docc

Welldone, man! For best results, mind your battery conditioning . . .

There is one on ebay in California from a forum member. Pretty sure he's in the middle of moving his household, so not sure the status of availability.

I looked in "Fileshare", but do not see them. I had few cut by my local vinyl sign maker some time ago. That was only used by MotoGuzzi on race bikes, AFAIK, from about 1949-1951. I so love the asymmetry. The "Art Deco" . . .

Along the brake vein, the (nearing) 114,000 mile Sport got a fresh rear rotor and Bridgestone T31 today (32nd rear tire!). Fresh Brembo pads to bed the new rotor. All clinical and torqued and LocTited . . . wheel bearings checked out. Klüber Staburags on the drive hub. Thanks, Josh!!

Yeah, if it was the rare, desirable Silver, there would be 1.

(Except for those deeply "in-the-know" that respect the V11 designer's basis for the V11 Sport: the Gambalunghino . . . then it will be the Silver desired above all others. By at least one enthusiast . . . )

That is wild!

Truly! Same for me for the 916 . . . might have missed my window as they cheaped-out . . .

Agreed, the early RedFrames differ. Even the rare Silveries and Blackies . . .

More likely just the wrong Marzocchi caps?

But our Marzocchi are adjustable. Later versions only for compression?

Brave new (Guzzi) world!

"Girl on a Lario" makes me think of Melissa Holbrook Pierson's enjoyable read, The Perfect Vehicle."

Heh, well mine was built a bit later (March 2000), but are there really 4-15 Greenies for every black or silver one?

Indeed so! "20 watts" = an amp and 2/3 (standard H4 are ~5 amps). Color is 6500 Kelvin "pure white". I may re-attach the frame ground and, eventually, the relays again (if I can build a more reliable set of connections/harness) depending on how my charging acts with this change, and if the 10 amp Fuse#5 can't take it. 2 1/2 years/ 10,000 miles is not bad service from the $30 LED unit. More reliable than the high-watt Sylvania SilverStars I tried for a few years (same money!) . . .

The actual, individual, LED of this unit are significantly larger than the $30US cheap unit, and the construction/materials look better. This one is about double the money ($64US). Might be a while before I can do a night test out on the actual roads, but the three foot pattern test looks like the Lo- still has a good cut-off and the Hi- has a more "gathered" or focused pattern. Makes me hopeful!

Alright, thanks for letting me have a little fun with that . . . the Sport in a party hat. I had to make some changes to make the self-contained "VintageCars" unit fit. The Bosch steel bucket of the Sport was too shallow to allow my connector. In addition, I have long run a battery positive with ATC circuit breaker and dedicated frame ground with 16 gauge wiring to two OMRON relays in the bucket for the Hi- and Lo-beams. The relays have wiggled loose a couple times over the years from my marginally-built relay harness. I took all that out and killed the feed (pulled the circuit breaker out). Yet, the factory 90º lamp connectors still would not quite let me close up the assembly (still too long). So, I angled the blades of the LED unit 90º . . . Now my headlamp current is back through (busy) Fuse#5 and (busy) Relay#2/NO contact (via Relay#1/NC contact). My thinking is that with the lower amperage draw of the LED headlamp along with the High Current GH8E OMRON relays, this will be fine. I'll leave the 10 amp fuse in position#5 (down from the factory 15 amp) and monitor outcomes. I can always go back to a 15 amp fuse. There has long been concern that the charging reference from Relay#2 is affected by removing the headlights from that circuit, so I'll have to watch my charge voltages. Expecting lower voltages, I just did a start-up and found higher voltages (maybe ~0.3v +/-) especially at low idle. Gonna be interesting to see if my longtime battery light flicker at idle after a hard run (battery voltage > charging voltage) changes.

Fun! Seems some others have done similar. Certainly, drawing the intake air from right above the exhaust side of the cylinder heads makes for rough running sitting in traffic in high ambient temps. Here is a bit of the fun I had bellmouthing my intakes . . .

The best airbox investigation has to be that of PhilA from 2006. Bellmouth those intakes, boys&girls!

The kind of reassembly I would trust to a steel reinforced epoxy like JB Weld . . .

Unexpected outcomes!

Looks like the cheap Chinee unit being referenced has burned out both its two Hi-beam LED (who knows, maybe something in the driver burned up. ) Switching to Hi-beam, actually dims the two Lo-LEDs (but keeps them on). This explains why the headlight dims when switching to Hi-beam and beam pattern does not change. Feeling totally dumb-@$$, I started with no eye protection and have the biggest green retinal washouts ever. After-which I used my welding hood. I tried to take some beam pictures in the shop, but the camera adjusts the light level and nothing can be discerned clearly.

And, finally, luhbo will give us more of his stunning images, again!

Right? Aircraft/ piloting analogies

So, yeah, open the album, open an individual image, and click "Copy Image Location" to paste into the post: