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Very likely. 50 ft-lb = ~68 Nm Still quite a lot more on that big bolt head than I would have thought . . .

More progress! @KINDOY2 has magnesium wheels adapted to his Rosso Corsa. Looks like some special parts to put that rear on a V11 . . .

The discussion in German makes this seem all so sensible! The only thing I understood was, "Burble-burble-burble- VARRRROOOOOM!"

I believe @Rolf Halvorsen still has a supply of these G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 in Norway. Otherwise, from the US: https://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics/g8he1c7trdc12-42670683.html Even though a Relay#2, stuck closed, puts power to these circuits, it is hard to decide it could do it alone without another fault . . . [edit: although, when I jump across ("hot wire") Relay#2 I get odd illumination of the warning lights with the Ignition and Run Switch off.]

Relay #1, that you have changed, and Relay#2 work in tandem to energize these circuits. I understand you have changed #1 for a new relay. It is good to change Relay#2 as well. Again, OMRON G8HE 5-pin High Current relays are highly recommended for all five positions!

Has the bike been stored where a mouse could have damaged the wiring where it is hard to see?

How many ring terminals are on each of the positive and negative battery terminals?

Have not passenger vehicles had their fuel pumps inside the tank for decades without issue?

True for all V11 Sport/V11 LeMans and all of their variants with Spine Frames. Easy to forget that the same era Tonti-framed bikes (V11 EV/California and all of their variants use the 5 speed gear box. I reckon it is, technically, the motor of that era (1999-2005?) that is designated "V11."

Not only could riding off with a V11 sidestand down be demoralizing or injurious, the attachment to the sump spacer and timing chain cover can wreak a ridiculous amount of damage and take the bike out of service. This is a fair time, I suppose, to post a reminder to address the proper tightening of these fasteners at one of the V11's Achilles' Heels. The large upper bolt is torqued to 70-75 Nm! One of the few specific torque values in the Workshop Manual . . .

Use copper. The bruises don't show as badly . . .

I learned this one from Kiwi_Roy, so I have a legitimate reference! The Run Switch is powered two different ways: 1) In gear, riding, the Run Switch is energized through the Sidestand Switch which closes its circuit when the stand is raised. Direct connection from the Ignition Switch, no relay. 2) In neutral, the Neutral Switch pulls in Relay #3 (the middle relay, third from the front) that routes power from the Ignition Switch through its NO/ Normally Open contact [30 to 87, labelled on some relays as "3 and 5", or simply the outboard two contacts on the relay base]. This relay is confusingly referred to as the "Sidestand Relay" on wiring diagrams, but it is energized by the Neutral Switch and more accurately is the "Neutral Relay." So, in the event your V11 will not run in gear with the sidestand up, lift the seat, pull Relay#3 and either insert a short length of wire into the outside two connections in the relay base or, as Kiwi_Roy says, wrap a short length of wire around the outboard two blades of the relay and reinsert (either way, effectively "hot wiring" the relay and sending power to the Run Switch full time when the Ignition Switch is on). (Again, this is a field expedient solution for the case that the Sidestand Switch fails to close with the stand up and the bike will not run in gear ("stranded"). The OP, LowRyter, has the opposite case with the switch stuck in the closed position or the wires shorted together somewhere, like pinched together under the alternator cover.)

A more elegant solution, in the event the Sidestand Switch will not close and energize the Run Switch is to lift the seat and "hot wire" the middle/#3 relay (30 -> 87) bypassing the neutral switch and its relay to energize the Run Switch hot off the Ignition Switch. About 3 cm of wire would do it. Of course, LowRyter's issue is the opposite: Sidestand Switch stuck closed. Makes my want to tap on it with a suitable persuasion device . . .

Gonna miss seeing Adam and his sweet Rosso Mandello. Be nice to see Scott again!

Here is the other decent shot I got out of the series. I just though that first one the more "artistic" . . .

Oh, my no. A fellow I know who gave me permission to get that close. Maybe the most beautiful Alfa ever, the Sprint Speciale by Bertone. Or, as my friend likes to say, “Bert One.”

@LowRyter I've never felt like I get get anything sprayed up into that switch. And I don't think it can be taken apart to service it. Removing the switch and turning it downside-up might give the contact cleaner a chance to penetrate while working the button in and out. Something like Caig® DeOxit (there is nothing like Caig® DeOxit!) rather than WD40 would be the most likely thing to resurrect the switch in this downside-up position if anything will. Are replacements available? Otherwise, I suppose it's possible to have pinched the wires together under the alternator cover which would defeat the switch as you described. Is the wiring free and clear from the switch all the way up to the frame?

Is this the only 5-pin (5 connector) relay you have? Have you tried replacing it with a known good relay in that position? (OMRON High Current G8HE relays are highly recommended!)

That's who I was thinking of. Thanks, Kelly! Good luck, Dulci! Hoping to see some pictures of your Magni faired sport!

Okay, thanks again to Kiwi_Roy for documenting so many of these electrical issues for us! And another:

I remember there was a company that just made windscreens for all kinds of fairings. Anyone recall them?

If the wires at the Ignition Switch are seen to be all intact at the solder joints, inspect for pinched or damaged wiring (as from a rodent chewing) and be certain the main ground to the gearbox is intact. I will look again for images of the Ignition Switch fault.

Here it is in Post#2. That will be where the chicken dinner goes!

Aw . . . . seems to be a lot of that going around these days. Lay in a course for next year, the South'n SpineRaid's 7'teenth and Moto Guzzi's Centesimo! We're gonna have a big blow out (not really) and pull out all the stops (not really doing anything differently). Well, okay, maybe we'll bring more tools . . .