docc

"subpar " is quite charitable. I would have gone with "FUBAR."

I sourced braided ground strap locally and sleeved it in heat shrink. Technically, I think it is 10 gauge.

I looked back through the entire thread and have to suggest adding a dedicated ground/earth from the regulator case to the timing chest. Also, to clean/tighten/seal the main ground to the back of the gearbox on the right (behind the seat latch actuator). It would be telling if the charging voltage changes after addressing the grounds.

I have had success cleaning/ treating the switch connections. CRC Electronics Cleaner, then Caig DeOxit.

The low idle voltage could be down to a low idle. These tachs can read 300-500 rpm high. No big deal, perhaps, at cruising speeds, but setting your idle at 1,000 rpm with the tach when that is really 500-700 rpm is not good. Use Guzzidiag to confirm the actual idle and the "Decent Tune-up" for the idle procedure. Good to keep an eye on the charging voltage. The Odyssey is not to exceed 15.0 volts.

Tach totally stable? Rev it up a bit and the voltage comes up?

Yes, posted here before. What is new is how much has been added to @OzMatt's website. The man has put forth a fabulous effort to archive rare history and images. With plans for further additions, stay tuned! https://mgprotos.com/matt-compton

Not sure when @Dave Swanson added x2, but I count 41 at that point . . .

Just got this message from Ken: "We have 3 rooms open from [September] the 6th to the 8th. All are "standard" and priced at $129.00. Thank you so much for sharing! I have your flag ready to hang!"

The Lodge at Tellico has announced new innkeepers. Looks like the transition will be seamless . . . Best wishes to Bryan and Catherine and welcome Ken and Viki !

I'm sorry, I have not asked Mikko's surviving family about any of his property. I think it is still a bit soon after his sudden passing in January . . .

Certainly not in the USA. Did Australia get any Lambda V11?

"Pro Tip!"

And more, from our member @OzMatt: https://mgprotos.com/

I always hated these because I did not have the right tool for them. Plus, I did not think they are reusable (?)

Egg on my face, too. Another good catch, @Speedfrog! The CIT linked in the Best Relay thread answer are the correct 12V CIT. The Pickers Components noted by Speedfrog have slightly better current ratings, especially for the early V11 Sport's #1 Relay/NC contact position:

Edit: As noted by @Speedfrog, you had the wrong/24V product listed in your post: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cit-relay-and-switch/A11CSQ24VDC1-2D/12502798?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIIEYEGEDKBFMAWAagEWQQDow8ACEAXQF8g [Welldone, @Speedfrog!]

Inspect the connectors in the relay bases for looseness. If they need tightening, @Kiwi_Roy gave us a procedure:

Actually, it is the brake light affected (with the headlight, horn, tach, and charging) by this relay issue. The tail light is on the non-relay circuit with the running/"city" light and the instrument illumination.

I think that is "mis-leading." When you work through the Decent Tune-up, I suspect you will find the valves off, perhaps one quite tight. If Shrödinger's cat set your CO at -90, then I wonder where he thought he set your TPS . . .

As V11 go, the Coppa Italia is arguably the ultimate eye candy. Ballabio in a Mardi Gras dress with dancing shoes . . .

Hmm, maybe not. The MSRP on my 2000 Sport was $11,997US. I got a little discount since I looked like a potential Beta-tester. This reference gives the MSRP of the 2004 Coppa Italia at $14,590US: https://www.motorcycle.com/specs/moto-guzzi/standard/2004/v11/coppa-italia/detail.html#!

This is classic Relay#2 (complicated by Relay#1) failure. This compromises the tach and the charging reference.What variety of relays are under the seat, @motoguzzikc? Replace all your relays with the currently available High Current 5-pin referenced in this thread answer:

Didn't the entire V11 range 1999-2005 stay about $11,000-12,000US regardless of the model?