docc

Take "ScotchBrite" to it? It comes in various grades, like sandpaper . . .

Yah, watch out for those "hairline cracks!"

Good find on the U-joint! Quite the transformation!

Hey, while you're in there . . .

So, I only see the "front" portion in "carb." (even though it also says "red" which I believe designates the "Rosso" model application) in the 1999-2001 Parts Catalog: Front mudguard, carb. - - - 04000N red GU01434340

2001 Rosso Mandello had a carbon fiber front fender, but not Öhlins?

Yep, but that sealant could be pretty "set-up" now. Maybe warm the perimeter gently with a heat gun then find the extended rib at the right between the two bolt holes midway. It is an excellent purchase point for the pry end of a "Lady's Foot" or what P.Roper aptly calls a podgy bar. Should pop right off. Best if it is already in neutral to simplify reassembly . . .

It has been a revelation (to me) how many of the musicians from the bands of the 70s-80s-90s have stayed in the game and revealed their extraordinary musicianship.

Heh, yeah, I took my relay post down because I thought it might just confuse the issue(s). Could have been just the PC, Brian north. Otherwise, the V11 is probably better thought of as a journey, or a process, rather than a series of problems and repairs. Tell us more about the "01 v11 s" . . . how long have you had it, miles on it, other modifications . . . You know, the important stuff, like, is it silver?

And, now, Ken Hensley of Uriah Heep has given his Last Dance . . . Godspeed . . .

The hanging panels are awesome! Thanks for offering them here, Gregg!

To greet the rider on approach?

I had some fun leafing through Mario Colombo's excellent book, Moto Guzzi - The Complete History from 1921, and was surprised to see the number of rear facing eagles. And not just on the older, pre-Vtwins. Incidentally, all the rear flyers I saw were on the left . . . Another Guzzi myth busted!

+1 on gstallons advice, no matter what direction you go with this. Seems if you have to replace the fuse connectors anyway, the CB is the way to go. The 30 amp Tyco looks available: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php I still wonder if the Tenni's battery had gone rather flat over a long time and the charging system had to way overheat those tiny fuse connections to bring it up, along with the various connecting points having gotten corrosive. In other words, that there is nothing actually broken, pinched, shorted or really "wrong" after the reassembly.

Seems the sump fasteners are the same M6x1.0 as the valve covers. One of my fourteen pulled its threads out. I have the correct "HeliCoil" ("Recoil ", made in Australia), but not the special "STI" tap to install them. Is that special tap a must?

Since both daviscr5 and Tom in Virginia have the later wiring, then the OP, LowRyter, likely has a different problem. Assuming the relays are high current OMRON G8HE, it could be that removing and replacing relays repeatedly has weakened the relay base connections. Again, Kiwi_Roy to the rescue:

I also seem to recall that the 2002 got the later wiring. Relay #1 "Livin' Easy" through the NC contact (?)

Nicely put, Kiwi_Roy! So (on the early wiring), blowing Fuse5 during a start attempt could be connections to the Starter Solenoid or faulty starter (like the common internal loose magnets)? If it blows turning the key on (Start Relay normally closed), the fault is in the Headlight Relay circuit?

I would suggest opening the headlamp bucket and inspecting the 3-way H4 bub connector for heat damage. I have also seen a damaged H4 bulb filament cause a short. Faulty Relay#2, or its connections underneath, is also worth checking.

I had to give these guys a look. I was rather hoping they had posted some images of that delicious V11 Tenni tank . . . https://mcs-engineering.co.uk/

Press to start and "nothing" can simply be the Clutch Safety Switch "bullet" connectors under the left side of the tank. They are notorious for locking out the start function. Sometimes, this can be confirmed by holding in the clutch lever while keeping the start button pressed and rotating the bars back and forth. If the starter suddenly catches, it is likely a bad connection at those flinky bullet connectors.

Actual OMRON G8HE in all positions? Yeah, the Caig DeOxit really is awesome contact/switch cleaner-lubricant-treatment-sealant. maybe that is just the "Gold" product, but it is definitely worth it.

Is the tank polished alloy? Looks delicious!

@swooshdave posted some nice work on replacing the stem nut: Also @KINDOY2 in that same thread: