docc

Yeah, those alternate headlamp harnesses with their own fused power and separate relays for hi- and lo- beam were a way to deal with the overloaded relays early on. My Sport has this system, but no longer used since finding a reliable LED headlamp unit. And High Current micro relays (OMRON G8HE). The very first issue my dealer addressed on my Sport (within a couple months) was to send me a larger relay for the #1 position. Later (~2002), Moto Guzzi changed the wiring harness to power Relay#2 from the Ignition Switch instead (like older Guzzis with "Startus Interuptus"®).

Yep, the green/white power input to Relay#2 is what would come from the 5th pin of Relay#1. Not many micro relays in the world have the rated capacity to handle that current through the weaker NC contact, but your G8HE OMRON will do it. Once that ScotchLok is off, try to make sure it has not damaged the power wire to Relay#1. By design, they cut into the strands.

So, that discussion is about using separate relays and direct wiring for the headlights, but not about the existing relays and how they are wired in the factory harness. That wiring actually bypasses both Relay#1/Start Relay and Relay#2/"Headlamp" Relay to supply power through a dedicated headlamp harness from the battery.

Well, you will need to replace the connector that fits into the relay base. Unless it is still part of the wire to Relay2?

On the early V11 Sports, the entire load on Relay#2 (including the headlight) is fed through the weaker NC contact of Relay#1. Running a High Current OMRON has not always been a known solution, so these folks just bypassed that function by combining the power to both relays. Relay #1 will no longer be stressed on that contact since it is bypassed. Sure the LED draws less. I am not sure if it is bad for, say, the tachometer to experience that drain from cranking then some kind of inrush current. Or if that inrush current is any higher than the NC contact reconnecting in the unaltered design. Someone else should comment on those ScotchLok connections. I've always heard they are frowned upon. If you were to leave it wired that way, I would think a more positive connection would be desirable.

There it is. Some PO, or their "technician" modified the wiring by using that nasty ScotchLok to defeat the 5th pin "load shedding" function and simply connect the power input to Relay#1 with the power input to Relay#2.

Or perhaps, when you investigate the relay bases to perform the Kiwi_Roy tightening procedure, you will find someone has pulled that 5th connector from Relay#1 and wired it hot to where it powers Relay#2. Essentially eliminating the weak NC contact/ 5th pin of Relay#1, but leaves all of that load (especially the headlight) on while cranking.

How odd! Relay#1 is the Start Relay. When the NO (Normally Open) contact is pulled in with the Start Button, power is sent to the Starter Solenoid. When the contact flips back to the NC (Normally Closed/ "5th") contact, power is directed to Relay #2 for headlights/brake(stop) light/tachometer/warning indicator lights/voltage reference. This effectively defeats all of that power draw during cranking. Does your headlight go out while cranking?

I found this in "Post a pic of your V11", but it does not show the wheels well and has a funky aspect ratio . . @Mikko, happy to hear all the parts are available to mount the wheel. Now to hunt up the front!

Yes, this failure is difficult to see without exposing the wiring:

Very likely. 50 ft-lb = ~68 Nm Still quite a lot more on that big bolt head than I would have thought . . .

More progress! @KINDOY2 has magnesium wheels adapted to his Rosso Corsa. Looks like some special parts to put that rear on a V11 . . .

The discussion in German makes this seem all so sensible! The only thing I understood was, "Burble-burble-burble- VARRRROOOOOM!"

I believe @Rolf Halvorsen still has a supply of these G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 in Norway. Otherwise, from the US: https://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics/g8he1c7trdc12-42670683.html Even though a Relay#2, stuck closed, puts power to these circuits, it is hard to decide it could do it alone without another fault . . . [edit: although, when I jump across ("hot wire") Relay#2 I get odd illumination of the warning lights with the Ignition and Run Switch off.]

Relay #1, that you have changed, and Relay#2 work in tandem to energize these circuits. I understand you have changed #1 for a new relay. It is good to change Relay#2 as well. Again, OMRON G8HE 5-pin High Current relays are highly recommended for all five positions!

Has the bike been stored where a mouse could have damaged the wiring where it is hard to see?

How many ring terminals are on each of the positive and negative battery terminals?

Have not passenger vehicles had their fuel pumps inside the tank for decades without issue?

True for all V11 Sport/V11 LeMans and all of their variants with Spine Frames. Easy to forget that the same era Tonti-framed bikes (V11 EV/California and all of their variants use the 5 speed gear box. I reckon it is, technically, the motor of that era (1999-2005?) that is designated "V11."

Not only could riding off with a V11 sidestand down be demoralizing or injurious, the attachment to the sump spacer and timing chain cover can wreak a ridiculous amount of damage and take the bike out of service. This is a fair time, I suppose, to post a reminder to address the proper tightening of these fasteners at one of the V11's Achilles' Heels. The large upper bolt is torqued to 70-75 Nm! One of the few specific torque values in the Workshop Manual . . .

Use copper. The bruises don't show as badly . . .

I learned this one from Kiwi_Roy, so I have a legitimate reference! The Run Switch is powered two different ways: 1) In gear, riding, the Run Switch is energized through the Sidestand Switch which closes its circuit when the stand is raised. Direct connection from the Ignition Switch, no relay. 2) In neutral, the Neutral Switch pulls in Relay #3 (the middle relay, third from the front) that routes power from the Ignition Switch through its NO/ Normally Open contact [30 to 87, labelled on some relays as "3 and 5", or simply the outboard two contacts on the relay base]. This relay is confusingly referred to as the "Sidestand Relay" on wiring diagrams, but it is energized by the Neutral Switch and more accurately is the "Neutral Relay." So, in the event your V11 will not run in gear with the sidestand up, lift the seat, pull Relay#3 and either insert a short length of wire into the outside two connections in the relay base or, as Kiwi_Roy says, wrap a short length of wire around the outboard two blades of the relay and reinsert (either way, effectively "hot wiring" the relay and sending power to the Run Switch full time when the Ignition Switch is on). (Again, this is a field expedient solution for the case that the Sidestand Switch fails to close with the stand up and the bike will not run in gear ("stranded"). The OP, LowRyter, has the opposite case with the switch stuck in the closed position or the wires shorted together somewhere, like pinched together under the alternator cover.)

A more elegant solution, in the event the Sidestand Switch will not close and energize the Run Switch is to lift the seat and "hot wire" the middle/#3 relay (30 -> 87) bypassing the neutral switch and its relay to energize the Run Switch hot off the Ignition Switch. About 3 cm of wire would do it. Of course, LowRyter's issue is the opposite: Sidestand Switch stuck closed. Makes my want to tap on it with a suitable persuasion device . . .

Gonna miss seeing Adam and his sweet Rosso Mandello. Be nice to see Scott again!