docc

So, no airbox lid at all? Just open top and what kind of filter? Have you baselined the TPS, at total closed right throttle plate, at 157 mV? Balanced the throttle bodies, how?

I'm not sure what's inside that forward facing projection, but is there still the original canister filter inside the sump? Only that, now, there is no access cover and the sump has to be dropped to change the actual oil filter? Sidestand attachment also had to be modified with no "sump spacer?"

All cool. Trying to figure out what the set-up is. I took the liberty of editing spelling on the original post. We're talking "Mistral", yeah? AFAIK, no one can tell whether there is a front cross-over or not. Unless it leaks, rattles, or falls off. (Yes, they can fall off! ) So, that's a pretty free-flowing exhaust. How is the intake set up? (stock air box, modified lid, gauze filter, "pods", etc.) ?

The challenge to fit this to your twin plate V11 is to obtain a gearbox input hub from one of the single plate V11 (Rosso Mandello, Scura, Tenni) that had (have) issues with thrie aluminum flywheel potentially cracking. There is, reportedly, mild fitting of the clutch pushrod. All very well documented here with reliable, experienced members willing to help. I had the privilege of pulling the lever on footgoose's V11 Tenni so equipped . . . buttered silk!

I mean CO at zero is better than way into the negative double digits, yah? Just trying to understand that the exhaust is "without crossover." "Full Mistral?" No matter what the set-up, my suggestion would be to perform a "Decent Tune-up" for starters . . .

You have no mid-point crossover and no front crossover at all?

The Bosch are good relays. I would still hope that they are being made outside of China, but that is increasingly rare. My Bosch never gave me any trouble and a couple of them are still blowing my FIAMM horns. The issue with the micro ISO relays is more a matter of ratings for Position#5 (and Position#2 in early V11). Even with "good" relays, and good contact, running any relay at or beyond its rating is a failure waiting to happen. Also, there have been considered opinions that some relays (Chinese made GEI, for example) should not be rated as high as they are. I recall member Rolf Halvorsen recently put by a stock High Current OMRON in Norway for sale. You can PM him and inquire. Otherwise, if it's a chilly night and, you have plenty of ale, Here is some "light reading" on how and why the OMRON High Current relay became a darling to some of us . . .

Also missing from that view is the regulator . . . Why not put horns elsewhere and complete the "slipstream" look?

I was going to liken it "likewise" to the V11 motor being the "best" Moto Guzzi has ever produced. Really, just my "favorite."

The Ford 351 Cleveland V8 is what made me a motor head. The torque, the way it came on the cam, the exhaust note. Holley, Edelbrock, Hooker Headers® (that's just fun to say!) . . . All of that seemed cool, but did not make the motor appreciably better. Some of it was detrimental. This all reminds me of not understanding fuel injection and, thinking the system was simply lean, winding up the TPS to "richen" the "mixture." This is, of course, flawed as the TPS has to index the throttle plate(s) to the ECU mapping. Done precisely, this makes a critical difference in performance.

Cleveland people . . . I knew I loved you guys! There are times the way the sport comes on reminds me of the 4bbl Cleveland in my '70 Cougar Eliminator. Some mysterious combination of factors just takes over . . .

Did I hear him "elderly Moto Guzzi" . . . ? I'm not sure how to take that after buying my Sport new . . .

I know the main, larger fastener is to be torqued to 75 NM and both the fasteners often get neglected. The V11 set-up, although very Rube Goldberg, is the easiest to use of the SpineFrame stands, but an Achille's Heal if the stand breaks the sump spacer. Is this the same configuration as the 1100 Sport-i wide sump?

After the suspension work on my Sport, which increased the rear ride height and spec'd the springs for my weight, my sidestand has never touched down again. @Pressureangle - How different is all the bracketry, or the stand itself, between the 1100 Sport-i and the V11? (AFAIK, all V11 stands are the same.)

Care to share your build dates, gentlemen? My March 2000 Sport has not faded.

That would be this very thread . . . Circuit breaker has been running three years, 14,000 miles/22.500 km. I routinely shut it off to isolate the regulator during external charging as instructed by my OEM regulator supplier.

Sweet looking Sport! Faded red frame sideplates were seen on very early V11. What is the build date on the headstock plate?

Seems Motormike's last visit here was last November. I seem to recall he sold his V11 . . .

Clamping surface seems to measure 53mm, but that may be what 54mm clip-ons clamp to? And the bars do look to measure 7/8". Or right around 22 and 1/4 mm if we want to mix fractional and metric a bit more . . .

The early Sports clipped on below the top triple with a riser. Perhaps an homage to the 70s V7 Sport's delicious "Goosenecks" . . .

My Sport yet perseveres. As do I, along with it . . . "Somedays I am the timber; somedays I am the Pontiac."

You know, there is a reason the "centerfold" was invented. Teasing with a tiny picture of something drop-dead gorgeous is . . . well, a tease . . .

Seems like a lot to me. My ShortFrame's triples are dropped 5mm, the rear raised "some." Would not want more. I remember making a café first year GoldWing (speaking of heavy, long slow steering bikes . . .) and dropping the triples about an inch/ 25mm. It made it feel awkward and ended up about 12mm (1/2"). Not sure that helps, but 30mm seems worth a fair dose of circumspect caution.

How much more would you have to raise them to mount clip-ons? I'm not sure how proud the Ballabio's are to begin with. Early Sports are flush.

So glad to see that you and Stelvio are friends, again.