docc

True advice already posted. Regarding the pinch bolts and torque, reference my driveshaft failure experience. It is critical the threads of the shaft's yokes (or "collars") are all in perfect condition. I suggest new fasteners (pinch bolts), make sure they each thread in by hand to avoid any cross-threading which is destructive, use a thread locking compound, torque in steps and back and forth repeatedly between the two pinch bolts until both are secure. Applying a compression to the split yokes may be required to allow the fastener to line up truly with the threaded hole on the opposite side. After my failure, I took the risk of slightly increasing the torque. I cannot say this is best, just what I did over the worry of another failure. Apply "witness marks" and monitor for loosening for 400-500 miles/ 650-800 km.

Not sure about the wires, but early 5000 Ohm resistor caps were Champion while later V11 were NGK . . .

Taking responsibility for my own bike completes the circle for me. (repeat)

Wow, SFTripod, good on you taking such care of your Sport! Being mindful of the battery and charging parameters are good methods. Check out the "How to . . ." section as well as FAQ for methods that have been well derived by this amazing community over a considerable period of time. I love my little Stucchi bikini. Somehow, in my latest headlamp "LED bulb" change, and motivated by our member "Kane" , I left the Stucchi off and am really digging the nekkid thing . . .

Just groom the exhaust as described. Your right canister is twisted outward, clockwise (looking from the rear). A cozy grooming session, as Tomchri describes, will give some joy, mehopes . . . I use gentle mallets to bump things around while tightening fasteners step-wise in a "star pattern" while grooming the exhaust and hangers front->back (hammer content!)

Welcome SFTripod! I don't have a recollection of this product being applied to the V11. Do you have a link we could investigate the product further?

I have found so few parts at local US auto parts stores that include the V11 as an application reference. Many sensors and other components for the V11 cross reference nicely to same-period FIAT and Lancia, among others, that were not available in the USA.

I sourced front fork springs from Traxxion Dynamics, Georgia, USA and they were spot on. More recently, there has been some investigation into Andreani cartridges for our Marzocchi forks. Several sources for rear shocks. No matter what, and how many iterations it takes to get her "tuned" to your liking, you will be so glad you did!

+1 with Rolf, yeah, they are asymmetrical. Yet, as others have said, may a bit much in your case. worth loosening the entire exhaust from the heads, through the crossover's hangers, canister hangers, and attachments to the frame tabs and "grooming" the entire system, front to rear, to relieve stress and obtain a more optimal symmetry. Start at the heads and work in steps in a "star pattern."

Thanks for going to the trouble to put up your snaps, Locky! Looks like you managed to upload it directly to the V11 Forum, so yeah, that takes a good bit of reducing the size and such. It is likely now in your "Attachments" viewable in your profile. The Forum's "Gallery" is another way to post images, but still works better when images are hosted offsite. Curious who the "tech" is who helped you through email to get it done . . .

Best method is to use a hosting site like ImgZeit (my personal favorite for several reasons) and simply paste "Direct" in the post. https://imgzeit.com/

Not sure speedhut stores designs, but you can copy & paste my images on imgzeit to share with them. I really love the way they turned out! I just could not spring for a fourth Veglia speedo. Or a third Veglia tach . . . . Weatherproofing the Speedhuts, and installation, is a challenge, though . . . so far, so good . . .

+1 on Speedhut. They'll make the faces however you like. I spent some weeks, and some $$, getting them "just-so." I just could not not go for a fourth wagging, dimly lit Veglia speedo . . .

Yah, probably 500cc. Moto Guzzi made those from 1921 through the '70s! Left side has an exposed flywheel giving them the moniker "bacon slicer," a term I frankly find rather unbecoming. But not as disparaging as "pork chops" , which I find just ugly for our magnificent, even voluptuous, V11 Frame Side Plates.

I just scrolled 35 pages of ebayUS for ya, buddy. I think ya owe me a beer, already. Maybe Dramamine . . . Found a right side on page 19 that kept me goin' for a while longer. That's a seller in Florida with an 8700 mile 2001 Sport apart. I got a nice set of throttle bodies from them, but had to send the sketchy reardrive back. Professional outfit, though, and I found this after clicking on the right side listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-Rear-Left-Passenger-Foot-Peg/382918145903?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D60695%26meid%3D014b614a706f40ebb6193110965afb49%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dsb%26sd%3D382919774820%26itm%3D382918145903%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

The chin-pad is a vestigial structure that harkens back to the design inspiration for the V11 Sport, the 1949-51 Guzzi race bikes (Gambalunghino). In those days, the racers would "chin the tank" to get out of the wind for those few extra mph . . . My chin-pad is still in pretty decent shape after all this time. Not sure how to "restore" or maintain it (?)

I can say that, yes, SpineFrames and Tonti were made concurrently. Spines were the sporty end and Tonti the cruisers (EV/ California and all those iterations) . . .

"There is no greater satisfaction than to desire that which you already possess." That my Sport could be improved 3-5% is pretty likely, but probably not actually perceptible on my part. To get the 10-15% improvement that I could palpably notice would take some intense, and expensive, changes. Perhaps to the detriment of everyday ride-ability. I am unwilling to make that sacrifice. There is that point that I know I "should" pull the heads, "do" the valves (and guides). "Balance&Blueprint", polish the rods, and otherwise try to honor the original V7 Sport Telaio Rosso race bikes.

Ya think? Chuck's favored "flask" . . . ^^^^^^^^^

My Sport? In skimpy clothes? Avert yer eyes! Centauro would be easy to spot from the right side. They are 5 speeders . . .

Perhaps it is limiting for me, but I have long endeavored to be the poster child for, "Yes, you can make a relatively stock V11 run right. (Even with it's "flawed" mapping and various compromises.)" IMO, as factory Guzzi go, the V11 is already "hotrodded" . . .

Um, yeah, add gear oil through the upper fill point behind the speedo driver. BrakeKleen, and other solvents, will likely recover the mistake pouring oil into the clutch space. Removing the starter motor gives even better access to that space to clean it out.

I’ve long wondered why the tach says ITI but the speedo has that “Dur” logo. Any explanations?

How is that wear attributable to the “fooler” and not something like the oil change history or other factors?

If you’re confident of the TPS position and rest of the tune, you can easily braise the value of the CO in guzzidiag. Since 1500 is just barely off idle, this *may* be enough to compensate for the freer flow. Without an exhaust gas analyzer, we’re just winging it. I have seen values of +10 to +15 make just enough difference, though. Worth trying!