docc

That is kind of you, Sir. Still, I just took the time to bring some things together from reliable sources and document outcomes.

That is an excellent (counter?) point! Lots of us have had that same experience. Testimony to just how durable and tenacious these things are? Pretty sucky when they fail (always at a bad time) and we have to admit we didn't follow the manufacturer's specific recommendations. For the record, I didn't make this stuff up. I'm not that smart.

Yessir! It is referenced in the Tank-off Maintenance Checklist, bullet (>) #19:

The Workshop Manual states the vacuum should be within 5mm Hg (mercury) as I recall. Again, no pure specification, only the maximum allowable variance. I am not sure if your gauges are already calibrated to display mm Hg? (Seems my Sport pulls the Hg columns into the 50s at around 2500-3000 rpm. Oh, and gstallons is right on about sucking the mercury. Chopping the throttle from 3000 would be a bad idea!

No matter the value, they should just be the same.

A buddy sent me the CL listing on this Sport a few days ago. I read through it and had to reply, "This V11 Sport totally checks out." Then I realized it is JBBenson's. So yeah, "This V11 Sport totally checks out."

Waiting (and waiting) for some awesome image of a certain Daytona-powered RedFrame from somewhere "down-under" . . .

Yeah, my shafts are pretty wobbly (and leaky), too . . . I even bought a set of lower mile throttle bodies, but got my Sport to stabilize securing the vacuum taps/caps and grooming the exhaust (leaks). Quite surprising to me , actually.

Nearly fifteen years and 118 pages, I am impressed by how many of the older images still display (many don't). Every now and then, I enjoy scrolling through and looking at some awesome images that have been shared on this thread. Like this contributor, Daniel Kalal, who hasn't been on here for over ten years, but this image (on page 2) is just very moving, IMO:

Setting the TPS baseline should not be affected by the cable since it is on the left and the linkage rod is disconnected from the right throttle body to get that plate fully closed for the 157mV baseline. Could affect the idle returning to same place every time, though . . .

Okay, seriously, yes: synch the throttle bodies "at some rpm." Doesn't have to be 3k, but definitely not at idle unless that is where you expect to operate the engine most of the time. I tried synching at 4,500 once and the Sport spit my (former) voltmeter off onto the floor . . .

Do it now while they can't come over . . .

So, the CO stays the same, just that the engine has to be operating temperature to change it using guzzidiag. A throttle body synch would likely works wonders. You could score TwinMax or equivalent in lieu of some kind of manometer or "carb sticks." I saw a pretty impressive improvement from "grooming" my exhaust and tightening up all those leaky joints. There were only a couple sooty ones and they weren't bad, so it surprised me when it made a noticeable difference. Seriously, though, buddy, gotta synch those throttle bodies!

I've had minute intake and/or exhaust leaks do that to my Sport (among myriad other things). You didn't mention CO Fuel Trim setting or throttle body synchronization . . .

Heh, well we've been blowing that up pretty much from the start! Yet, in the spirit of the topic, here is the first image, posted oy Orson in July 2005 of his Tenni in it's natural habitat (the Alps!):

All good advice. Although, the idle speed could be further considered. There is no TPS target value that is critical for idle. Once all the other steps are completed, set the idle speed where you like it. That said, if you are using the bike's tachometer to set idle speed, verify its reading with guzzidiag. I have seen them read 300-500 rpm high. This translates to your 1100 rpm idle being 600-800 (no good!). A couple other things to check out: First, connect an ohm meter to the TPS and slowly open and close it looking for a jump in resistance, or an open. The progression up and down should be smooth and progressive. Also, even the tiniest intake or exhaust leaks can be problematic. Last year, I found slightly loose vacuum taps ans dried out rubber caps wreaking havock on my Sport's state of tune. Performing a grooming session on your exhaust would be worthwhile. Loosen it all up and de-stress all the joints and junctions making sure they are well seated, tighten in a "star" pattern in steps starting at the heads. IMO, the front crossover just adds more places for exhaust leaks with no known benefit.

Thank you all, so dearly, for sharing the music! Gettin' me through . . . This last one had me pullin' on The Velveteen Rabbit . . .

I so seriously love that back LeMans/ Red frame sideplate ("Stilettos" ) with the red ignition wires! Nice find, bridge! Your excitement is palpable!

Or a "Gow-Job!" Just learned this from the Hagerty Drivers Club: 6 hot rod body styles you need to know

You say that like it’s a bad thing!

Replacing the studs sounds next to impossible without removing the gearbox, IMO.

I’m thinking that is your RedFrame in Scud’s image. In that case, your sump should match the gearbox rather swimmingly!

While it is apart is ideal. You will not be disappointed in a better shock. Yet, riding it a season with the Sachs will give you the joy of knowing the improvement!

Referring to that apparent extension with the bracket and hose? (I've never seen that before . . .)

And the Sport-i driveline is only ~5mm offset like the V11?