docc

@Drahchir, if the leak is on the left a common source is the crank position sensor. This is the sensor in front of the cylinder with the two hex drive fasteners. Sometimes, just snugging up the fasteners is enough to address the leak. Otherwise, it uses a small Viton O-ring (#112 SAE or metric equivalent). Be mindful of the thin spacer as it indexes the cam timing. These sensors might also leak through the wiring leading me to coat mine in JB Weld epoxy many years ago.

Yeah, my man, let's start a new thread for you in Technical Topics and get to the bottom of your issue Is the leak on the right or left?

I do not remember her from the sixties. Of course, I turned ten years old in 1967 and was only just beginning to get interested in these "sorts of things."

This one?

It occurred to me to point out there are two angle drive, the other being attached to the speedometer end. It is usually not the trouble that the gearbox one is, but is worth inspecting.

My Speedhut are at 31,380 miles, 7 1/2 years, and have outlasted all of my efforts to keep three Veglia speedos (and numerous angle drives) in the game . . .

May I frame the question this way: How is "manifold pressure" different than "intake vacuum?"

So, the metal disc had dislodged causing the gears to mis-mesh?

@Bingbong and his Coppa Italia are on the Portuguese coast . . .

Aaaahhh: Stilettos!

Magnifique! Notable how the motorcycles overtake, and move opposite the convoy. Using sirens! I want one!

So, an early 1999-2000 production judging by the finned, steel exhaust header flanges. This run also suffered from the red stillettos fading to pink. Some P.O. likely stripped them to the bare alumin(i)m . . .

Welcome back, @Drahchir! I moved the image of your lovely LeMans for all to see!

"Carajillo !" What a concept! https://vinepair.com/cocktail-recipe/carajillo/

Officially "3 mos. before this event ", now. Get Uranus in gear, @gstallons . . . I need to start addressing my Waddington Effect.

eBay seller in Ohio, "Mike's Motorcycle Parts": https://www.ebay.com/itm/273413734401?itmmeta=01HZR21WKM2Z43WGS6W53W08VH&hash=item3fa8ba8001:g:pX8AAOSwQeVbd3W6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwLQI3gQqGqhZhgMd8FhYifjHiIWme6Us4ItihVYDiZr3c3Yj7Q2ONCBdt9FpcaZxsWxy2um2aVhARD%2FjHc%2B4uYO%2Fcn0s0S81fetg%2FwjfIXfrRk5iSEvbvXaLex5CepSgSmkJTI1QhEyy0Fi1m57XwUmTxt300lVVxOzO5l3F%2BK1jgMl7xosRCivxx8zOhL3gzLXQhZbqcK6jL3%2B7AKQ%2Bx2g0nCZZpIhEYfBIIQhldChfCXNtHM3Xn%2FrFsIEoix3Mqw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_TJh4L-Yw https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/NGYAAOSwMUNbd3W~/s-l960.webp Looks like under $50 shipped.

Looks like CadreCycle or AF1Racing might get the switch special order . . . https://cadrecycle.com/product/switch-rh-2/ https://www.af1racing.com/search?q=01738800&adv=true&cid=0&isc=true&mid=0&vid=0&pf=&pt=&sid=true&adv=false&isc=false&sid=false

I don't see the switch at MGCycle (GU01738800) Seems that switch was also used on various Ducati (Monster?) and others back in the day?

Open that switch and clean it with CRC Eelctronics Cleaner and follow with Caig DeOxit. Turn signal lens at MG Cycle: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=85

Three months to SSR XX. (Uranus visible on the horizon ) Start a new thread in Classifieds/Wanted with your wishlist . . .

Doug Brauneck rode the #46 Dr. John ProTwins (2-valve) racer in 1987 whose success put the #1 plate on the subsequent 1988 4-valve race bikes.

These outcomes make me ponder that "fork seal cleaning" should be a routine maintenance procedure. Perhaps "yearly" or with every oil change . . .

I so wanted to post a pic of my "favourite pair of shorts ", but there is not enough room for the patch on them and she didn't want me to post the pic anyway . . .

Thanks for confirming that "air gap" is the "proper way." We must just be certain to "prime" the cartridges full of oil before using the air gap method.

The "proper way to check the fluid level" . . .