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Everything posted by docc
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That's a great question. It depends. The Panasonic (GEI, Tyco, Bosch, etc) are certainly not rated for the actual current draw on Relay#5/Fuel+Ignition. The trouble is using a 20 amp NO contact for a 22.5 amp draw. Turns out the NO contact (the higher amp rating of the two shown for any relay) is the limiting factor in Relay#2/Headlight+much more. (And, in early V11 harnesses, Relay#1/Starter's NC contact as well.) I've even seen trouble with lower rated (not "High Current") OMRON after sustained use. If, and as long as, you can source true, well made High Current 5-pin relays, it is well worth the trouble. The Panasonic are well made, but under rated for Position#5. Carry spares and learn the signs of relay failure
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onlinecomponents has sold all theirs?
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One member found these to be comparable to the High Current OMRON: Britax RM4-1235R high current relays. Or, what about getting them from Rolf Halvorson in Norway?
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I mean, check out the effort these PA cats have made!
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I would like to thank my Team. These rides are not easy. People say, "Did you have fun?" They will never understand there is so much more to this than "fun." There is excellence and quality. Camaraderie and teamwork . . .
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Generations known to one another . . . They deserve Paddock Space #1 . . .
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There was true mountain beauty to behold . . .
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And another awesome story that doslemans spotted an oil leak from a blown valve cover gasket, came back to The Lodge Paddock and swapped in a fresh one since he carries spares! "Are you frikkin' kiddin' me !?!?"
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Haha! I wondered who would spot that fractional combination wrench . . . On my last shakedown ride before this SpineRaid, I spotted it in the road next to my office and scooped it up as more of a talisman. You're awesome, Andy! Frikkin' so cool your V11 rolled 200.000 km on this SpineRaid. And that you were at SpineRaidOne with that same V11!
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Seems the Return of the Wrench necessitated a a special Practical Examination . . .
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How about a pic and some scoop on that "1134cc/90hp Moto Guzzi?"
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Absolutely awesome Fifteenth South'n Spine Raid! All-y'all are just amazing ! Looking forward to hearing everyone check in "home safe" . . . The Sport ran superbly, giving only various little quibbles to mess with me. But I am thinking I've got me wrench back after traveling over the Appalachian Divide and back. Twice! . . . arrive chiave!
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Oh, man . . . "plush gravel" is definitely an oxymoron!
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Aw, shucks . . . Seriously, everything I've posted about relays, and tune-up, and so many other things, are just complex issues that I learned the parameters and solutions from folks here, and other reliable sources, and made compilations that are (hopefully) easily searched and found. You guys deserve quality, searchable, and concise threads that keep these V11 on the road and safe.
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It is always worth repeating a "Decent Tune-up" after any changes. Yet, I would wager the stock cans really stuff up the works, especially compared to something fairly radical like MIVVs . . .
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Truth be told, I snuck in a podgy bar with a hammering face ground on. That made it past the Parc Fermé fence, but they were steadfast about, "NO RUSTY STAR PICKETS! NOT ONE!"
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Yes, #5 affects #4. The advantage to using "Form C" is they can be switched around into any position. Only Position #1 (Start) requires Form C/ 5-pin. You're on the right track, buddy!
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Also, PDBoulder, look at this temperature data. Others also listed some temperature data to see on that thread. Expect the last relay (#5) to run hotter as it is the coils, injectors, and fuel pump.
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hmmm, wait, I see the relays the PO provided are "1A7T" . . . not 1C7T? These four blade relays? If so, do not use in Position #1 (Start)/ at the front of the stack. This requires a five blade relay.
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Fourth day in Parc Fermé, one to go . . . then South'n SpineRaid bound! Hopes are high!
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Clean those connections (mounting block) with something like CRC Electronics Cleaner, and treat with "something like" Caig DeOxit®. (There is nothing like it.) Pull the relays straight out. Don't wind them around or you'll be repairing the tiny, flimsy connectors in the bases. Most importantly, install the GH8E in all positions, but especially #5.
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Some have found the handling improved. Lots of opinions that a 170 on a 4.5 inch rim was just done to get in on the wide tire craze. Same for the 180 on the 5.5. Also, you can look at the way the sidewall pinches in and affects the thread profile with the wider tires. So, the 160 (on the 4.5) has a “rounder”, more natural profile. As usual: YMMV, riding preferences differ, and no small furry animals were harmed making this post.
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After struggling mightily to get my Sport to run right after the last Decent Tune-up, I tracked down a series of contributors. As is common, so many issues are "multi-causal." I found a slightly flinky TPS and replaced it with a PF3C from cacycleworks. Spraying throttle body cleaner on the ends of the throttle plate shafts revealed a significant leak on the bottom left. I recommend this simple test for vacuum leaks when you tune-up, especially as these V11 get up in age and mileage. Check the shafts, rubber mounting boots to the intake manifolds, as well as the vacuum taps. I neglected this last step and later noticed discoloration around the left tap. Snugged up almost 1/4 turn! Also replaced the dried-out cracked rubber caps that have been on there for years. The difference in idle stability, popping and backfiring from that leak has been an amazement!