docc

" - Dismantle main switch and check contactors and soldering." @Gerry_L , if this means the key-activated "Ignition Switch", by all means: yes! 20A OMRON (G8HN ?) are not full-on High Current OMRON (G8HE) . . . vital for Position#5 (Fuel/Ignition)! And Position #1 on an early Sport! > High Current < relay positions! There are also the weak, hidden spade connectors under the fuse block to fuses #1/#2 (Fuel/Ignition and ECU): Otherwise, it's Tank Off Maintenance Checklist and another Decent Tune-up to catch up all the stray issues . . .

Someone left the gate open and the Sport gassed up. docc bolted!

MySport's been parked for over a month leaking fork oil into a catch pan while my "other bike" is on the lift. Pretty sure the fussy Italian girl just had to pitch her hissy-fit. I have the seals in the pile, just need the lift. But the little Honda is waiting on a NOS cam. From Israel. Gonna be a minute . . . So, I decide there is nothing to be lost by using the SealMate® that @Mikkosent me a couple years ago. Without any real hopes, the left fork went 118 miles today and stayed dry! Shocked! So, I cleaned the right and feel like we're back on the road. Thanks @Mikko ! !

First, regarding the bar-mounted switchgear: very easy to access, clean with contact cleaner (I use CRC Electronics Cleaner) then Caig DeOxit. The Caig product actually has a cleaner in it , so the CRC is really not necessary. Very simple, yet oft neglected maintenance item. Sheesh . . . I wonder when I did mine last . . . The clutch lock-out is not relay based. There is a microswitch at the lever that connects through two "bullet" connectors on the forward left side of the frame under the tank. Another V11 No-Start Drill: Pull in the clutch lever, hold down the starter button and rotate the bars side to to side, fully. If the starter activates, the fault is with the nefarious bullet connectors. Sometimes, you may be able to access them, clean/crimp/Caig DeOxit and heat shrink them with out removing the tank (but it's tight, especially with the LeMans fairing). Groomed and sealed clutch switch bullet connectors, center of view between the two large connectors: @Gmc28, A V11 that starts without pulling in the clutch may have one or more causes: 1) A previous owner has defeated the "safety" feature. Perhaps by unplugging said bullet connectors and installing a jump wire, or even cutting the wires and twisting them together, or connecting the two wires with a crimp-on "ScotchLock." 2) The microswitch has gone faulty and stuck closed. 3) The actuator in the channel at the lever that should allow that pressure on the switch to release (and close the switch) has gone missing leaving the switch unpressed as if the lever is always pulled away from the switch. If you put your ear close to the switch, you should be able to just detect a tiny *click*-*click* as the lever is barely pulled and released . . . .

Personally, I find this reassuring. I would be most disappointed if Moto Guzzi were assigned to "Life Style."

https://www.motoguzzi.com/us_EN/1921-2021/

Right. This is me all gooey over the old LoopFrames. I recall @pete roper saying, (and I paraphrase heavily), "What's all the bloody arse-up with Americans looving the Loopers? They are bloody awful bikes with brakes like wet roller skates and heavy as a lard sandwich with greasy chips." (That's not at all exactly what Pete said, but he left me with this, er, >impression< ) The answer, of course, is: "Nostalgia."

You must. It's a Grasshopper thing.

I reckon it's worth knowing what has happened here. A fortunate find from the simple "Wiggle Test" . . . That gearbox Neutral Switch pulls in the middle relay to allow the V11 to start with the sidestand down. If the switch, the connection, or the middle relay fails, the bike thinks it is in gear (with the sidestand down) and won't start (to protect us from ourselves). V11 No-Start Drill: In any No-Start occurrence with the V11, it is worth sitting on the bike, clutch lever in, and toggle the starter with the sidestand >up<. If she fires, the trouble is in this Neutral Switch/connector/ middle relay circuit. Worth noting that when the switch or its connection fails, the Neutral Light won't come on, but if the relay fails the light will still come on. (Perform the Sidestand >up< No-Start Drill) That connector is particularly vulnerable to road skim. Always worth pulling back the boot, tighten the connector, clean the connection, CAIG DeOxit®, and maybe even fill the boot with Vaseline® to ward off the road skim. So: good find @innesa ! But, more important: if that connector failed on your V11, it is fair warning to take care of others. As @Chuck and @pete roper have said, break, clean, and CAIG DeOxit® all your connections. The most important that come to mind: Battery Terminals, Ignition Switch internal contacts, and especially the main ground to the back right of the gearbox under the seat latch. Just visible below the lower/rear seat latch fastener: Rear view with swingarm removed: Neglect this Main Ground connection at your V11's peril. It will find another path to earth the starter . . .

There is some seriously intentional "owner involvement" in that electrical system! Look at that stand of U.S.A.-made High Current OMRON! And a sturdy ECU case ground . . . such nice grooms, loops, and ties.

Nicely done, @po18guy! So, those connectors plug directly into the multimeter? Tidy!

Well said. So, the TPS is baselined ("set") using the Violet/Black output and the Violet (earth/ground). The Yellow (Supply) is not used in the procedure. [FWIW, my Owner's Manual and Workshop Manual show the violet TPS earth/ground. I do see a black TPS earth/ground on Carl Allison's diagram, yet my March 2000 Sport has the violet earth/ground wire.]

All V11 TPS have three wires. The violet is the ground. Both the violet/black and yellow connect to the ECU, but the yellow is not used to baseline the TPS. It appears these wire colors remain consistent across the V11 range, but stranger things have been discovered.

Created topic in Fileshare. When the early Sport/Rosso Mandello diagram comes available, I'll add it there. Thanks, again, @stewgnu !

For 2002 model V11

One advantage to adding a "standard" automotive relay as @gstallons did, is you are not restricted to the small size of the Micro ISO Relay as in our fuse block. So, you can easily source a 35-45 amp NO contact relay and find a place for it under the seat. Make sure the rating is for "contituous current" not just inrush.

Shakedown for the South’n SpineRaid!

Sweeeeet, buddy!

Yeah, well it was fun while it lasted (not). Twelve hours on, these spammers were blocked a few hours in. Not before they blew up a lot of Member's Personal Messaging. Thanks for this whimsical thread. It was a ray of comedic relief while fielding all this inquiry. I had to remind myself, "I volunteered for this duty."

Seems that the South'n SpineRaid slogan: > Get there. < > Bring Tools. < Is some kind of code for: " Send lawyers, guns, and money!" > Dad! <

Here is one of the more complete threads on this 2002 and on V11 wiring issue. Click the the lower title and it takes you to @Chuck's original post, click the top title to go directly to a detailed post by @gstallons. Several other posters in that thread with detailed information including @Kiwi_Roy and @vuzzi:

All you STUDS got it. Then all messaged me to brag about it!

Back to this question, then . . .

Gathered replies from an unrelated topic to consolidate here with references to other important relay threads. The inquiry began when @bridge got his clutch working and posted this question on April 13, 2021: "Now, my high beam, horn, and tachometer don’t work. The fuses are all OK. It’s a mechanical tach, correct? Where should I start to troubleshoot the high beam and horn?"