docc

That is a magnificent V11 and an amazing pile.

Looks to me like if you power the 5-pin NO Start Relay it will pull in Relay #2. So, back to making sure the Start Relay is switched.

First things first: upgrade to Best High Current Relays and condition the AGM battery properly. See pinned threads in "How to . . ." Then, there will be more . . .

Are those wire wheels tube type only? I've put some tubeless types back on the road with good plugging and a compressor, but patching tubes by the roadside is out of my pay grade . . . Especially with only a side stand . . .

This is such a fine, fine V11! And an amazing "pile" and provenance. Let us so hope it goes to another worthy steward as Surj has been. Continue your healing path, Surj, and stay in touch!

Four weeks out . . . I hear wrenches spinning, tires being mounted, and throttle bodies being synched . . . Let the hills ring with V11 music!

Reminds me Scud's thread a few years back:

I gave up on sourcing the Miruni Super Valkarn vulcanizing cement and sourced this instead (I presume it will work with the Maruni plugs):

What is the status on the LeMans now? Runs and rides?

Ah. Yeah, the inversion method works for those. I thought the poster was asking about blanking the holes left in the fairing.

But, don't LeMans mirrors mount to the fairing?

It's hidden on Page 42 of the Parts Catalogue: 17768750

I can't imagine I have any real expertise or tools that would be significant, but it would be great to get our two hi-milers together this weekend and compare throttle body notes . . . PM me if we can get a shot at a rendezvous . . .

I'm scratching my head, too, but your Scura start wiring differs from mine. Early V11 use the front two relays in conjunction. Early V11 require High Current relays in Positions #1 and #2 to function well. Later V11 take the start function through the Ignition Switch (classic Startus Interuptus). Why not just install a switched relay into what you have already done?

I'm thinking you are running power backward into the Ignition Switch through the NO contact of Relay#1 and it is grounding through the LOP light. My Sport has the earlier wiring through "Light" Relay#2, like LuckyPhil is asking about. Pretty sure you will need a switched relay to bypass the Ignition Switch to power #30 contact of the #1 Starter Relay since its NO contact is continuous with the Ignition Switch.

There is no such thing as too much Vaseline® . . .

Did you baseline the TPS at 157mv with the right throttle plate completely closed?

Hmmm, you're not still using the $2.10 relays because the very best relays are a whopping $3.47?

You pulled the power from Fuse #3? That is the charging circuit from the regulator (the nefarious melting 30 amp fuse). What was wrong with just pulling power directly from the battery?

Yep, pretty sure: 3mm hex drive ("Allen key"). I keep one onboard for my TPS fasteners and a 2.5mm for the idle stop screw. I have one those folding sets of hex keys, but they are often impossible to get into tight places.

The throttle plates need to be held open 3.2-3.6º to idle. (Or something near that. But won't likely idle with the plates entirely closed in the bores.)

I gots a fine Triplett DVOM and a TPS break-out harness . . . and striking distance to your digs . . .

Good stuff! Because the TPS is driven from the right throttle body, and that indexes the throttle opening(s) to the ECU / "map", setting the TPS baseline (157 mV) needs doing before "balancing"?

They took a fair share of fussing & fiddling, but well worth it, IMO . . .

10,000 miles/ 16.000 km (over two years) on my custom SpeedHut now. My three white-face Veglia speedometers each went about 26,000-30,000 miles , so the jury is still out, but I love them!