docc

It is in one the celebration threads, but is so very beautiful, absolutely worthy of its own thread! The three bikes, and their riders, are a fascinating representation of the breadth and appeal of Moto Guzzi. The T3, a Galletto, and what is that blue 160 that the pretty lady in leathers is riding?

This is what our Rube Goldberg V11 sidestand is for: to make the shifter seem positively simple and sensible. I suppose, in all fairness, rearset footpegs have always necessitated creative shift mechanisms . . .

Pretty sure I learned this set-up from Andy (along with a boat load of other stuff . . .). Okay, I remember now that the bolts screw up through the threaded nuts welded to the underside of the subframe. I was still nervous about them loosening and topped them with flange nuts. The bolts are too short to fully engage the "locking" nuts, so I drenched them in blue LocTite. Like Andy, been there > a long time < . . . I just measured and this drops the front of the battery basket 0.360"/ ~9mm (almost 3/8"!) because of the thickness of the basket metal plus the thickness of the subframe plate and the thickness of the welded nuts underneath) . . .

A couple things made me nervous about making that change. One was shock clearance (it's tight down there!) . . . The other was the nuts loosening and the bolts dropping out, then the battery and basket dropping onto the shock sending me halfway to a bad day. Pretty sure I either used NyLoc nuts or LocTite or both.

I remember relieving a ridge on my original seat pan because it was cutting the battery strap. I bought a second hand seat later and the PO had cut out the entire battery area to the exposed foam (makes the seat pan pretty flimsy). My solution to the seat pressing the battery was to attach the battery basket to the bottom of the subframe at the front, gaining maybe 3mm to 5mm.

Tom's Le Mans in the act (sweeeeeeet, buddy!):

Just an addendum for others also fettling their shifter, the lock nuts on the Heim/rose joints on the connecting shaft have been known to loosen, as well as the pinch bolt on the arm on the gearbox shaft. Adjust the rod length so the arms are parallel and check that the lever downstroke does not foul the frame sidechop in any gear (no just first).

Yeah, the tension on the pivot is adjusted with the bolt into the subframe so it moves freely, but without excessive play. Then the lock nut secures the pivot bolt position. Sometimes, it helps to add a shim between the shift lever and the subframe tab to get a smooth action without the lever twisting on the stroke. Part of tuning the external shift mechanism . . .

That's a great observation and question. And caution for those who have done modification this to inspect their seat base for fouling. I have had to relieve my seat base for several clearance issues and know others have, as well. Simple enough with a Dremel, sometimes replacing polymer panels to cover the underside of any exposed foam. Definitely do not want our seat bases sitting on our battery terminals.

There is a lock nut on the inboard side of the bracket. fiddly to get to.

Oh, easy! You just need to get all those pesky extra parts out of the way to get the Q-Tips into the tight spots . . .

Many of you know my celebration of Moto Guzzi's centenary this year is to roll 200.000 km/124,000 miles on my one-owner Sport. What are you folks posting for "mileage?" "kilometerage?" @andy york rocks. Likely the world record for a V11 thus far. @kglm ? @luhbo? @Orson? (I keep my odometer in my signature.)

The Marabese V11 Sport is a pure work of art! Grazie, Maestro!

@Nihontochicken's post referencing the "Odyssey battery L terminal adapter":

That's sweet, @guzzler!

@sunbeamtim ?????

This is what it looks like "Direct" (address starting with "https") and not "BBCode" (address starting and ending with "[img]" . . . Any of you can change a BBCode image (that will not display here) to "Direct" by Copy&Paste the portion of the address https--->.JPG and leave off the [img] from the front and back.

4 + 4= #1 Main cables, #2 Fuel/Ignition harness, #3 Lighting/starting/charging harness (yes, two completely separate harnesses from the factory!), #4: something added for power access (charging or accessory power). #5? Likely a regulator ground (second ring terminal seen on the regulator case) or a second accessory (like a GPS). That ends up being a lot of ring terminals on the battery and a formula for corrosion and loosening. The reason some of us added junction blocks (which can also corrode and loosen!) . . .

"Holding" is good! Do have a meter quality enough to show you that next decimal place? If that were my PC545 below 12.65, I would discharge it with the lights and see where the voltage is after 2-3 minutes. Over 12.0 would be nice to see. Then watch how long your 10 amp charger takes to bring it into the 14.2-14.7 range. (And whether it comes closer to the 15.0 limit this second charge cycle). [edit: Alright, ya made me look. The Sport was ridden yesterday 70 miles, 12.73v this morning. The 10 1/2 year old PC545 in Swampee-the-test-bed sits at 12.66v after sitting weeks and weeks.] (It is well know that splitting hairs is safer than splitting atoms. )

"What Moto Guzzi means to me: an immense effort." Alis Agostini (3:41 in the video above)

@v11_meticcio sent me this link. I don't think he posted it, yet. I find this a very beautiful tribute! The music and cinematography are delightful . . .

Negatives: #1 (big one) for the main ground to the back of the gearbox, #2 for the fuel/ignition harness, #3 for the secondary harness (lights, start, charge, etc). My other two are for an accessory plug and a GPS. I believe there are those who have grounded their regulator back to the battery (my R/R case is grounded to the timing chest). @bsanorton, can you trace the grounds that travel outside the two factory harnesses? Look to see if there are two ring terminals on the regulator case.

The Hawker Odyssey is an awesome piece of kit, even at 75-80%. Lots of folks just don't worry about and do "whatever." I'm just not a 75-80% kinda guy, I suppose.

Important correction, if you please: most forums use "BBCode (for forums)". Ours used to until the last update and now only displays "Direct" where the address starts with "http" and NOT "[img]". I most commonly select "large" size: Clicking on the image opens it larger. Clicking on it again opens it in imgzeit where it can be enlarger further.