mV, but instead set to a sensitive resistance setting (Ω) and very slowly open and close the throttle plate watching for jumps and opens. The coil wire fault was a very satisfying find!

"I'm gonna break my rusty cage. And run."