docc

Pretty sure it is not that the ECU had such a high ground demand, but that major ground demands (starter!!) were not being met and found their way back there. Also, be sure to add a ground strap from your regulator to the engine (timing chest). Make sure all your grounds, and connections, are clean, tight, and "treated" . . . Caig DeOxit®, baby!

This is a really excellent question for @Meinolf No doubt, his are the most thoroughly and precisely developed V11 maps, ever. What would be the effect of using the latest Meinolf map with the more typical, closer, valve clearances (0.15 & 0.20mm/ 0.006"/0.008") ?

All three?!? "Two is a coincidence, but three is a collection!"

The most likely culprit that would melt up the ground side of the harness is a corroded, failed main grounding point behind the seat latch lock at the rear of the gearbox on the right, perhaps along with corroded/loose/failed battery terminals. This fail can go really badly for the minimal grounding back through the harness along the frame . .

"Wiggle Test" is something I learned from a book on "Preparing the Ford Sierra for Motorsport" (The US Merkur XR4Ti). That thing made the V11 look like the pinnacle of engineering and design success. What the relay/fuse wiggle will not find are the nefarious, hidden spade connectors under the fuse block for Fuses #1/ECU and #2/Fuel/Ignition. One of those jiggles loose and it can drive you mad.

So, I had to go back and try to understand Kiwi_Roy's Go_Winkie set-up I added to Fuse#8 and figure out how to use it. It does not read the fuel/ignition circuit of Fuse#2/Relay#5 exactly as I recalled. Just not that simple . . . [No Go_Winkie indicator could also be a battery positive open.]

stewgnu gives us a "hey up!" on the possibility of the seat latch cable fouling (mithering, even!) the 5th relay/ base:

So, my seat latch cable is tied to the outboard side of the subframe tube well clear of the relays and bases. Thanks for the hey-up on that Stewgnu! Now I'm looking at my Go_Winkie wired into Fuse#8 (early electric petcock circuit) and wondering if it really reads the FI circuit correctly. Another topic, I know . . .

I also label the fuse functions as to be visible from the left side on the side stand. (Likewise, ignore the 30 amp Maxi fuse, that did not work and been superseded by a circuit breaker.)

Pay no mind to the relays in this view, the image is only to show my method of labeling relay functions: Start - Lights - Neutral - ECU - Fuel/Ignition

Hey-yep . . . stand by . . . That rear-most relay (#5) is the majorly stressed fuel injection/ignition relay. It also feeds Relay#4 for the ECU, so that is part of the completely separate wiring harness for the V11 to run and includes fuses #1 and #2. This is the circuit that Kiwi_Roy's "Go_Winkie" monitors. I recall K_Roy's measurements confirmed Relay5 carries some 22.5 amps. Definitely un-good for a 20 amp relay, especially if the Chinese have over-rated it . . . [edit: Best Relay] Also critical the relays make good contact. [edit: Relay Base Repair] Great catch finding the seat latch cable against the 5th relay! Going to check mine now . . .

“[On the Guzzi, every old fogey on the road will want to stop you and chat you up!]” That is V11LeMans.com in a >nut<shell!

Speedhut!

So, you do have a yellow/black that went to the tach before? Also, whatever you new tach uses may not be this signal, but from the coils? What is make/type your new tach, BTW?

RPM reference is from the ECU, as I recall. [edit: yep, looks to be yellow/black (on the early V11 1999-2001, at least.]

That is so dear. And so kindly to share. "Old tools are like old friends that you have shared times with." [edit: I so had to add that quote, properly attributed to LuckyPhil, to my profile "About Me." That is so well said, and so resonates with what I feel we are about here. Thanks Phil!]

See? See, there? Even the true pros have a hammer well at hand!

I do like my bronze patina original to my headers, but I wouldn't care for it if it were splotchy or mottled form oil spatter, etc. I would be looking to even the finish out, but keep it "brushed" . . . .

A two week gap in posting progress either means L'Phil is on holiday in Tahiti or we about to see a quantum leap of the "V11 Daytona Project" . . .

The weights screw into the open tube of Assembly #2. As I recall, with a rather fine thread. The difficulty arises as the outer, black, tube is isolated from the inboard silver assembly and it is difficult to anchor the black outboard tube to extract the weight from the inside.

Thanks, Gio! The actual weights extend up inside the black tube from the "knobs." They can be a booger to get loose. #19:

Hey, thanks, bud. So far, all I know have checked in safe. Our primary fuel distribution and (restaurant) food distribution centers are affected. Really dedicated and smart people are working non-stop to restore services. I cannot express the admiration and amazement I have for the linemen that go out in these things to restore power and communication. And the emergency personnel that spring to action and work themselves to the bone. Every time the lightning strikes and the power goes out, I think of guys I know kissing their wife and kids on the cheek in the middle of the night saying, "Gotta go, y'all. Be right back." Firefighters I know sating, "Sorry I'm late, I was saving lives." Pull together. Be strong. Make a difference. (Thanks for asking!)

The original clip-on/weight set-up really works well as long as the throttle body balance and state of tune has been seen to. I also find Italian made ProGrip SuperBike grips help. The small, convex CRG bar-end mirrors probably damp some as well. But when I had the original bar-end weights machined down for their clamps, I learned to appreciate the cost of precision machine work. I recall it was $85US "back in the day." You could just use the original mirrors, but I got tired of the view of my elbows . . . Those original "stalk" mirrors also stick up quite a lot. Taking a page from Kane's inspiration, I recently removed my long-time Stucchi flyscreen and have been really digging going nekkid again . . .

Heh, there ya go: Spaghetti Western SpineRaid! As to bar end weights, you should score Gio's kit on offer. Resell the parts you don't need. Or keep them forever in a special cabinet squirreled away in the corner of the shop . . .

The grounded ECU case, in close proximity to the positive battery terminal is certainly a spark/short waiting to happen from a slipped spanner off the battery. I keep a patch of rubber inner tube over that corner for a little extra protection. As to why it is grounded, isn't there electronic functionality in there there requires a completed circuit (grounding)? In fact, I've always encouraged V11ers to make sure that ground is clean and tight (as all of our grounds should be!)