docc

Here is the other decent shot I got out of the series. I just though that first one the more "artistic" . . .

Oh, my no. A fellow I know who gave me permission to get that close. Maybe the most beautiful Alfa ever, the Sprint Speciale by Bertone. Or, as my friend likes to say, “Bert One.”

@LowRyter I've never felt like I get get anything sprayed up into that switch. And I don't think it can be taken apart to service it. Removing the switch and turning it downside-up might give the contact cleaner a chance to penetrate while working the button in and out. Something like Caig® DeOxit (there is nothing like Caig® DeOxit!) rather than WD40 would be the most likely thing to resurrect the switch in this downside-up position if anything will. Are replacements available? Otherwise, I suppose it's possible to have pinched the wires together under the alternator cover which would defeat the switch as you described. Is the wiring free and clear from the switch all the way up to the frame?

Is this the only 5-pin (5 connector) relay you have? Have you tried replacing it with a known good relay in that position? (OMRON High Current G8HE relays are highly recommended!)

That's who I was thinking of. Thanks, Kelly! Good luck, Dulci! Hoping to see some pictures of your Magni faired sport!

Okay, thanks again to Kiwi_Roy for documenting so many of these electrical issues for us! And another:

I remember there was a company that just made windscreens for all kinds of fairings. Anyone recall them?

If the wires at the Ignition Switch are seen to be all intact at the solder joints, inspect for pinched or damaged wiring (as from a rodent chewing) and be certain the main ground to the gearbox is intact. I will look again for images of the Ignition Switch fault.

Here it is in Post#2. That will be where the chicken dinner goes!

Aw . . . . seems to be a lot of that going around these days. Lay in a course for next year, the South'n SpineRaid's 7'teenth and Moto Guzzi's Centesimo! We're gonna have a big blow out (not really) and pull out all the stops (not really doing anything differently). Well, okay, maybe we'll bring more tools . . .

Right, as I understand, Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) is the correct 5-pin with both NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed) contacts. It appears the 1C7T is the correct SPDT.

Here is the Shindy info. Again, not sure about availability these days. The HyperPro looks awesome!

Yes, the first position is 5-pin. The sealing is insignificant. Seal them yourself if you like, it's easy. When talking about so little money, why not just spend the extra few dollars and get properly rated relays? Some report they have run the cheap Chinese or even factory Siemens without issue. Yet, I have seen and watched reports of numerous relay related issues. Especially with 10amp/20amp ratings.

The ignition switch is not hard to remove from and disassemble to inspect (and repair if necessary).

Good question! Sounds very much like what NicoNZ is experiencing. Has your bike been apart or worked on lately?

Yes, or a (commonly found) broken wire at the Ignition Switch making contact where it should not.

Oh, hey, you are in the right pace to be fussing with your V11! These folks rock! The original Bitubo dampers were (are) pretty awful about leaking. I replaced mine years ago with a nicely made Shindy (Japanese) unit. That shop is no longer, but thay can probably be hunted up. I'll look up links and model number later if you like . . .

Makes sense. Pretty sure there are other grounds indicated on the wiring diagram that actually are terminals at the battery, but the diagram does not make that clear. Wouldn't it be great if this were as simple as one of the ground wires got pushed out of sight? Still, must agree with Lucky Phil that a broken wire at the Ignition Switch can be the culprit.

I wish that made sense to me. Pretty sure there was more than one or two negative terminals on my RedFrame. I know the later wiring is different. [edit: two plus the main ground=3 on the RedFrame Sport.]

Perhaps someone with factory wiring on their 2003 can confirm the number of negative terminals? I would have thought three: one for the Fuel/Ignition harness, one for the Lighting/Switching harness, and the big one to the back of the gearbox . . .

You know, as much as I like the way the bridge sets off the Sport in that image, this amazing backdrop is awesome:

My redneck stiffener and load-out support. This is generally my heavy side with air compressor, jumper cables, tools, voltmeter, blah-blah-blah . . .

Are you determined to stay with the OEM Bitubo?

I'm thinking it turned out pretty okay, buddy . . .