docc

Yeah, I even tried running with the fuse block lid off. No joy. That is a hard area to ventilate on the V11 without flowing in road-crap and weather-scuz. Honda VFR guys learned to use computer hard-drive fans to cool their regulators. Is that what we have come to? Turn the left side of the V11 into a Testarossa, of sorts? Or just go total Jim Hall/ Chapparal . . .

Here ya go, buddy: The factory "mini" fuse is pretty awful about heat damage. My ordeal chronicled here:

Under the seat on left, back; third from the front. Stand by for pics and links . . .

How many went out?

Yep, if the original Poster (OP) deletes the original post, the thread is gone.

Other than cleaning this throttle body/injector rack with copious amounts of throttle body cleaner, I did not intend to service them further. They are from an 8700 mile crashed Greenie V11. I have heard the fasteners anchoring the cross rails are Red-Loctite nightmares. Maybe not so bad on the bench, but to pull my long-time left-side throttle body on the bike? Not sure about that . . . Also not sure why Andy York has decided to address his throttle bodies at this point?

Pics of that entire stable, I hope!

Hmmm . . . "Two is a coincidence, three is a collection."

How many Nortons does that make for you?

Hey, brenwin! Good to see you around! 1) Yep, the VIN and engine numbers have no relation to one another. 2) You could try uploading images to your Gallery and link them to your post from there, but it is best to use an outside hosting service. Folks use flickr, smugmug, and others. I prefer imgzeit which was developed and is maintained by one of our members, v7cafe (my son, so I trust him!). Have a look at the tour. It is a really clean app and priced well with no add-ons, ads, or tracking. Another shameless plug for imgzeit, I know, but it really is worth checking out.

My Sport is totally a product of this community, V11LeMans.com. I am so grateful for all of you. As this thread comes together, I hope to add it to the "How to . . ." for best access as other V11 come into range for the throttle bodies needing attention. Mine were replaced under warranty (entire rail with injectors and TPS) because they would drip. My excellent dealer told me they do that if you pressurize the system briefly and shut it off. And he was totally right! I was doing this continually: start up the Sport for someone (or just me! ) to listen to the idle and rap the throttle a few times. Their method was to crab the spineframe to change the throttle body rail, which ain't too bad unless you have added the fussy center frame brace, as I have. Andy York mentioned he intends to loose the left side throttle body and slide the racks out and in. I would like to know more about that. Also, I recall others who have sealed (O-ringed) and rebushed their shafts. I hope to get those references here as well. Thanks, again, to all!

What with some miles/km rolling up on these lovelies, I thought it time for a dedicated throttle body thread. At ~112,000 miles, I'm having a tough time getting the Sport to idle and balance. The lower shaft on the left no longer seals and the linkage is quite loose on the right. I have replacement rack to install, then noticed another hi-miler (Andy York's LeMans) has a replacement set ready to go . . . So, let's share some insights and methods for the care and feeding of our throttle bodies . . .

500 mile inspection after the new spacers, new wheel bearings, and replacement reardrive (including moving the shaft to the pinion). With the exception of a little excess Klüber Staburags grease to wipe off from the drive hub, all bearings are smooth with no lateral play, no signs of gear oil, no pinion play what-so-ever, shaft witness marks spot on, no metal on the drain plug. Discarding the "flush" oil (50:50 Redline SP/LW and 70-90 Mob1) and refilling with straight RLSP/LW. Eight weeks to the South'n Spine Raid . . .

My, but you have absolutely come to the right place, Sir!

Those are kewl! Never seen anything like that. Pretty sure my failure was a combination of my failing to torque pinch bolts correctly (go back and forth between them and not just once per side), not torquing to the higher side of the range (instead of the middle), and reusing fasteners that had been crossed and the threads chased. Is it possible that excessive pinion play may have contributed to rattling them loose? Testing in process, as I have moved the back of the shaft to another reardrive almost 400 miles ago. I must have clicked the torque wrench back and forth between those bolts twenty times! (Trying to earn my back . . . )

@Andy - Can the throttle bodies be swapped without crabbing the frame slightly? (That's way we did it when these were changed under warranty at the dealer.)

The Dodge Superbird is unmistakable, but do I spy a black ‘69 Mercury Cougar Eliminator?

Aw! Pretty sure I’ll have to earn it back. SSR is 700-800 miles round trip, so that will tell the tale. I’d like to get about a thousand miles on this rear drive and new bearings before then. Also due for Tank Off Maintenance. Not sure if I’ll tackle the throttle body/ injector swap as well. . .

Yeah, well, I've been burning old gear oil, and ringing polished tools together . . . If I make this one, I would like my Wrench emoji back . . .

I don't have experience running the later tanks sputtered-out like I have my 2000 Sport tank. Yet the pick up (petcock) location and saddle shape should lend it to a similar fuel trap on the right and similar "tip-slosh" roadside assistance method, I would think. When does the light come on in an internal pump/filter V11 tank? And how much accessible fuel remains? Good questions . . .

Yep. Just likely NLA. Who knows, might as well ask, right? I'm just hoping we can help sort Airtight Garage's issue without him having to replace the wheel/ hub . . .

@sp838, I misread your question. That thread speaks to how much fuel may be trapped in (early) tanks as they sputter out. Ignoring the trapped fuel, it is common for low fuel lights to come on with about 0.8 +/- 0.1 US gallons available while riding level ground at steady throttle and not leaning. Riding downhill, leaning right, braking, or going light on the throttle (pitching forward) all may contribute to starving the left side/rear mounted petcock. Hence why, in the event you sputter out, a "deep tip-slosh to the left may give you enough fuel to get down the road a piece. Don't be timid with the throttle trying to conserve fuel. That just returns it to the right side trap.

Hey, so, pretty sure anyone can hover on the poster's username and see the last time they visited. In this case: August 2015. So, with only 7 posts, santiagoc may be well out of the loop. (I mean, it doesn't hurt to ask!) Good luck on the bearing issue, A-G/Chuck. I just went through an ordeal sorting mine (well, I hope it is sorted! )

These bearings can fail for other reasons common to the V11 . . . (worth checking before replacing the wheel) . . .

Seems it’s mounting has been altered and is no longer mechanically adjustable.