docc

Your Panasonic are the best of your mix. So sorry that the true High Current OMRON are NLA. They are amazing in this application. So, I also have pondered how your exhaust system is groomed and sealed. Asymmetry, and even small leaks could affect your Flapper Test. Even without materially reducing any performance. Can you ride it and get a feel for its real world performance?

That may be an opportunity. The Panasonic are good relays, but are under-rated for the fifth position (fuel injection/ignition), especially. True High Current (micro) Relays have become hard to come by, but worth sourcing. As a minimum, swap your middle relay (Neutral Switch Relay) with the fifth (FI/Ignition) and repeat your hand-flapper test . . .

I'm gonna reach sideways here and ask what relays (make/model) are in the last two positions (at the back)?

I had been thinking how important it is to make sure the high idle mechanism is not fouling the throttle stop. And that the fussy right side idle stop screw did not interfere with your TPS baseline . . . Compression test (or even a leak-down test) will set some heavy concerns aside.

Gotta love it when an OP drifts his own thread just to recover some perspective. We're not giving up on your left cylinder, Grim!

My understanding is that it is better to let it discharge statically after terminating the float charge, but not below 12.65v (at 77ºF/25ºC). Although, the approved chargers supposedly "know" what to do and you can leave them connected.

All good stuff, po18guy! My understanding is the full discharge to 10v is for deeply discharged Odysseys. That should not be necessary for batteries charged from the 12.65 discharge threshold, although "knocking off the surface charge" with the lights on a few minutes should be helpful getting a deeper charge. I also monitor the voltage after the lights are on a few minutes. A healthy battery will stay above 12.0v.

Too odd. I saw it earlier, but not now. I'll see if I can reset it . . . [edit: okay, there you go. Thanks for heads-up!]

From where I sent it upstream, it got sent further upstream . . . Thanks for pointing it out. Fortunately, it is one hidden glitch that does not affect the running of a Daytona motor . . .

That is a great question. Click on the " √ Answered " bar by the topic title to reveal what is, hopefully, a concise summary post.

It could be possible that you have bumped into your attachment limit: "48.83 MB attachment limit. " Click on your username, upper right, open "My Attachments" and view the percentage bar. [edit: hmm, nope, the Gallery/Album images (somehow separate from "Attachments") are not acting right. I'll ask upstream . . .]

And a snappy dresser!

At least we know why you're mad. Some people are mad, and no one knows why . . .

If you pull a plug wire and put a screwdriver in it, holding it close to a grounded surface, see if both sides throw the same, bright, strong spark.

That 4A charger will likely be just fine if you don't let the battery sit and drop below 12.65v before discharging (turn the lights on a few minutes) and charging it. If it gets below that threshold, it takes six amps or more (no limit, Odyssey says) to actually charge. One of the bewildering things is that a flat battery can go on a charger and the little green light comes on, but the battery doesn't stay charged well. This is because the charge is largely on the surface and not deep in the plates. Odyssey uses pure lead plates, not just a thin layer of lead paste like others. This is why they require significant amperage to truly charge (and stay charged).

Reserved a room at the inn and a garage space. Seems that adds up to three "guests" including the Sport. Makes me proud she is considered a guest of her own!

Understanding the voltage sequences, and amperage requirements, is key to the care&feeding of an Odyssey PC545. Sure, it means extra care and understanding, but how is that different from caring for a twenty year old (magnificent) Italian motorcycle?

Dig deeper and you’ll find the 6 amp minimum and 12.65v charge threshold. I’ve seen these things brought back from states that other batteries would not survive.

Yeah, the Odyssey is a unique animal. These procedures are for the Odyssey. It will perform in ways other AGM will not. And treating our Odyssey like another manufacturer's AGM can be a formula for disappointment.

Definitely a much better charger than your previous! That 13.5 float voltage checks out. Be aware that Odyssey states the PC545 “will not charge” with less than a minimum of 6 amps, so a 4 amp charger is not ideal. Still, that is tons better than the 1/2 - 1.5 amp tricklers. Using a voltmeter to assess what the state of charge is doing, and how long it holds, is very revealing beyond the little green light. Odyssey publishes a list of approved chargers.

footgoose is correct on the Metal Jacket. First thing, look at the serial number and extract the date code. It is the day and year of manufacture. Here is a date code example: "The serial number…06GCS061250340 shows that the battery was manufactured on the 125th day of 2006 " If you have the right charger(s), a good voltmeter, and the time and inclination, I would certainly work at the conditioning. But, equally important, clean and condition your battery terminals and starter connections as well as the nefarious main ground to the gearbox. Caig DeOxit® is Chuck-magic for this operation! [edit: It occurred to me to suggest you inspect the condition of you 30 amp charging fuse. A melted or charred fuse or connections indicates high resistance there and possibly impaired charging.]

Man, I hope someone brings this Sport to the S'xteenth South'n SpineRaid! https://www.ebay.com/itm/303557389322

The Workshop Manual states 3.6º +/- 0.5º opening which translates to 5.10-5.38 mV. FWIW, I'm still in the camp that says that idle value doesn't matter if you have everything else right. Seems to me there are a lot of variables that could affect your individual V11 and the individual rider's desired idle.

All good on leaving discussion here. The first post with the 6-step “Decent Tune-up” remains as a reference. I just wanted to clarify for those trying to decide where to start and what to do. Certainly, there have been numerous approaches to this tuning. The Workshop Manual specifies idle in degrees opening of the throttle plate. This has been converted to mV. I’ll look up the values and post later just for FYI.

Just to clarify relative to the thread topic, this interesting discussion and mechanical linkage adjustment is not part of the “Decent Tune-up” but offers some alternatives for certain aspects of tuning the V11. @gstallons : Why the specific idle mV? Why not just set it to some desired rpm at that point?