docc

In my sometimes awkward, or even embarrassing, position of calling back over my shoulder to other V11-ers to look out for someting-or-another, the front U-joint has remained an enigma. No doubt, the access to the nasty bugger changed with the LongFrame (for the better) in 2002. We know, now, that the spine frame, itself, made its new length at the headstock while the swingarm and frame side plates remained unchanged. The only thing I can see, or propose, is that the redesigned, "braced" rear lower subframe allows the swingarm to tip down ever so slightly more than the early un-braced subframe giving just enough clearance to get a modified grease gun contraption on (and off) the Zerk. Like many others with a ShortFrame (RedFrame or Rosso Mandello), I resigned myself to removing the swingarm every third rear tire (about 12,000 miles/20.000 km for me). It is really a straightforward prospect. With a lift and proper jacking, tie-downs, light, tools, time, and an air conditioned space with a coffee maker and a beer cooler . . . Also a great opportunity to address and handful of other important tasks: rear brake bleed (nipple up!), clutch bleed, clear the gearbox vent, inspect and rotate the swingarm bearings, inspect the torque reaction rod bushings, inspect the shock eye (lube its bushing and grease the pivot bolt), and ABOVE ALL: grease That Bloody Farking Front UNI Joint! Whether I did not get to mine often enough or it just went as long as it could before freezing in one direction, who knows. But a U-joint with one direction of motion becomes a J-joint. [cue docc, calling back over his shoulder: "Grease that bloody, farking front UNI, boys!" (even if you have to pull your swingarm . . .)]

Thanks for bringing this to light, Lucky Phil! True that bubbles start to form in water at 70C. Those bubbles (of water vapor) don’t readily rise to the surface at that temperature, so likely would have a hard time escaping something more viscous like motor oil. Seems motors stored in dampness and high humidity for longer periods would benefit from the higher operating temperatures and/or longer rides. Given the choice, I recommend the longer rides!

Finally, a clinically derived solution to properly treat That Bloody Farking Front UNI Joint on of the early ShortFrame V11 . . .

I do miss the way @dangerous could title a thread and make the original post sing . . . I think I finally have enough experience and insight to add something to that epic thread . . .

Is this our dear @belfastguzzi ? Sure do miss his coming about and keeping us cheered up!

Splitting the Extender posts to that topic . . . Stand by in the Transporter Room . . .

Simply copy the URL from the YooToob address bar and paste into your post without using the link function and . . . (Hey, that's the pressure just cranking!!)

Having chased so many hiccup/stutter/pop/ misfire over these many years, it still surprises me when the Sport smooths out after some improvement in the charging system. Just something more to consider before the IPA runs low . . .

My understanding it is the OEM for the 2000 V11 Sport: Ducati Energia 343637

Thanks for putting the new thread up, knumbnutz. This has been too valuable a discussion to lose.

Safely moved all of the interesting discussion about the custom twin and so may excellent replies about technology and engines and such. (Leaving the fragment about The Studs. They deserve it!)

Yeah, well it would charge but run my battery down to 50% (~12.54 volts) just sitting overnight. Seems that is an unacceptable electron leak. All good with the new stator and R/R. Just trying to keep us all aware what to watch for in this common area of concern. This is my fourth R/R (the first two went about 30,000 miles/ 48.000 km and the third went 45,000 miles/ 72.500 km after grounding the case to the engine). Third stator, but I have learned to be much more mindful removing and replacing the alternator cover because of connection strain. This latest ElectroSport has addressed that known issue as well as changing the weak "bullet" connectors to spade types (much more positive connection, it seems).

Still trying to rope you into a South'n SpineRaid, buddy! Pretty sure I wrote you a note, already . . .

Ah, okay, I see what you mean now. It looks to retain a straight through mechanical drive. Not sure what that is about . . .

Perfect for cooking off the moisture!

Thanks, gstallons! Testing voltage through this "bad" regulator, there is flow through from the yellow wires (input from the alternator) to the red (regulator output to the battery), but not the other way. So, those diodes are good. Yet, there is also voltage flowing from the red wire to the case (ground) which does not occur on my new regulator. So, somehow, this regulator has developed a relatively minor internal short and discharges the battery even with the key off. I also wonder if a short like that would overwork the alternator increasing heat and the chance of stator failure.

Looks like that electronic drive is driven off the gearbox mechanical output to create the signal. Pretty sure the only time you would block off the gearbox output is when going to a GPS speedometer. Clearance for the throttle linkage is always an issue, and the reason why early V11 angle drives and later "bent tube" cable ends give us so much consternation . . .

Good folks like @czakky and @JRD will be glad to know that proper "studs" are an integral part of of our anachronistic, basic, modern V11 pushrod engines. Pretty sure these studs knew that already . . .

Here are MartyNZ's relay temperature readings in ºC. Mine are a few posts above in ºF . . .

Yep: "20/10" . . . Best to have well made 35/20 . I have seen this solve so many running (and other) issues.

You’ll likely have them in a couple days. Let us know how this turns out. Simple stuff first!

I recall @Rolf Halvorsen securing an inventory of these in Norway. Perhaps he still has some available?

Certainly does not sound like a problem with the Run Switch, then. I did learn from guzzidiag to leave the Run Switch on and use only the Ignition Switch to turn on and off.

Relays get hot in use. Especially under-rated relays (common) in a high current position (ignition/fuel like Relay#5 on our V11). We have a thread with some IR temperature testing I can probably find . . . )

That’s normal. The Clutch Switch only locks out the starter. Once running, it will run in neutral with the stand down?