docc

The fairing looks very much Coppa Italia, but without the additional green stripe. Mounting hardware for that edition may be correct. Two bolts to the headlight sides and two brackets from the top windshield fasteners to the top triple clamps, typically. Gonna look sharp on JBBenson’s ‘01 Sport!

https://www.telegraaf.nl/video/127880588/motorrijder-leert-huilende-bestuurder-een-lesje

I love the textures, and shadows, and reflections, and colors in this image! How the arc of the raw, Sport clock-mount breaks the line of the brick . . . the glow of the hydraulic fluid in the California sun. Next to that incomparable Legnano Green . . . Brembo in the shadows . . .

Correct: LongFrame don't tank touch like the RedFrame and Rosso Mandello can.

Today, I was reminded how difficult it can be to Re-install a Deformed Fuel Tank. So, addendum: Or, 2):

Changing damping, even changing to cartridges, would not make up for incorrect spring rates or alter the preload, AFAIK. The only preload adjustment for the forks is the length of the internal spacers. When I got my Traxxion Dynamics springs, they nailed the preload length the first time.

Oh, and also we know that the typical SpineFrame Guzzi is weight biased to the rear 43/57 %. So, weighting the front with sag setting, spring selection, and correct preloads does a world of good. I ended up with the rear raised and triples dropped on the forks about 5mm. As Joey Dunlop once replied when asked how he could ride the way he did, "Arse ooop! Head dooon!"

Yeah, all the V11 have adjustable spring preload on the rear shock (forks are internal spacers), but it's hard to get to. I seem to recall it helps to take the airbox off (which means tank off). Then the Catch22 is, how do you set your sags without the weight of the tank and airbox? Also, realize, the original shock (and fork) springs are stupidly soft; a huge contributor to early reports of high speed weave on the RedFrame Sports. Plan on getting the right springs for your weight, gear, and style of riding. This pays MAJOR dividends! Unfortunately, the Marocchi damping is not so great. Guzzi Moto and others have done some cool internal things to make a difference. Otherwise, don't expect twisting around on the stock adjusters to make much difference. The change in damping is not linear. From Peter Verdone I learned that 50% of the "clicks" is 75% of the available damping (75% turned in can be up to 95% of the damping!). Suspension set-up, along with tire and tire pressure selection, transform these V11!

Yeah, bud, like Lowryter sez, "Just ride it" . . .

The tank had to come that (later model) Sport to fit handmade valve cover gaskets at a South'n Spine Raid a couple years back. That's what it took to get the stretched tank back on. There are other methods in case you don;t have that many enthusiasts when you need them . . . I like the way my Sport runs on Shell Nitro+, but it is up to 10% ethanol (at least here in the US south). Not letting the ethanol sit in the tank for long periods is part of the key. My understanding is that it not the ethanol, per se, but chemical complications (binary azeotropes) that form along with absorption of water that has an affinity for the ethanol. Our tanks are Nylon, so definitely hygroscopic (absorb water).

(Heh, more of this going on . . . "Hey! Hey, buddy! I got these springs you're gonna want . . ." )

Best image hosting site, ever, built by one of our members and someone I trust completely: imgzeit

There are those who have "dried out" their tank and to try and get it closer to its original shape. I really did not have any luck with that and I can't be sure drying it out might have damaged the internal tubing for the vent and overflow. When you remove your tank for the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist, be certain it is as empty as possible and have a plan for getting it back on . . .

Tank stretch from complications of ethanol in the fuel.

Hi,fubar guzzi! Connect the break out harness to the TPS by simply unplugging the connector and inserting the break out harness plugging it all back together. The violet/black wire is positive and the violet is negative. The yellow wire is not used for the measurement. Looking at Post#1, first image, you can see I put bullet connectors on the wire ends to make it easier to connect the alligator clips of the multimeter. Also, I used red and black heat shrink to mark the + and - . [edited the original post to reference the +/- connections. Thanks, fubar guzzi! ] Good luck, buddy! No doubt a well set TPS is crucial to these bikes running their best . . .

Right? Cannot wait to see those pics! That does not look like the first time some motorcycle has joined the Norwegian underground . . .

I have my first not-a-Pirelli to mount to the Sport (Bridgestone Battlax T31) since the '03 crash on those Michelins that I thought must have been made of greased glass. The Sport's fifty-fifth tire . . .

This whole "suspender" thing has gotten a bad rap . . . Yet, I'm pretty sure Bob Maynard may have been sorting "other" suspenders. The kind with preload and damping adjustments . . .

That seems like a pretty big "batch." Like every '02 and lots of '03 I've seen. Good question from the OP, how many '02 are out there with decent paint, still?

I am thinking the 2001 Rosso Mandello has different paint that preceded the problems with the '02/'03 ?

Removing the swingarm is not that difficult. You have to have a way to support the bike. (Remember to measure the standoff of the swingarm pins. Either relocate them on reassembly or choose another method to "locate/center" the swingarm within the FrameSidePlates. It will be much easier to remove, and carefully, replace the shaft pinch bolts. With the swingarm out, you can also see to other important things . . . [Not sure about the fit through the tunnel; never thought of doing it that way. Just seems really hard to get back together well that way.]

It also looks like it has the original electric petcock. More indication the bike has not been messed with . But needs to be!

The blue relay has been added as well as the accessory wiring. The battery has been changed (you can check for a date code on that to see how fresh it is). The ECU ground to the corner of the case is typically on the left front (by the positive battery terminal!), so may have been moved. Worth checking all connections for tightness and treat with Craig DeOxit. Overall, no major changes or big concerns showing up!

1) The "mix" of relays. It's not a bad thing that #5 looks larger, but I would replace them all with High Current OMRON (See "Best Relay" in How to . . .) 2) Not the OEM battery (Hawker Odyssey). Not sure what it is, but it should be given proper attention. The Odyssey PC545 have been known to give stellar performance.. 3) The "OBD" connector lying on top of the ECU should be tucked in back behind it so the seat does not make pressure down onto the ECU. no wiring should be against the ECU case except its main connector and its case ground. 4) The accessory wiring wrapped over the sub-frame tube should be groomed under it so that the seat will not crush it and possibly make a short.

Painted silver, and maybe even clear coated? I have damaged portions of mine (silver driveline finish) from road exposure, winter road salt, lime on the roads, indigenous chemistry (clutch fluid), and various attempts to clean off residue. But it never "bubbled off'" like the 2002/carry-over 2003 "wrinkle black" that just flakes off.