docc

Right? And realize the Lighting/Switching Harness changed once. Pretty sure the Fueling/Ignition Harness remained the same except for the fuel pump connections. (Pretty sure . . .)

With both the Fuel/Ignition and the separate Lighting harness affected, it is either something central (mixed up or missing battery terminals/ something amiss under the fuse block). Or it is more than one thing contributing. Battery terminals are a great start place. Protect your ECU case from a stray spark from the positive side! Did the main ground to the back of the gearbox get removed and not replaced?

We'll see about durability. Thanks @KINDOY2 for putting me onto the SEM product! The Krylon just scratched off after a time of use.

Someone else recently asked if the bolt pattern of the fuel filler caps is the same between the early (chin-pad) tanks and the later, longer tanks with the internal pump/filter . . .

Today's project! Taped off the buckles and zippers last night. I've used common spray paint in the past, but this time KINDOY2 helped me source some proper product: SEM® Color Coat, Landau Black: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smm-15013 "Purple-b-gone!"

How about it @mznyc , progress? Looks like cosmo is having similar issues . . .

I was editing my reply with more info while you posted. Lots of simple things to work through, but good to get guzzidiag to connect so you can verify your CO Fuel Trim is zero. Also, critical to baseline the TPS, with the throttle plate fully closed, at 157mV. (Both of these steps are part of the "Decent Tune-up" and every other complete tuning method used.)

nope. Make sure your Run ("kill") Switch stays in the Run position and use the Ignition Switch. For the model selection, use your year range LeMans. Simple enough to delete the PC III and see what changes. So many little things can add up to give us that annoying "pop."

So, I built a replacement internal support plate for this broken one. This material is pretty brittle and, evidently, this one took an impact at some point. I decided on this 5-ply 1/8" cutting mat material thinking it wouldn't split or crack. I got a decent facsimile, yet it is not as rigid, or thick, as I would like. If you are running Tekno bags, take time to inspect the internal rigid panels from time to time or after an impact. Especially the deepest mounting panel.

If the 1100 Sport-i uses one relay (like the V11) for fuel injectors, fuel pump, and ignition coils, that one will definitely benefit from the High Current OMRON. I seem to recall there are fewer relays in the Sport-i (3?), but IDK for sure. For any micro ISO relay application, I can't see any downside to using the High Current OMRON. Do the Sport-i relays have the same base configuration? https://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics/g8he1c7trdc12-42670683.html

Well, then, I'll be first on this list, "If you ever decide to sell it . . . I'm taking you out behind the shed and beat some sense into you!"

How many people are ahead of me on the "If you ever decide to sell it . . ." list?

Thanks, Jason! I got a spare set of Tekno to replace my originals that really show their miles. I'm going to have to refurbish them replacements as one has a fractured internal support plate and they are both that funky pale purple. Planning on posting my solution for replacing the support plate. Thanks, again, for the post!

Correct. Classic signs of Relay #2 (and Relay#1 on early V11). Even “good” relays can be under rated. If the battery is a PC545, check the voltage sequence and perform conditioning as indicated. Maybe she’s just “gettin’ to know ya!”

"Stone" can mean more than one thing, but if it is a 2003, I presume this is a V11 "EV" with the 5 speed gearbox?

The 888 looks to have a zinc chromate side case. Great images! Thanks for sharing the recollections.

Right? I see that the brake torque rod on the Daytona racer is likely tied to the swingarm (not the frame) just like the drum brake on my GB500. Seems that is solved on the V11 with the extended caliper bracket that is located by the pivot bolt through the swingarm (later V11 have a clip through the inboard tip of that bolt to prevent it backing out and sending us halfway to a bad day . . .

Looking closely at the images in the article Mikko posted, seems that Daytona racer has a chassis rod on both sides?

So, the Moto Guzzi reaction rod appeared on the SpineFrame Daytona c. 1992? When I had decided to move on from my café '75 GoldWing because I had run out of ground clearance (and it weighed 650 lbs/295 kg), I rode a GreenFrame 1000S. I had heard of "shaft jacking", but never experienced it before that. The GW didn't do it for some reason (maybe those 650 pounds!). It was one of the things that kept me away from the 1000S; did not feel good to me rolling on out of the corners trying to stand itself up and go straight. Gosh, but it was a lusty looking thing, though . . .

"Cadwell" . . . I had to look that up. Just nuts!

I recall being instructed that control arm bushings on a passenger car should be torqued with the vehicle weight bearing, not with the suspension hanging, to index the bushings at ride height. Not sure if this is applicable to the V11 reaction rod if the bushings are designed to be part of the kinetic chain?

Not knocking it, just trying to understand it (and share that the front bolt could get neglected). I totally neglected to consider the rear tire as part of the "system!"

Did the first get "repurposed?"

Funny, after tampering with my Sport from new, I started looking at the yellow marking paint as "don't forget to mess with this one too!"

Heh, well, my parts catalog says "plug block." I'm sure that sounds better in Italian...