docc

I'm thinking by "foam strip" you are referring to the "chin pad" of early tanks? I found this thread by @cash1000 , but can see what you mean by making the ring stand out more. Also, be aware that deforming the chin pad can make them prone to loss by compromising the attachments underneath:

By "transmission", Cabernet, do you refer to the gearbox or the rear(bevel)drive? I ask because the torque reaction/chassis rod only connects from the reardrive to the frame. Otherwise, the movement of the swingarm is damped by the shock absorber while the drive line forces (acceleration/deceleration) are damped by the cush drive in the V11 reardrive hub as well as the "cush drive" inside the gearbox itself. My understanding (that is always evolving . . .) is that the torque reaction/chassis rod checks rotation movement of the reardrive by resisting motion along its axis (not rotation of the bushes) to limit, or eliminate, the tendency of shaft drive/ bevel box bikes' rear suspension to rise and fall rolling on and off the throttle. BTW, your solution to having these bushes made is stellar, IMO!

Yeah, Cabernet had some manufactured and offered to the community back in April, 2020. Others I know have made them from Delrin. Here is Tom M's solution from 2017. Is there any factory procedure for installing the reaction rod/ "chassis rod" on the Daytona, Sport 1100, Centauro, or 1100 Sport-i? (I'm pretty sure not all those models have the same cast reaction rod, only the Centauro and 1100Sport-i.) These bolts look to be 10mm with a locking nut ("NyLoc"). in the absence of a specific torque specification, should they really be torqued to 50 Nm like any other 10mm fastener? No doubt, that much torque would pinch the forward frame bracket and "capture" the inner sleeve of the bush.

Thanks, again, Lucky Phil, for the thoughtful reply. True, I've been expecting the rubber to disappear from my bushes for a long while. I cannot find anything on the "chassis rod" in the Workshop manual other than how to release the rear pivot bolt to remove the reardrive.

Rose ("Heim") joints always seemed a good idea for this application. I know it has been done by some. FWIW, I didn't leave the bolts totally loose, but also did not crank them down as tight as possible. The rod will still stand straight out on its own, but will rotate under hand pressure. Maybe there is an actual tightening spec in the manual, but not likely. At the very least, I should not have let all that corrosion build up in there.

Many of us have been aware that the rubber part of the torque reaction rod can deteriorate or tear and become loose. It has always mystified me that the bushing appears captured by the "pivot" bolt creating (what has seemed to me) something like a "torsion rod" that would interfere, even limit, suspension movement. Seems to me it would be better for the spring and damping to work without that interference. With the reardrive off and swingarm out, my torque rod has always just stuck straight out like a . . . uh, well, stuck straight out from the bracket on the frame cross member. Sliding the rear pivot bolt through without the reardrive, I realized there is clearance for the torque rod bushing to actually pivot without "capturing" the bushing and stressing the rubber part. Upon removing the front bolt it occurred to me that I can't recall ever pulling it out . . . "OH, that's why [ it doesn't pivot ]" . . . Cleaned it up, BelRay Waterproof Grease, and only set the tightness on the locking nut to allow the torque rod to pivot without clamping the bushing hard into the bracket. Proper Witness Protection Marks to monitor and a promise to add this to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist . . . Friends don't let friends let their pivot bolts seize up!

I've been looking over my TechPrep on the Sport for the SpineRaid: two months and about two thousand miles. Got some good things done, made a few discoveries, and got snuck up on that once . . . Down to to a rear tire (I don't want to be THAT guy, again! ) and staving off the Waddington Effect. Four weeks out! Cheers, y'all!

I copied the "Image Location" from your duplicate thread and pasted into your reply, then deleted the duplicate thread. (Hope that's okay, bud . . . )

@swooshdave . . . . And . . . so . . . what of this swoosh'stang?

Good plan! That, Caig Deoxit®, and heat shrink on all the regulator connectors. The new stator has spade connectors to the regulator which feel quite a bit more positive in their connection than the "bullet" connectors that never felt tight. Having groomed all the connectors behind the front subframe together made the stator/regulator swap very approachable without having to pull the tank.

Of course, @Guzzi2Go and @luhbo were entirely correct that in spite of all the little things I tried, the battery light flicker at idle after riding remained. Until I finally changed the regulator. Although the charging remained 14.2V or above, it appears the old regulator had "failed in a special way" and was "on its way out" with continuity developing between the red charging wire and the case. I never thought of monitoring for continuity there, but it makes sense. New regulator: no more flicker.

Aye, V11 clutch makes for busy times . . .

Yes, I typically state valve clearances Intake first, then Exhaust. I'll edit posts to make clear it is opposite.

I had to get home to confirm in mm. I believe "world spec" is commonly thought of as 0.20/0.15mm (0.008"/0.006"), Exhaust/ Intake. Thank you, again, for sharing this with the community!

Thanks, Meinolf! I’ll “pin” this (probably in “How to ...”). Is it acceptable to adjust V11 valves to the “world spec” with your map?

Right, the raised one for fuel vapor "recovery" gets captured by a seal under the gas cap when it is closed to create a closed system (assuming the charcoal canisters and one-way check valve are installed). "Tank suck" led to some or all of this being defeated over time. If the greater gas cap seal is functional, water in "the trough" should not enter the the tank unless the drain is blocked and the level is deep enough to spill in when the cap is opened . . .

This should drain off through the overflow. Check to make sure the overflow is not blocked or its hose kinked? When using a pressurized hose to spray the Sport, I try to use minimum pressure and volume while being careful not to direst the spray onto sensitive areas (electrics, gauges etc). Then use an electric air blower to get water out of traps and crevices.

I've always avoided reading amperage/current with my multi-meters for that reason. The lamp is a great trick I always forget about! No doubt the batteries will discharge from charging level voltages after coming off a charger or being ridden. A healthy AGM looks to take 24 hours or more to fall off into the 90%+ range (12.75-12.84v). When this stator failed, the battery had gone too dead to start the bike. After I repaired the stator and charged the battery, it fell off to ~50% overnight (not characteristic of this conditioned PC545 at all). Disconnecting the red charge wire stopped the discharge. Replacing the regulator definitely stopped the discharge. Testing resistance, I found continuity from the red charging wire to the regulator case/ground under 1k Ω.

Well then, when removing the speedometer drive from the gearbox (for whatever reason), be it known that there are TWO thrust washers. The one shown above and the second I was lucky enough to find three years later hugging the magnetic drain plug . . .

Well, no puffing. Lots done recently, just trying to get her back to another SpineRaid . . . .

Is that a trick question? Of course you should pull it out! I'll "write you a note" . . . (116,912 miles/ 188.568 km as she sits. Hoping to button it all up this evening and make an even 117k miles tomorrow . . .)

Hey, my man! Great to see you on! Just here milking this old Sport for all she's worth. And then some! At the very least, I've learned how to get to the front UNI!

Probably much closer to the jagged edge: Guzzis .... or strip-pers.

Third batch, yah? First gen: zinc chromate finish, second gen: black powder coat, third gen: ?? "Collect them all! "