docc

Usually they arrive about 50% (~12.50 volts) and should be "conditioned" prior to installation. Even a PC545 showing up 100% (12.84v), I would discharge it with a light bulb or such and monitor where the voltage stabilizes after 2-3 minutes, then after it fully recovers with no load (probably minutes to an hour). If below 12.65v, apply 6 amps minimum until it reaches 15.0 volts maximum.

Solid! I'll share that with my buddy. He's coming to the South'n SpineRaid. Maybe we'll pass around the little flat thingy and let folks speculate . . .

Would a dedicated regulator case-> engine case ground help that?

Nope. Doesn't even look very German. No stampings or markings. But it does look rather purposeful, if not very elegant . . .

Well, it is living on an R1100S now, but came off a K75 . . . so, no wire spokes with nipples . . .

Correct: PC545

My vote would be NyLoc self-locking nut. Good find, there, LangleyMalc! That would make me keep looking . . .

Here is another for the "What's-it?" crowd. What is the flat tool at the bottom, right, with the notch at the tip? (Hint: mid-80s BMW motorcycle toolroll):

I love the way the way @v11_meticcio looks ready to leap into the air, spread its wings, and soar down through that lovely valley . . .

Just that curious bronze patina our pipes offer us from running her hard (but never putting her away wet!).

[been there - shaved that . . . ] Managed to unfuck it with this guidance. Thanks, Pete!

Seems like a lot of trouble when you can remove the front trim with three fasteners and lift it off along with the "lens" to access the bulbs from the surface. Sure, you could crush them trying to grasp them with a tool, but should be able to gingerly remove and replace them without all that disassembly.

Yessir. But, why remove the speedo? No need to get to the warning bulbs, IIRC.

They are reversed threaded. But no reason to remove it to get to the warning bulbs?

Rosso Mandello has the same frame and subframe configurations as the early RedFrames.

With this caution, the bulbs are actually quite easy to access. They can be removed by gently grasping the globe with hemostats (also known by "other " names ). The glass tends to get "zinced" after a while and look black like they are blown, so put 12 v across and see if it lights. Not a bad idea to change them all to "long life" fresh units for a brighter result. Always: a spritz of magical Caig DeOxit® when things go back together . . .

About a week out and I see I started the Sport's shakedown three months ago and have ridden it over 2700 miles. About as ready as it can possibly be and properly separated from the Waddington Effect (unwanted outcomes from my messing with it ). I told a buddy that if I didn't saddle up and head out next week she would probably sprout a cortex and leave without me! SpineRaiders are looking to number 10-14 for this S'xteenth South'n. Y'all ride well, ya hear?

Makes me wonder if keeping my Sport on the lift in the chock all the time has helped spare my sidestand switch . . .

https://www.baxleycompanies.com/

So well done, Lucky Phil! Just stellar, your documenting this and sharing. This is exactly the kind of thread that belongs in the "How to . . ." sub-forum. Thanks, again, Lucky Phil!

(Idle is kinda low there, bud. CO looks fine.)

AFAIK, no US V11 had oxygen sensors. Pretty awesome SooRoo has found this simple change! Something we would have never discovered in places where the V11 has no O2 sensor . . . (off topic, then: biggest two issues I see missing from your list @Tom in Virginia is CO Fuel Trim zero and TPS baseline. Pretty sure those are on for the SpineRaid TechSession!)

Curious what’s up with Dietcokeman. Always a bit un-nerving when one of us puts his V11 up for sale....

Looks like the seller may be our own @Dietcokeman . . .

Relay#3 is the least stressed relay in the stack. It is energized by the Neutral Switch so the bike will start and run with the stand down. In gear, the Run Switch gets power through the Sidestand Switch when the stand is up (no relay). Calling Relay#3 the "sidestand Relay" is a misnomer and source of confusion, IMO. The Neutral Light is lit by the Neutral Switch before the relay, so will be lit even though the relay is absent or may have failed. That your bike will start in gear suggests a stuck Sidestand Switch, its wires crushed together (like under the alternator cover), or (perhaps most likely in your case) some PO decided to defeat the switch and hot wired it (twisted the wires together) upstream from the switch. Follow the wiring upstream from the sidestand and look for an ugly blue box (ScotchLok! ).