docc

You know that your Sat-Nav has bumped-up against your analog existence when the battery has to come out of your > device < to re-boot it, while the hardware rests soundly on your Moto Guzzi's wiring diagram . . .

Nineteen posts since the OP lasted visited. Pretty much all right on topic. You guys rock!

A different TPS?

My bad decimal math. I knew the WOT is in volts not mV. Thanks for the correction.

With around forty delightful illustrations by Ettore Gambioli, the book is worthwhile for just that. The authors have their editorial license to their opinions, of course. That they say that the Centauro ". . . practically marked the disappearance of Moto Guzzi sports bikes until the advent of the MGS-01" might not set particularly well with this reader, but I accept their focus. They nearly fell into the V-twin origins trap mentioning the "3x3 army vehicle" in their attribution to Giulio Carcano, but pulled it out with a decent account of the V-twin development in a later section. Some interesting insights and fresh prospective on the long history of Moto Guzzi.

I recall the TPS should be 490-500 mV WOT? Looking like, as Lucky Phil has said, " . . . you have a TPS problem."

Maybe I have the terms confused, but I was thinking a "piggyback" shock has the reservoir attached to the shock body. I can't see how that would fit on the V11. Rox Lemans shared a pic of his Öhlins on his Scura. I suppose I would call this "remote reservoir with remote preload adjuster." This is the same unit I have, but Rox Lemans has a really interesting location for the Remote Preload adjuster:

@ronkom, Lucky Phil discusses the eccentric adjustment in his How To thread (among several other aspects that may help your shifting):

I’m trying to visualize what that “con rod” is, @Cabernet....

My MotoItaliane book arrived today after about four weeks only (shipped from The Netherlands). Looking forward to enjoying more about Moto Guzzi. Thanks, p6x, for the recommendation!

Certainly worth inspecting, adjusting, and perhaps tightening the external shift mechanism. Make sure the two "arms" are parallel with one another. Sometimes the pivot bolt benefits from a shim to reduce slop. Even after performing (most) of Lucky Phil's excellent Shift Improvement, I still preload the lever and take up the clutch play to get best shifts.

My cut-off spacers are 23mm plus the 20mm I cut off (yes, of course I saved those pieces twenty years!) plus about 1mm for the saw kerf = 44mm. So, maybe even 45mm taking into account some measuring and rounding error and the cut-off being slightly out of square?

Love to see some images of that shock set-up. buddy! How does it miss the battery tray?

And, yep, they'll carry a full case of 12oz North American Longnecks . . .

So, here's an image of a Tekno beside what my rack looks like with the shortened spacer. Pretty sure the original spacers are about 40mm. Too much stand-off for my tastes. Note the lower mount is on the outside of the passenger peg/ exhaust hanger. I chose this in order to mount the canister as far inboard as possible to narrow the exhaust profile. Also, see that the two clamped "stops" are moved all the way forward here as I am not looking to accommodate a pillion. The lower can also be mounted to the inside with the exhaust outboard if you prefer:

They do clear. There is a tubular spacer for the front mounting point that some of us have shortened to bring them in a bit closer. There are two versions of the bags/brackets. Mine are the earlier type without the additional rear cross brace. No instructions I know of, but lots of discussion and some images. I'll scare some up later this evening for you . . .

Oh, hey: " strain relief ! "

@BramF, a broken wire at the sensor is probably most common. Especially after some "handling." Resoldering the wire to the sensor base, then applying an epoxy retention blob (I'm sure there is a better technical name for that known method!) may save the day . . .

How about set up your temp tan to the pump and connect a longer return line back to the regulator on the main tank nearby? The fuel dosn't have to return to the same tank unless you're going somewhere . . .

Welcome, Tomas! If the bike didn't stutter, the water did not enter through the intakes. The three places that come to mind to inspect are the crankcase vent hose at the rear/top of the engine, distributor block-off plate at the top-right of the engine inboard of the back of the right cylinder, and the dip stick. Let us know what you find!

You’ll need a fuel pump, as well, yah?

Shock: yes triples: ? Also, not sure that axle fits the earlier wheel??

Pretty sure I just saw one on US ebay. edit: I see three: https://www.ebay.com/itm/moto-guzzi-v11-sport-lemans-fuel-level-sender/324479724769?hash=item4b8c7face1:g:vXwAAOSwT~dgIYfV This one is from a '99EV: https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Moto-Guzzi-V11-V-11-EV-V11EV-gas-fuel-level-Sensor-sending-unit/273583812267?hash=item3fb2ddaeab:g:H48AAOSwg-tb~oTihttps://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Moto-Guzzi-V11-V-11-EV-V11EV-gas-fuel-level-Sensor-sending-unit/273583812267?hash=item3fb2ddaeab:g:H48AAOSwg-tb~oTi And NOS, $119.99US: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Moto-Guzzi-V10-Fuel-Level-Sensor-Sending-Unit-GU01103001-2688/293933931228?hash=item446fd3dadc:g:n98AAOSwgPtf7ObP