docc

That would be a learning experience! I've used guzzidiag on several V11 and a 1200Sport, but never have loaded a map. I did watch the late Bruce Lawson load one at the roadside on doslemans' V11.

Such that 93_6 is the latest and most refined? I would like to get that link to your latest map pinned to a dedicated thread that all can find easily. (Perhaps, one day I will stop being the poster child for the factory map and take the plunge! ) Thanks, again, Meinolf! Well done!

And here, I thought it was Moto Guzzi turning riders into mechanics (since 1921 !) . . . Fine, fine looking Kawi Zed, footgoose!

So, I am confused when it is said someone has your map "#58" or "#90" and how that relates to "93_6" . . .

+1 on the "2 scales." Plus you get the "weight distribution."

Took a bit of looking, but Scud posted an image of the two different input hubs side-by-side. (The entire thread by sp838 is very informative regarding the RAM clutch.) Can a twin-plate hub actually be turned into a single-plate style hub by having it machined?

So, valve adjustment and fresh plugs is a super easy approach to getting that out of the equation. Lots of folks have found looser valve lash to be helpful n smoothing out the pops and hiccups.

So, it is not just the pad, but the whole hard shell cover?

Seems I have Starter Relay (#1) trouble after running the headlamp current back through the relay stack. Could be connectivity. Could be that even a High Current OMRON Best Relay will only last so long when it ain't "Livin' Easy." Trying to figure out why my tach is not affected; something to do with the way the Speedhut is fed. But it is definitely not the VintageCars LED unit failing.

Interesting you guys have both been here about the same time. We had a much testier time here before that. Muuuuuuch better these days, all around, IMO. It's easy to agree that I like it better here (everywhere?) when we can all ease up. It's also easy to agree that it's nice to have all the pertinent parameters on a problem before we all dive in the problem solving (that we do seem to love so much). Trouble with that is there are now so many V11 that the present owner may not have complete knowledge on what has been changed or that any one of us might not realize a particular change is an important, even crucial, part of the puzzle. Since there really is nowhere else in the world that a V11 owner can get a solid education and reliable help to keep these beasts on the fly, I do hope anyone coming here will get a feeling of genuine support and camaraderie. On this, I believe we excel (especially in the web-world).

Dang! 203 Euro? That is just the little pad or includes the hard shell seat cover?

Thank you, Meinolf, for the excellence and sharing your work! What is the version of your map in the link above?

Thanks, LowRyter! Yeah, The Lodge at Tellico has been our digs for the last ten years. The innkeepers, Walt&Anna, are wonderful and the place really suits our activities. Not the least of which is the enclosed garage space (worth the extra ten bucks to reserve a space!). There are some other places to stay or camp around the area, as well.

That is so fabulous! Thank you, ScooRoo! What astounding history brought together to inform and encourage and motivate . . . Claudio Torri !

Twin AH inquired about routes from Vancouver to the South'n Spine Raid . . . I know y'all boys will help him out with that . . . S'xteenth South'n Spine Raid Weekend After (US) Labor Day (September 11-13, 2020) Tellico Plains, Tennessee, USA "Get there. Bring tools."

Looks as if it is time for a new thread: S'xteenth South'n SpineRaid . . .

Heh, well, that was a scientific event to test just how cold is the cliche “stone cold” we’ve all heard the motor must be in order to adjust the valves. Turns out, letting it sit about 45 minutes is all it takes for the valve lash to return to “stone cold” specs.

A man after a silver RedFrame . . . ("Let's ask the other inmates on the ward if we're really crazy . . ." )

Yeah, that is the "approximate" TPS mv at "some" idle. That procedure has been much improved and refined over these many years and many contributors . . .

Not sure why, but this unit has hesitated to come on a few times at start-up for a moment or two. I am running power back through the two front relays instead of a dedicated power/ground, but I didn't see any other signs of relay failure. Just inspected the connections in the bucket and all seems fine. I decided to take an IR heat reading on the LED unit's base after three minutes on hi-beam. Hottest spots I found were 100ºF/ 38ºC. I thought that very acceptable.

Cool, Shaun! Congratulations! That forward facing barb on the regulator is open; no hose.

Not sure it is my place to clarify, but . . . Chuck's design, built by Scud's choice of spring maker, was not "$200." That is the recent quote po18guy got from an aircraft supplier in the PNW/USA. That looks (to me) to be a "go away price." Whether Scud chooses to use the last spring maker (took them twice to get it right) or another, IDK. But, AFAIK, the $200/spring maker in the PNW is not the route of choice. Check my work, and correct me if I am wrong. Just hoping to quell the confusion.

So, I can confirm that staying in gear with the clutch disengaged is what is taught by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. I instructed their curricula for five years and was a site administrator. In any other manual transmission, I have always slipped out of gear at stops. The apparent wear and issues with my Sport's gearbox input hub, and seeing how tiny the "throw-out bearing" actually is (!), has the Sport slipped into neutral at stops now. Whether bike or cage, it is advisable to "leave yourself an out" by not pulling up too closely to the vehicle ahead. Whether you can use that space depends on many factors, but largely our awareness to incoming threats (including those from behind). "Keep your head on a swivel. Don't lock your knees."

+1: be kind to your input hub and slip into N at stops with the clutch released. Learned this the hard way . . .

Even on a routine basis, these are really hard to turn. Some of us use ChannelLocks (slip-joint pliers) and some padding (like leather) to turn the things. MAybe drizzle something penetrating ("Ed'sRed!") and begin with gradual back and forth motions.