docc

I had simply bent the bracket for the cable sleeve to get the straight(er) shot. I'd like to see your "lockwire" solution. The hidden damage at the bell crank is new to me. I dressed the cable and the offending, sharp edge and will keep a better eye on it. Thanks for the reassurance on the single broken wire.

Yes, sadly, all of our connector boots are part of the wiring harness assemblies.

Split 77 posts from the last 6 months into this dedicated topic from the "30 amp fuse failure " thread . . .

I am looking the last six pages of this thread and am investigating a dedicated thread for @LaGrasta's circumstance. Very challenging splitting these threads. Bear with me . . . edit: 77 posts, over six months, split to create a dedicated thread and challenge us to figure out @LaGrasta's circumstance:

While I long ago groomed this known cable impingement to make a straight shot at the bell crank out of the cable housing, I found a new impingement point today at the entrance to the bell crank, itself. There is a hidden edge in there cutting into the cable. Just relieved mine with some jewelers files and cleaned up the damaged cable, but will have to get a new cable on order . . .

Great topic! We all have our pet products by now. I just finished wiping down mySport in anticipation of the SSR XX in a few days. Cleaning a machine is a perfect way to get eyes and fingers on and around every surface for a chance of discovery (loose fastener, loose connector, bad wire routing, etc). For cleaner/polish, with a carnauba finish, I have long used RGS Labs FW1 FastWax. I was skeptical at first, but it has won me over for many years, now. Their glass cleaner checks out, as well. For hard plastics (not painted) and clear plastic lenses, Sumner Laboratories 210 plastic cleaner is amazing. Rubber? Why, Shin Etsu grease, of course! I used to replace my natural chamois every year, but switched to "artificial (PVA) chamois" many years ago. They harden stiff when dry, but are soft and supple when wet and resist thinning or tearing over many years of use. I'll have to look for that Motul Insect Remover . . .

I went deep into my notes and found SSR/One was July 9-11, 2004. Apparently, no photographic evidence has survived. (whew . . . There were four SpineFrames including @andy york's 2002 LeMans, a guy named "Jeff" on a LongFrame black Lemans, and someone my notes call "ballabio bill " . . . @Bill Hagan --> I left for SSR/One with 32,666 miles on mySport. Leaving for SSR XX with exactly 135,000 . . .

I am just going on record here that a SpineRaider that shows up in his truck (with tools ), but no SpineFrame , is still a SpineRaider . . .

The NWS is forecasting 40-50% rain chances in north Georgia Friday, highs mid-70ºF. Modeling, of course, gets better as we get closer (high resolution models come into range at about 48 hours out). Even those rain chances are sporadic through the day (not a "wash out"). Precisely where an AeroStich RoadCrafter comes into its own! Still early to etch forecasts in stone, but the Cherohala looks like a high of 62ºF at The Divide with a 40% rain chance. That'll be chilly at speed! Sunday looks cool and clear in the entire region. The kind of air that Goozzees live for!

The only time I had an OMRON failure it was caused by a bad regulator combined with one of the yellow wires breaking loose at the stator . . .

I love it that @Skip came to the Kentucky SpineRaid asking, "Show me how to do this ." Now he comes to the SSR and says, "Let's do this !" "Get There/ Bring Tools", indeed . . .

Ah! Someone who understands how bad it is (was) when The Creek rise (up) . . .

We can be certain it is nothing between us and Uranus.

I am going to seize upon the "may not" part of the phrase and still hold out hope . . . Otherwise, sir, you will be sorely missed!

"Y'all come, now! Ya hear?"

We're here to cheer ya up, buddy . . .

Thank you both for the correct contribution. Measuring the actual bolt cross references to @audiomick's link as 8mm x 1,25 thread pitch. The Workshop Manual lists this torque as 25-30 Nm. Original post corrected. My apologies and thank you, all, again for checking the posts here for correctness and accuracy!

Hmmm, I measured the holes in the yoke instead of the bolts, themselves. I will check my work when home in a few hours.... Thanks, @Tomchri!

Ah, yes the cardan shaft yokes should be clamped tightly (at both ends). The 6mm bolts are torqued 8-12 Nm. Correction: 8mm x 1,25 pitch/ torque spec is 25-30Nm. Because of the pinching action, go back and forth between the two until they are torqued the same since tightening one will loosen the other until they are finally the same.

It is hard to see, but is that input shaft movement in and out of the bevel drive or the driveshaft yoke moving on the input shaft?

In the same vein . . . somehow "breeding" could be involved!

The voice of experience! I turned the fan on high and dusted the interior of the cabinet through the top grill. Big cloud of dust! Taking the air hose to my tube amp, next . . . Thanks, @audiomick !

Good point that there is more than one problem at hand. +1 on testing/conditioning/or replacing the battery. While voltage could be "fine", yet the battery will not carry a load, 12.4 volts from an AGM battery is essentially "dead."

Admirable, those that can build their own amps! Speaking of which, I'm sad to see that PhotoBlockit has obstructed @Trevini's contributions to this thread . . .