docc

Hmm . . . a SmartGuzzi? Pretty sure I'll have to keep using my voltmeter. Someone asked me how long a PC545 should take to drop from charge termination to 100% (12.84v), then to the 85% (12.65v) threshold to recharge. I just terminated my Sport's 6 year old PC545 (not the ten year old in swampee-the-test-bed) from the EnerSys 6amp Ultimizer at 13.56 volt "float" after a discharge/charge session a couple days ago. I consider this a strong AGM, even serving the Sport six years. Perhaps the drop intervals will be helpful to those trying to assess the strength of theirs. I could not imagine running a V11 reliably, long term, without a quality DVOM.

As a fan of Johnny Cash's, "I've Been Everywhere, Man," this parody cracks me up . . .

How about posting the resistance of the primaries for comparison when they show up!

So, all batteries are charged at voltage above their 100%, but no battery will hold voltage above 100%. Any voltage drop after charging down to 100% is normal. How long it takes to drop (minutes, hours, days) can give some indication the battery's general health. The longer it takes to drop to 100%, then 85%, the stronger the battery is. The temperature corrected values are not radically over a 20ºF range.

I know my modern passenger vehicles with 6-7 quart/liter sumps and extended change intervals have made me complacent in keeping the oil "up on the stick" (some don't even have "sticks!"). Coming up on an oil change with those sumps a quart low is no big deal, apparently. Yet, they are not some air-cooled performance motor ready to shift the volume of available lubricant dramatically aft at the whim of the throttle twist up some exciting grade . . . Makes me glad to have raked my "sags" forward and stiffened the rear substantially. No more "squat" in hard acceleration.

Bringing the wife's V7, but no mention of bringing the wife . . . Musta looked through some South'n SpineRaid archives and thought, "Hide the wimmins!"

So, why not at least wait and monitor how long it takes to drop to 100% (12.84 volts @ 77ºF)?

This makes me feel like the Sport at 90mph in third gear, "Bitch on the Run!"

Not sure about the fitment, but here is an excellent post by Greg Field comparing crossovers:

I really think that is normal. Monitor how long it takes them to drop to 12.65v then discharge/charge. Never allow the charge voltage to exceed 15.0 volts.

I believe I see swooshbro has joined us! Hope to see you and the Café Sport at the S'xteenth South'n SpineRaid just over the mountains, bud!

I would think @biesel would know these tuning parameters such as the TPS setting and if the CO Fuel Trim can be set easily with guzzidiag.

Hey, thanks Jaap! And thanks to LuckyPhil for this thread's continuity. Amazing-amazing V10 RedFrame!

Okay, ouch, I forgot to list that I disconnect the regulator when charging externally. I know that practice has been called into question, but it is in the literature and I can do it by pulling my circuit breaker switch. Otherwise, you must pull the fuse when using a charger. That just concerns me that the flinky fuse connectors will loosen, heat up, and fail. The Tyco 30 amp circuit breaker has been one of the most quality mods I have done to my Sport. None of my 30 amp charging fuse modifications worked out, not even the "MAXI" fuse.

I don't see any miles on that salvage bike. Not bad money, but too bad they are so disassembled with no TPS, no injectors, no linkage ball-end, missing fasteners. Let's remember that maxv11 still has his engine parts for sale . . .

More good questions, buddy. So, use a quality voltmeter and check "the voltage sequence" listed in the > √ Answered < post. Charging at "some rpm" should be 13.8-14.2. Is your regulator grounded to the timing chest/engine? Is your main ground to the back of the gearbox squared away as well as the battery terminal cleaned and treated?

Yeah, man, that is an excellent question. This is the regulator I use (OEM type). I replaced my first two at about 30,000 miles/ 50.000 km. Number two got a robust ground strap to the timing chest. I bought number three about a year after I changed the melty, charred 30 amp charging fuse to the Tyco circuit breaker and switched to High Current OMRON relays and for years after adopting this, admittedly meticulous, conditioning regimen. Not only has the replacement regulator been in the spares pile two years/ 10,000 miles beyond expecting to change it, my OdysseyPC545s are lasting longer. The regulator case ground is critical. Making sure your 30 amp charging fuse is not melting/ charring is, as well (while the "fix" for that is a bit more involved). My hypothesis that routinely conditioning the Odyssey to spec may relieve stress on the rather nefarious charging system/regulator seems to be paying off for me. [Full disclosure, I also have groomed and treated my entire wiring harness including the Battery Terminals and Ignition Switch with Caig DeOxit®, built terminal junctions to reduce the terminal stack on the battery, and installed LED headlight/taillight/rear signals. I still think that the ground strap, 30 amp fuse solution, and the routine battery conditioning have made the major difference.] Asking our weedy regulator/rectifier to bring an Odyssey up from below 12.65 volts is liking your stripper girlfriend to shovel snow in her work clothes. She'll do it, but she an;t gonna be happy . . .

Looks like a "work in progress." FWIW, my music feeds are not playing right from the web, either . . . On a high note, taking the Sport out tomorrow for a distanced rendezvous with other riders.

Great news, Grim! (Note that gstallons corrected the 450 mV to 540 mV. Likely give you a more stable, albeit higher, idle.)

You bet! And relays like this get sold as "35 amp" relays. It is totally misleading. One of the reasons the Best Relay thread is so long. The other was how steep that learning curve was for me. At this point, it would not shock me that what Grim is wrestling with is not a single source problem, but a combination of additive issues. Once sorted, these challenges often lack the satisfaction of a particular "Eureka!" moment, yet leaves us with an exceedingly well sorted V11 . . . Hang in there, Grim! You're on the right track and doing a lot of things right!

Why is 0.6 Ohms "very low?" What would expect to see?

If it's this view, I'm not seeing any stripes. Only the early chin pad and a belt buckle protector and shadows from the clip-on/clutch lever . . .

@WeegieYeah, we could take this back over to the (lengthy) Best Relay thread, but in short the NO contact of most micro relays (Panasonic included) is 20 amps. The NO contact on our #5 carries the injectors, coils, and fuel pump coming in at some 22.5 amps. Check how hot yours gets as an indication how well it's working. @Grim Those compression numbers seem fine. Certainly symmetrical. If your battery went flat that quickly, perhaps getting it well conditioned and swapping the relays (3<->5) is worth the small fuss. Otherwise, I still ponder about grooming your exhaust, getting all lined up and fully seated at every joint. The last time I had to set my air screws very much differently, I found the intake vacuum taps had loosed up enough to cause trouble.