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Affectionately referred to a the "monkey paw trap", early V11 were a two piece affair with the mounting ring and a soft internal pouch. Later V11 are one hard plastic piece. The early part, "Document holder" 01479630 Starting in 2002, later V11 one piece hard shell is also called "Document Holder" 01479660 Because the tail sections also changed, I am not certain that the Document Holders interchange between tail sections ("rear fairing).

Ten weeks out, to the Fifteenth South'n Spine Raid, and I'm so trying see that the Sport is properly prepared. [ Insert Waving-Wrench emoji that I currently am not allowed post ] If today's shakedown ride is any indication, I'm going to sprain my face grinning in my helmet! Cannot wait to see everyone!

Maybe you would rest better using the "hose clamp" stop method to anchor your filter and drop the sump every filter change? I don't love it, but some do.

Do you you know what brand/ year of the filter that came loose? Early UFI? (faulty gaskets). Someone put it on "finger tight?" (Bad method for the V11 !/ tighten 1 1/8 turns past the gasket contact) A "quality" filter, properly tightened will not walk off. I say this after my twenty+ (5,000 mile) oil changes . . . YMMV!

Yeah, a "LazyBoy" with an overhead cam flat six . . .

All good thinking and good questions. How about a dedicated thread in 24/7 V11 to get you as ready as possible?

From the peanut gallery, I have to say how much I admire, and so appreciate, this fabulously detailed thread and all of the discussion. At this point in my V11's service life, it is good to know that the original oil pump is decently reliable. It is awesome to see (and hear!) a gear driven cam, but also consider the tensioner upgrades for my chain. After all, I might have to tear into this old donk sometime in the next 111,000 miles . . .

Fly&ride! That's exciting stuff. No way would I do that on a V11 without installing a full set of High Current Relays and testing the battery. Simple stuff, really. Unless you're in a parking lot or roadside somewhere . . .

Hi, Jan! Seems AndyH has not dropped in for a few years. Check out this thread that details a very method to make an insulated fuel line for the V11: How to Make a Fuel Supply Line - for External Pump

120 Nm rear/ 90 Nm front From the Workshop Manual.

So far, I am not surprised by who is admitting to being on the Nut Side . . . That said, I did wind the axle in from the drive side in the hopes of releasing any "lateral loads" along that busy axle. One can hope . . .

I, too, am back to the nut side. (Some would say I never left . . . )

And from which side?

The last order they filled for me was within a month of closing and the nice fellow told me they hoped to regroup and reopen this summer. I hope it works out, but nothing will ever be the "old" MI with Dave and Greg. I had always called them "my local Moto Guzzi dealer in Seattle, Washington." (they're a thousand miles from me) . . .

I've beat this next drum before, but here it comes again. On our V11, the outboard needle cage and its inner race get neglected. It is trapped in the "nose" of the reardrive next the the right arm of the swingarm. It only rotates the arc of movement of the swingarm and does not "spin." Since it not exposed when the wheel is pulled, say for a tire change or brake service, it often goes unseen until it gets ugly. If moisture and wetness and nastiness is allowed to enter there (and it will), this will ruin the sealing on the crown wheel of your reardrive. Read: Very Bad. Anytime the rear wheel comes off, for whatever reason, pull the axle far enough to service this critical part! Clean and liberally grease with waterproof grease (the needle cage, inner race, and cap washer). Every time. Here is some more support for this encouragement: L->R / lower row: > 50,000 mile unserviced/ruined race from a northern US state that ruined the reardrive. > 14,000 mile from coastal California, USA, that was rusted along with the needle cage. Even polished up with 600 grit, damage remains. > My original 111,000 mile race with obvious indentations from the needles. > New (and surprisingly smooth and shiny!) inner race. Grease that outboard reardrive junction with your swingarms, please!

As I have said, the V11 has a busy rear axle. L-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------> R: locknut-washer/swingarm/caliper carrier/brake side wheel bearing/wheel spacer/driveside wheel bearing/inner spacer/reardrive carrier bearing/reardrive/needle cage-race/right side swingarm/torque side of the axle

The new "inner spacer" (the short one between the drive side wheel bearing and the reardrive carrier bearing) is ~0.002" shorter than my original. The outboard race for the needle cage (in the right side of the reardrive next to the swingarm) is ~0.001" longer than my original. I'm thinking these are within tolerance (?) and I'll install all the new parts I can.

My original (short) spacer has the two notches, but the new one does not. I suppose I can keep the collars and it will force me to get a proper bearing removal tool set.

Yessir. You can see the (new) 113mm spacer still has them and my original 112mm spacer does not. It is fiddly to slip the axle through with the spacer loose, but very difficult to drift the bearings out with the spacer locked to the center. The collars fit so loosely in the bore of the hub (3mm gap), I can't imagine they are needed. Perhaps they are an assembly expedient, only?

So, keep the centering collars? They are important, perhaps?

So, in the hopes of getting this right (this time), I have some things to report along with lingering concerns . . . For certain, the new spacer checks out (113mm), while the original is 112mm. It also has the centering collars, while mine were removed early on the make the bearings easy to drift out. I've been advised to cease-and-desist the drifting and only use a proper set of bearing pullers. Good, professional advice from Josh, as always. In that case, keep the centering collars when the spacer is installed in the wheel?

So, they are 5mm but the pitch is fine: 0.8 mm The stand-off is 20mm long from the tach case, then 8mm of threads (28mm overall). The hexagonal "stand-off" is female threaded at its base and screws onto (loosely fitting) studs that come from inside the case. While you may be able to unscrew the stand-offs, it is common for the studs to get loose and just spin. Mine are JBWelded.

My last Veglia is on display at home- I’ll get some dimensions this evening. (Pretty sure they are M5x0.9mm thread pitch.)

Yessir. Just not sure why these bearings only went 600 miles while others have lasted 20,000-40,000 miles. The inner races of the suspect SKF do look "thin" and rather underbuilt. Perhaps, just enough not to tolerate the undersized spacer. All of my spacers and bearings arrived yesterday, so I'm in the process of completing the analysis and staging the reassembly . . . Good news: the replacement wheel bearing spacer is the correct 113 mm !

"She" is the cover darling of Ian Falloon's The Moto Guzzi Story: