docc

Yeah, well. "The best laid plans of mice and men" . . . The Sport has rolled only backward and forward enough to get my >other< bike on the lift. Then she went all Italian on me, to get my attention, and started spilling fluids onto the floor. All the while knowing I can't get her back on the lift until the sweet, quiet little Japanese lady is seen to. My chances of actually making my 200.000 km goal by the South'n SpineRaid (and Mandello's Moto Guzzi Centenary Celebration) is diminishing. Anyone wiling to post their odometer at this point in their V11's progress?

It is a very nice likeness of a Scura R! Yet, the engine paint looks a but dull and , the real giveaways: chin pad tank and white face instruments with speedo cable angle drive at the gearbox . . .

Clicking on that image opens it, then double clicking opens it in imgzeit where it can be zoomed for exquisite detail. Welldone, Stew! NOTE: This is the Second Generation wiring harness introduced in 2002. Early V11 (1999-2001) have variations especially on how the start function uses Relay#1 instead of the Ignition Switch,

Let's see how this works, folks:

I'll host it on imgzeit. Stand by for a pm, stewgnu . . .

I would hope anyone going so far as to change pistons, cylinders, and camshaft would have addressed both the known engine paint and flywheel issues of this model. So many significant changes make me wonder about how the tuning has been done....

Try saving it in each of those extensions, then see if they will post in a reply to this thread. I am no computer-person, but know who to ask . . . Thanks for sharing your hard work, Stew!

Welcome, tommaso! True, as you say, that is a 2002 with changes to look more like a Scura R. An actual Scura R would be very desirable. The bike has other changes beyond the gloss paint and seat change. There is a completely different exhaust, Quat-D, elimination of the airbox for pod filters, chin spoiler, and changes to the rear fender and tail section/tail light. Those are later 1200 valve covers, but I am not sure that the cylinders, themselves, are changed. What is meant by "D.95 cylinders?" Unfortunately, it does appear to still have the failing wrinkle black engine paint. With all that has been done (to make a good-looking V11 !), It would be telling, IMO, if it retains the aluminum flywheel/single plate clutch . . .

Red Staggerwing!

Awesome on your clutch!! The tachometer is electronic. That collection of failures = Relay#2. Install a full compliment of High Current OMRON, Accept no substitutes. Use Caig DeOxit® on the contacts.

"Let's ask the other inmates on the ward if we really are crazy." (I caught wind the T3 is going to be keeping the Green Muse company . . . )

The source for disconnecting the regulator from the battery being externally charged comes from a US distributor for OEM type DucatiEnergia regulators (EME/EuroMotoElectrics): FWIW, I was always concerned about pulling the 30 amp charging fuse out, and replacing it, since the connections are already tiny and under-rated for the amperage. Same for pulling relays out: too easy to spread the female contacts below and disturb the connections. I feel like I solved this with by replacing the 30 amp Charging/Regulator fuse with a rated circuit breaker. So, yes, easy for me to "disconnect Voltage Regulator/Rectifier from battery" while charging externally. Makes a difference? One can hope . . . One thing for sure, EME has been proven totally correct that "Additional wire ground(s) direct to battery and/or engine are strongly recommended."

You can copy and paste it into a reply here. I can then put it, also, in the Fileshare subforum. What type file is it (like .pdf?)

I am thinking there are two different wiring systems for the V11 (early and later). Yet, there are also two separate wiring harnesses: Fuel/ignition and #2) everything else.

All cool! I love Coltrane as much as the next guy, but he ain't gonna charge your PC545 . . . I apologize: I should have left a link when I split those posts. I saw everyone followed it to the "What do you listen to?" thread, so I thought it was okay . . .

Ah, sorry: Technical Thread got "Moderated." I thought everyone followed the drift here:

I remember seeing the HyperPro option and thinking, "Those look spectacular." Poked around until I found a link: https://hyperpro.com/steering-dampers/ Talk about *flash* . .

I replaced my leaky BiTubo at about 68,000 miles in August 2009 with a Japanese Shindy (SHIN-juh) standard length/oval body (17-001). It's nicely made and comes with fresh end joints (ball joints/Heim joints/Rose joints . . . ) that have tiny grease fittings on them. Only 58,000 miles on it these eleven years, but staying "flash." http://www.shindypro.com/ss.html

"Sold For $9,946 On 4/6/21"

@KINDOY2 shared this with me when he noticed the bassman plays a Fender so like my new one. Thanks, man!

Still learning. So much great information in this Odyssey Technical Manual: https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/US-ODY-TM.pdf

Thanks, mate! I couldn't bring myself to buy a fourth Veglia speedo. The Speedhuts make me nervous in the rain, but 20,000 miles so-far-so-good. Steady, accurate speed and odo. Illumination is stunning. We shall see if they actually outlast my usual 27,000-30,000 mile lifespan of my Veglias . . .

I see this one which needs springs (they're cheap), and I'm not seeing the intermediate plate in the images (also cheap to replace). No declaration on mileage, but priced right (150£/$210US): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-2002-On-Clutch-Assembly/353110155146?hash=item5237015f8a:g:7KwAAOSwagpgRfaq And this one that is in California(looks to be in great condition). I have the reardrive from this 14,000 mile Sport bike (also in great condition): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-2000-Sport-Fly-Wheel-and-Clutch-Assembly/163743517580?hash=item261fdfcb8c:g:ilUAAOSwIipdCtQY FWIW, I recall this US seller was in the middle of moving his household and I know one member who didn't get his parts from him. I would confirm availability before ordering.

Uncertain about that charger and how to use it. Always attach a reliable voltmeter and never exceed 15.0 volts. Amperage is much harder to monitor. Odyssey say actual charging only occurs at 6 or more amps. Those catch phrases "pulse" and "repair" do not look AGM compatible. Also "lithium battery" parameters are not AGM parameters.

Very timely question (for which I have no answer). Chatting with another member, we are having difficulty finding a "manual" charger that will actually provide a true 6+ amps to significantly charge the PC545 Odyssey when it falls below the 12.65v charge threshold. Seems that these "manual" chargers taper the current (amperage) based upon >some algorithm<. Giving the Odyssey "the full beans" remains elusive . . .